Cranks, No Start, Groan Under Dash Right After

Tiny
JUANEMMANUEL
  • MEMBER
  • 1993 BUICK LESABRE
  • 3.8L
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 157,700 MILES
This is the first time this is happens on my 93 Lesabre. I turn the key, it cranks, it doesn't start, and RIGHT after the crank, it made a noise that sounded like a groan coming from below and behind the dashboard. I cranked it again, and it did the exact same thing. No start, and it groaned right after. On the third attempt, it finally started. I have noticed that lately it's been hesitating a little before actually starting when I turn the key. But this is the first time it makes a groan right after not starting and it concerns me. Starter was replaced a few months ago. Any tips are appreciated.
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Thursday, September 8th, 2016 AT 5:52 PM

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Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
Reckon the "groan" is the starter teeth grinding and not engaging to the flywheel?

If so, The starter might require "shims" ($5 or less at the auto parts store) to space it out a little from the flywheel.

This will let the starter drive push into and mesh with the flywheel teeth, instead of hitting the flywheel face and just spinning.

Let us know what you get all figgered out!

The Medic
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Thursday, September 8th, 2016 AT 8:14 PM
Tiny
JUANEMMANUEL
  • MEMBER
Ok but in this case what size and shape should the shims be? And where exactly should they be placed? How are they secured?
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Friday, September 9th, 2016 AT 11:46 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
Gonna show you a bunch of different shims in a minute.

Right now,

My 1st pic shows where the shim goes (pretty darn EZ!)

Many times shims are unnecessary (this is usually a GM problem-maybe poor designing)

Different starters use different shapes/ hole distances/ etc. (like a zig-zag)

They come in different thicknesses, I normally see 'em 3 in a pack, 1/16", and two 1/32" (I mostly do older "Jeeps", every now and again I'll see this situation on an old chevy)

I'm pretty sure that #1 in the pic is what you will need, most likely the one you use will be the same shape, as I looked up your starter at an online parts store (I don't think you will need #2 in my pic)

The auto parts store should be able to look up the type shims you need.

When I have put these on in the past, I always tried a thin one 1st, as my luck goes, I usually end up removing it and putting in the thick one. In some cases you gotta put more in. It's sometimes a trial and error thing to get it acceptable.

Now, I generally put in the thick one 1st time and that usually does it!

It's EZ!

Disconnect the negative side of the battery, if the starter is dangling during this task, you could accidentally ground the hot wire on the starter! This will prevent the issue.

2 bolts hold the starter in/ up, one will need to come completely out (you will know which will make this EZer when you see what must be done and the room you have to do it!)

Loosen the other bolt maybe 5 turns, the starter will now be gapped down a little bit from what is bolted to.

Insert Mr. Shim forked end 1st, the fork needs to fork around the bolt that you loosened, best done if you attack the bolt from the side. Keep it shoved around the bolt.

Rotate the shim so that the hole in it lines up with the starter bolt hole you can run the bolt you took out Thru the starter/ Thru the shim/ Screw it back it's hole. You may have to scoot it a little bit to get the hole in the shim lined up for the bolt.

Tighten the 2 starter bolts back up.

Hook Mr. Battery back up.

Basically, this is a "washer" between the starter and the housing.

Here's the whole sha-bang as to what you might need, I'd go with the auto parts stores suggestion!

https://www.searchlock.com/search?safe=&start=0&qn=&tbm=isch&sr=sb&rescnt=&q=gm+starter+shims

Pretty Simple

Keeps us posted!

The Medic

2nd pic), my daughter, back at age 10 demonstrates how to start "Willy" should the electric starter ever become uncooperative.

3rd) Grandmonsters

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Saturday, September 10th, 2016 AT 6:44 PM

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