Engine overheats

Tiny
DAVE166
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 DODGE NEON
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 197,000 MILES
My car runs grate as long as the ambint air temp. Stays below 60 or 70 deg. F. When the temp. Gets hotter than 70 deg. F it will run15 to 20 miles and it will shut of. I cost to to the side of the road and take a 20 min nap and it will start up and run fine till it gets to hot and it stals and so no. Its not over heating. Ferther more I changed the compleat motor all sensors inc. The puoublum is still their. I all so changed the coumputer.I have a spair parts car. Any imput would be gratly appreashed. Is a grate winter car lol.
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Tuesday, April 13th, 2010 AT 7:12 PM

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Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Next time hot or cold when it refuses to start don't wait do below immediately to determine if its fuel or spark problem.

This guide can help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-overheating-or-running-hot

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine atleast 3/16 away from ground-have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it
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Thursday, April 15th, 2010 AT 11:46 AM
Tiny
TOMMYX
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 DODGE NEON
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 163,000 MILES
My overflow tank on my neon boils water out of its self my car overheats I have replaced the radiator thermostate and temp sensor what could be making my car overheat?
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Monday, October 29th, 2018 AT 11:01 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Feel the coolant in the reservoir. You'll probably find it's not hot and not boiling. It's likely air bubbles from a defective head gasket.
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Monday, October 29th, 2018 AT 11:01 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BLUESMOKE662
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 DODGE NEON
  • 150,000 MILES
OK, so I've been browsing forums in hopes I could find someone else having the sameproblem. Well finally I did! Thank god I'm not the only one, cause this is literally driving me nuts. I've had this 1998 Dodge Neon R/T now for about 3 months and haven't had a problem besides changing the rear brakes and rotors, plugs and wires and an alternator. Runs pretty decent up until about a week ago just about.

It all started when I was heading back home from my parents (10 miles)! The car was fine until I got on the highway and I noticed that after a few minutes of doing about 70 MPH the temp gauge started to rise a little, hesitated, then JUMPED up to the HOT mark (not all the way, just enough to sound the alarm) so I hurried up and pulled over freaking out. Stopped on the side of the highway a little confused at the time (given I live in Indiana and the temp was about 30 degrees AND my fan is wired with toggle switch by previous owner) so with my fan RUNNING and me going 70 MPH on the highway, I couldn't understand for the life of me why this car was saying it was overheating. Stopped it went back to its normal spot (Temp Gauge) so I figured, OK, maybe my cluster is just messed up. Start driving again and it waits about a min or so then gauge rises up fast and sounds the alarm until I depress the clutch while moving and the gauge will go down slightly until I reengage the tranny. I made it home with the car after stopping a few times and cruising pretty much in neutral until I needed to actually DRIVE. I checked everything and seemed fine. Full of coolant, no boiling or gurgling or anything. Engine felt normal temp it should be. The next day, I go to advance auto and tell them my problem. I end up buying a thermostat and the coolant temp sensor (which also controls the gauge in cluster) had to argue with the guy about it, but after doing that (replacing thermo and temp sensor) it was STILL doing the same stuff. I ended up going to that damn parts store about 6 times that day. Finally, on the last visit they go on to all agree that my cluster is going out and causing the temo gauge to whack out! I kinda possibly believed it could be the problem giving that the cluster itself was replaced when I got it cause the speed wasn't working. And every now and then, if I hit a bump the whole cluster would shut off until I smacked it then come back. Or there would be times when the air bag light would come on and shut off like when you first start the car. And lastly, sometimes when making turns my OIL light will come on and then shut off!

Well needless to say, I went to the junkyard the next day and got another cluster. Everything worked fine, until I drove about 5 mins and there goes my temo gauge JUMPING up to HOT and sounding the alarm until I stop. So at that point I'm thinking it definately cannot be this cluster too! Took it back to the house (also the oil light thing happens with thus one too sometimes on turns, confusing) and checked my fkuid and everything again still don't understand. I went back to parts store and they asked me about my radiator cap which isn't actually on the radiator but over the thermostat housing. The cap did end up being very poorly sealed. It was cracked around the rubber and whatnot so I replace the cap. The guy precedes to tell me that it sounds like air got into the system and that itnshoukd work its way out in about a day or so. NOPE! I even ran it for like 15 mins with the cap off from cold start and watched the fluid rise up after warming and overflowed little bit to try and get the air out. Still overheating while driving and my heat is hot just like it always has been. The only thing I can think of is maybe I POSSIBLY didn't align the thermostat right when putting the new one in. But I looked at the old one first before anything to make sure it was right. Also, the bottom radiator hose is not hot at all not even warm when the car is at normal temp. So there is a circulation problem, but I don't understand if if it could be the Radiator or that bottom hose or even possibly the water pump. Like I said, my heat comes out great like always, but that bottom hose not being warm and the top one being hot as hell, tells me there is a circulation problem.

If anyone can help PLEASE. Just need some actual expert advice or a shove in the right direction. Thanks

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Monday, October 29th, 2018 AT 11:01 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
Disconnect your fans when it gets hot and feel radiator. If there are any cold spots the rad is bad. It should feel the same temp all over. Also you might have them check temp of the upper hose when you stop with one of those temp gauges that read temps by pointing at it. It may be an electrical issue and not what you think it is.
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Monday, October 29th, 2018 AT 11:01 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RANDOMUSER
  • MEMBER
This is an old post so I'm sure you've already figured the answer out, but I ran into this problem a few years back and couldn't find any answers so I figured I'd try and help someone out. It ended up being my radiator hoses that needed to be replaced. They were getting weak and collapsing under the pressure of higher speeds. Then when I slowed down, the pressure would decrease and the hoses would expand again, letting the coolant flow normally. Changed upper and lower hoses and haven't had a problem since. But it took a coolant flush, new thermostat, new temperature sensor, numerous mechanics and hours of googling to figure it out.
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+1
Monday, October 29th, 2018 AT 11:02 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RAY7007
  • MEMBER
Had same problem turned out to be the water pump. Blades not turning when engine running but pulley turning. Hot when driving but would cool down when idling. 2006 caravan 3.3 engine. First time to experience this type of problem and this type of water pump failure.
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-1
Monday, October 29th, 2018 AT 11:02 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN
  • ADMIN
Great addition to this thread! Please feel free to help out whenever you are on the site :)

Cheers, Ken
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Monday, October 29th, 2018 AT 11:02 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TODD 1975
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 DODGE NEON
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 100,000 MILES
98 dodge neon overheats form time to time. What are the posibilty to could be causing this to happen? Topped off coolant on 4-9-11
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Monday, October 29th, 2018 AT 11:02 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
If the coolant was actually low, you might suspect a leaking head gasket. If the overheating only occurs when driving at slow speeds, the radiator fan might not be turning on. The fan relay is an electronic module with a high failure rate. It is half way down on the driver's side of the radiator support. The two mounting bolts were known to break. The module will overheat and short if it is not bolted to the body for cooling.
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Monday, October 29th, 2018 AT 11:02 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RICKBOUCHARD
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 DODGE NEON
  • 165,400 MILES
Engine: 2.0 SOHC, Automatic tranny, NO A/C.
Let me start off by saying that I have already changed the thermostat, the solidstate fan relay, and the coolant temperature sensor.
The car starts out normal. The dash temp. Gauge rises to about one third of the way to hot ( where it always was ). I can drive a few miles and everything is OK, but every time I go 20 or more miles the gauge will shoot up in a heartbeat and the alarm goes off. Sometimes the gauge drops back down ( part way at least) for a while ( a few miles) but will jump back up without warning. The coolant gets super hot and boils out of the overflow.
The radiator fan comes on in the driveway when it gets hot enough. I have a turbo muffler (loud) so I can't always tell if the fan comes on while I am driving. I remember the fan used to stay on even if you turned off the motor when it was real hot but it does not do it now. All the fuses on the side of the dash are good, as well as the ones in the box by the battery. Could the radiator fan motor be going ( work sometimes, othertimes not )? Someone told me they think it could be a blockage in the radiator. Possible?
PLEASE HELP! I've been out of work for almost a year and need my car to secure a job. Unemployment checks are about to run out. I have had 3 second interviews in the last week but won't be able to take one of the jobs if offered because they are all 30 plus miles away! The car will not make it that far! Please help A.S.A.P. I don't know what to do.
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Monday, October 29th, 2018 AT 11:02 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
When it gets hot unplug fans so they won't start with key off then feel radiator all over if you feel any cold spots the radiator is bad. Then get it pressure checked for a head/intake gasket leak
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Monday, October 29th, 2018 AT 11:02 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • EXPERT
Hi there,

Thank you for the donation.

Check that the cooling fans are turning on as is the A/c condenser fan with the A/C, you say you cleaned the radiator, you may still have a number of blocked cores, this radiator should be flow tested by a radiator shop to ensure that it is totally clear internally and also get the pressure cap checked and ensure that the system is pressure tested as well.

Mark (mhpautos)
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Monday, October 29th, 2018 AT 11:02 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SKORPIOZE
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 DODGE NEON
Engine Cooling problem
1995 Dodge Neon 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 190. miles

symptoms:
* dash indicator shows engine hot.
* may be a leak beside timing belt.
not sure if it is overfill.
*replaced the thermastat twice.
* resevoir constantly needing refill.
*both fans work.
* no heat inside car,when you put on heater to offset heat.
* cannot smell any odor from floor of passenger side.
* no smoke or fluid coming from tail pipe exhaust.
* did not start once, though it does now.
* gurgle sounds from the pipes?or rad? when shut off car..hear after 10 secs or so of shutting off motor.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/214308_jessica_posing_wit_my_car_1.jpg

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Monday, October 29th, 2018 AT 11:02 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Try bleeding the cooling system and check the water pump and for clogged-up radiator

BLEEDING COOLING SYSTEM
Always bleed air from cooling system after replacing coolant. Set heater for maximum heat. Remove radiator cap. Loosen drain plug and remove drain bolt (if equipped) from engine block. Drain coolant reservoir. Fill coolant reservoir to MAX mark with 50/50 water-coolant mixture. Loosen bleed bolt and fill radiator up to base of filler neck. Close bleed bolt when coolant flows out without bubbles. Tighten bleed bolt. With radiator cap removed, start and operate engine to normal operating temperature. Add coolant if necessary and check for leaks.

One way to test for a bad water pump is to squeeze the upper radiator hose when the engine is hot and idling. Careful, because the hose will be HOT! If you do not feel much coolant circulating through the hose when you rev the engine, the pump may be bad. The other cause might be a bad thermostat that is not opening properly (remove and inspect the thermostat), or a clogged radiator.
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Monday, October 29th, 2018 AT 11:02 AM (Merged)
Tiny
AMBY_18
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 DODGE NEON
1998 Dodge Neon 4 cyl Automatic

I Have had my 1998 dodge neon since january, I only go to school, pick up my sister from work and other small places like the grocery store which are all in the same area. However, a couple weeks ago my car got hot and I took it to an emergency mechanic and he gave me a new thermostat. Then I took it to my original mechanic about a week later and he said to take the thermostat off. My car recently got hot again and I sat for 20 mins to let it cool down and then I went home. I had a friend who is certified in mechanics take a look at it and he said that my water pump was leaking, and that same day my service engine soon light came on. What is wrong with my car? And what do I need to do to get it fixed?
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Monday, October 29th, 2018 AT 11:02 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Have the computer scanned for code/s-you have a problem within the engine management system that caused the CEL to turn on-This is your starting point of diagnosis, finding out what's going on.
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Monday, October 29th, 2018 AT 11:02 AM (Merged)
Tiny
WES1
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 DODGE NEON
Engine Cooling problem
1997 Dodge Neon 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 200+k miles

Engine is running hot every few days. Radiator fan is working but I don't have an ac so I quess the condender fan isn't. Have never noticed it running. Replaced radiator cap supports 16 psi and thermostat. After I notice it starts running hot and leaking water I can't find where it is leaking from? I don't know if it is coming out of the reservoir or some where else? When running the engine with radiator cap off air is bubbling in the coolant? Is this a sign of a blown head gasket, cracked head or is it just air traped in the system? No coolant in oil or visa versa. Slight wetish mist coming out of tailpipe and just a little whitish smoke. Any advice on what I could try next would be greatly appreciated. I don't have enough money to take it to a repair shop and this is my only vehicle. Thanks!
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Monday, October 29th, 2018 AT 11:02 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Get it block and pressure tested-if it passes both tests try bleeding the cooling system
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Monday, October 29th, 2018 AT 11:02 AM (Merged)
Tiny
GO_GETTA88
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 DODGE NEON
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 170,000 MILES
My 1995 Dodge Neon has recently been having overheating problems. I sealed the leaks in the radiator, replaced the thermostat (I think the old one was still operable), replaced the housing, added oil, repaired the radiator fan, and the coolant reservoir is full, but within minutes my car has overheated everytime I've went for a test drive. As far as I know the water pump isn't leaking either. I'm also hoping not to have to spend much more money as I am on a budget. What should I do next?
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Monday, October 29th, 2018 AT 11:02 AM (Merged)

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