1998 Dodge Dakota Starting problems

Tiny
CARLOP
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 DODGE DAKOTA
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 92,000 MILES
I have a 1998 dodge dakota V8, and recently has had issues trying to start. You have to hold the gas pedal for it to start running, then if u give it gas, the RPMS drop and it stalls. Reading message boards, I have changed the spark plugs, TPS sensor and IAC sensor. But to no avail. Is there anything else I could look for? Thanks.
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Monday, April 27th, 2009 AT 3:23 PM

7 Replies

Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • EXPERT
Hello,

Is your engine light on? If so have vehicle scanned for codes and post....

If no engine light check Fuel Pressure and Regulator...

Chekc out the link below for video on testing....

http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_video/test_fuel_injection_pressure.htm

.
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Monday, April 27th, 2009 AT 3:39 PM
Tiny
CARLOP
  • MEMBER
Hi again. Alright, I checked with the tool and nothing came up. I bought a pressure gauge to check that, and everything is good there. This morning was very cool out, and the truck started right up, like it was brand new. So the issues happen when its hot out. Could it be corrosion or something on the wires? Could it be the MAP sensor at all?
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Wednesday, April 29th, 2009 AT 9:35 AM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Was the battery disconnected or died recently? If it was, minimum throttle must be relearned by the engine computer. Until this is done, the computer doesn't know when you have your foot on the gas pedal and when it must be in control of idle speed.

It knows your foot is off the pedal when you're coasting. The strategy it uses is higher than normal manifold vacuum for seven seconds. High vacuum will occur if you snap the throttle open and closed real fast, but not for seven seconds. You have to coast down from highway speed for the high vacuum to occur for seven seconds or longer.

When these conditions are met, the engine computer looks at the voltage from the throttle position sensor and puts that in memory. The next time it sees that same value, it knows it has to control idle speed.

Most technicians will perform a test drive specifically to prevent this customer complaint after doing any work that requires disconnecting the battery.

Drive on the highway, then coast for seven seconds without touching the brake or gas pedals.

There should also be an idle "flare-up" when you start the engine. If it doesn't run up to about 1500 rpm when you start it, there could be a problem with the idle speed motor or its air passage could be plugged with carbon.

Caradiodoc
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Thursday, April 30th, 2009 AT 2:02 AM
Tiny
CARLOP
  • MEMBER
Yes, the battery was dead over the winter, and we just changed it not that long ago.

Once we get it running, it idles about 1200rpms, then u press the gas, it idles down and turns off. Same thing if you put it into gear.

The TPS, IAC and SPark plugs are all brand new.
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Thursday, April 30th, 2009 AT 5:49 AM
Tiny
CARLOP
  • MEMBER
We tried to do the Re-Learn process, but it runs awesome when it is cold out. But once the motor warms up, if you turn it off, then try to restart, it wont kick over until u hold your foot on the gas. Even then the RPMS drop down and doesnt want to start. :(
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Thursday, April 30th, 2009 AT 9:13 AM
Tiny
CARLOP
  • MEMBER
Whaaa HOOOO! Finally fixed the problem today. Went and bought a Haynes repair manual, because we found a corroded wire. Turned out to be the ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR. It was hard to find, tucked away. Once we changed that. New part was $17.00. Runs like brand new!
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Monday, May 4th, 2009 AT 3:18 PM
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • EXPERT
Congrats on the find and fix.
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Thursday, May 7th, 2009 AT 10:04 AM

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