Hard starting after sitting all night

Tiny
07DODGECHARGER
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 DODGE NEON
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 85,000 MILES
Car is hard starting after sitting all night in a garage or after sitting all day outside at work. New plugs, air filter, oil changed, PCV valve changed. Could it be fuel pump or coil pack. Car runs fine after you get it started and it runs for a few to smooth out. Limited funds to fix. Can't afford to just start replacing and cant afford to take to dealer.
Thursday, November 26th, 2009 AT 7:44 AM

39 Replies

Tiny
LEGITIMATE007
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,121 POSTS
Hello,

It sounds like you have an engine coolant sensor that is not working right here are two guides to help us see whats going on and the location of the sensor so you can change it out.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/coolant-temperature-sensor-cts-replacement

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-cranks-excessively-before-starting

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.
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Thursday, November 26th, 2009 AT 1:55 PM
Tiny
MYMATTHEW33
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
New sensor cost $34.00 not to hard to install
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Wednesday, January 2nd, 2019 AT 12:35 PM
Tiny
GTRMAN128
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2005 DODGE NEON
  • 207,000 MILES
Hello, My transmission delays a few seconds from park to drive when the engine is at normal operating temperature after I turn the car off and turn it on again. It does not delay in any other position except drive. Sometimes when I shift from P to D the car will remain neutral for a few seconds. It only delays once (when I turn on the car at operating temp)and after that it does not delay anymore. It was rebuilt last year. I have asked before and all I have gotten was a "bring it over" by aamco (and they are supposed to help me). Thank you.
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Wednesday, January 2nd, 2019 AT 12:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GTRMAN128
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
More info: I have smelled the tranny fluid and it still smells new (it was changed after the rebuild around May 2012). It is normal color and it is at the right level.
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Wednesday, January 2nd, 2019 AT 12:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
You should send it back to AAMCO
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Wednesday, January 2nd, 2019 AT 12:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KNAPPS
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2002 DODGE NEON
Hey guys,
2002 Chrysler Neon
2.0L SOHC engine
65,000 KM
Auto transmission

Occasionally, when the car has been sitting overnight, it will take 5-6 attempts to start. Meaning that, I start it, it cranks 5 times, I shut it off, try it again, cranks 5 times, etc. Repeated 5-6 times before it starts. Sometimes, will start on the first attempt, but stalls right away. And then is hard to start.

Once it starts, runs ok.

After a 10 minute drive or so, re-starting is no problem.

Coincidentally - right when this started - my gas mileage dipped to 25 MPG from the usual 32 MPG.

My local dealer has advised that the battery has failed the load test and needs replacing. I am no expert by any means, but, it turns over fine, just has a hard time starting. Seeking a 2nd opinion here.

Appreciate any thoughts you guys could offer.

TIA,
Knapps
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Wednesday, January 2nd, 2019 AT 12:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,533 POSTS
Not that it has anything to do with the problem, but the car is 5yrs old, the battery is or should be just about done by now.I would start with a fuel pressure test to see if the pump is bleeding all pressure down overnight, this would cause a condition where you would have excessive cranking in the AM
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Wednesday, January 2nd, 2019 AT 12:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
AMANAMAN1
  • MEMBER
  • 33 POSTS
  • 2001 DODGE NEON
Engine Mechanical problem
2001 Dodge Neon 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 134K miles

Sometimes has to crank several times (2-3 tries) before it will start. Usually does it only after sitting for a while. Doesn't do it all the time though. After it starts it runs fine with no codes. Has new plugs and wires and battery. Sound like fuel pump or regulator starting to go? I believe this model has regulator and filter as part of the pump, is that correct? I can change the pump no problem, just wanted your opinion first. Also, what is the proper fuel pressure on this vehicle at the rail?

Hard to pinpoint the problem when it is intermittent and runs fine otherwise, I know. Anything else come to mind that I should look at?

Thanks
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Wednesday, January 2nd, 2019 AT 12:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Hi amanaman1, Welcome to 2carpros and TY for the donation

Fuel pressure is 53-63 psi lower than this could be an injector/s and fuel pressure regulator leaking also test the engine coolant temperature sensor-
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Wednesday, January 2nd, 2019 AT 12:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
AMANAMAN1
  • MEMBER
  • 33 POSTS
Ok, thanks for the reply. Daughter finally brought the car over and let it sit for a while. I checked pressure at the rail after it sat. Was zero. Turned on key to energize fuel pump and did not hear pump and had no pressure. Turned key off and back on and pump pressurized to 60 psi and then car started fine. Turned off car and watched pressure rapidly drop to 5 psi within 30 seconds. Cranked engine and pressure came back up to 60 and then car started. Turned off car and pressure dropped rapidly again to 0. Sounds like a fuel pump to me but how would one check for a leaking injector(s)?

Thanks
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Wednesday, January 2nd, 2019 AT 12:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Check the fuel pressure regulator could be ruptured located on top of fuel pump module-if okay To check the injectors you have to remove the fuel rail along with the injector intact
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Wednesday, January 2nd, 2019 AT 12:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
AMANAMAN1
  • MEMBER
  • 33 POSTS
Ok, so remove the rail w/injectors intact and let the pump pressurize the rail without cranking the engine and see if any injectors leak fuel through? Is that how I'd do it?
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Wednesday, January 2nd, 2019 AT 12:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Yes sir
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Wednesday, January 2nd, 2019 AT 12:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
AMANAMAN1
  • MEMBER
  • 33 POSTS
Ok. I'll check that first but I have a feeling I'll be dropping another fuel tank in the very near future. Thanks again.
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Wednesday, January 2nd, 2019 AT 12:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CINDY919
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 2003 DODGE NEON
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 108,000 MILES
I have an 03 dodge neon. The check engine light has been on for awhile now. Up until lately ive had to problems with it. Now it takes a few turns until it will start. It turns over fine but doesnt want to start. Any idea what the problem could be.
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Wednesday, January 2nd, 2019 AT 12:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 19,053 POSTS
Best if you can get the codes
cycle key on off on off on read trouble codes in the odometer area
let me know what you have for codes
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Wednesday, January 2nd, 2019 AT 12:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CINDY919
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
The code I got was P0440
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Wednesday, January 2nd, 2019 AT 12:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 19,053 POSTS
P0440 :This code is monitored with the engine running. Fuel level greater than 12 percent. Ambient temperature between 39-89 °F (4-32 °C). The code is set when the PCM does not see the Natural Vacuum Leak Detection (NVLD) switch close during the medium/large leak test. The PCM will then increase the vacuum supply to the EVAP system by increasing flow through the EVAP Purge valve. If the switch does not close with an increase in vacuum, an error is detected. This is a two trip fault.

Possible Causes:

Visual And Physical Inspection
EVAP Purge Solenoid Vacuum Supply Inspection
EVAP Purge Solenoid Stuck Closed
NVLD Switch Operation
(Z1) Ground Circuit Open
NVLD Assembly
(K107) NVLD Switch Signal Circuit Open
Evaporative Emission Leak Detection
PCM

i do not think that code should effect the car starting and driving
and I would start by checking the engine for tune up
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Wednesday, January 2nd, 2019 AT 12:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CINDY919
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Two weeks ago the car had a tranny line that runs through the rad blow. Radiator is brand new, tranny(with a new filter each time) and collant systems were flushed mulitiple times to get things back to normal, plugs/wires/air filter are brand new, oil change was also performed at that time. No more then a thousand miles since all this work.
When starting the started sounds good, battery charge is good. All in all it seems like a fuel delivery or spark issue. The only odd thing is that the belt squeals very loudly when it's having this trouble so a pulley could have a problem or it needs a new belt but I don't see how this would cause a starting issue. My brother in law was thinking O2 sensor but usually when that's an issue a car will run rough at idle or when running and this car purrs like a kitten once running.
Any help or anything I could have overlooked would be appreciated. Thank you in advance!

Jesse
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Wednesday, January 2nd, 2019 AT 12:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 19,053 POSTS
If the car not running at all
check timing belt
I dont like the belt noise thing
remove belt and check pulleys for binding or causing the belt to slip
if its an o2 sensor I would suspected a code
you can disconnect the sensor and try and start as the PCM will default to last good reading
if car start and some times it doesn't
have to start by checking spark and fuel pressure
when the problem occur
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Wednesday, January 2nd, 2019 AT 12:36 PM (Merged)

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