2000 Chevy Venture stalls when air temp is below 38 degrees

Tiny
SETLOCB
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 CHEVROLET VENTURE
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 80,500 MILES
My venture Stalls when I let off of the gas only when outside air temp is below 38 degrees (or around there). I took it to a garage and they had the code for MAF sensor. I chnaged the MAF and it still stalled. Took back to garage and same code MAF sensor. I changed it 2 more times and still stalls. I also changed the IAC valve and the van still stalls. When the air temp is above 38 degrees it runs like a top, it runs smooth no miss no stall. I also checked and replaced the Air intake tempeture sensor and it still stalls. I am lost and loosing my mind, can someone please help me?
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Wednesday, December 31st, 2008 AT 7:07 AM

19 Replies

Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
Ok I need you to check something for me. I need you to unplug the coolant temp sensor and do an ohm reading across the sensor terminals not the wire harness and what the temp of the sensor is at the time and get back to me with what you find. Thanks.
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Saturday, January 3rd, 2009 AT 9:12 AM
Tiny
SETLOCB
  • MEMBER
Thank You for the quick response. I checked the temp sensor and I had a reading of 3.42 ohms when engine is cold and 0.56 ohms when engine is warm.
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Saturday, January 3rd, 2009 AT 10:14 AM
Tiny
SETLOCB
  • MEMBER
I took the wrong reading on the ohms meter. I will check it again when the engine cools down and get back to you. It was about 122 degrees when I went back out to check it which would be slightly warm.
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Saturday, January 3rd, 2009 AT 10:23 AM
Tiny
SETLOCB
  • MEMBER
Racefan966, I really couldn't test the temp sensor on the van that well so I took it out. I get different readings saying it's 95 degrees to 112 degrees. The sensor is cold. The readings won't stay on, they flash for a second then I have to make contact again to get another reading. Does this mean the sensor is bad? Or am I doing something wrong. Hope to hear from you soon. Thanks again
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Saturday, January 3rd, 2009 AT 3:22 PM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
It sounds like it could be bad but I do need the ohm to know for sure.
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Monday, January 5th, 2009 AT 11:12 AM
Tiny
SETLOCB
  • MEMBER
The OHMS reading was around 1800 when it was cold. It was only 12 bucks so I replaced it. Any other suggestions. Seeing that it is temp. Related and with everything I've replaced, do you think it might be the EGR valve? Also I forgot to mention before, the garage where I took the van to said they checked the wiring for the MAF sensor and they said they checked out ok.
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Monday, January 5th, 2009 AT 11:47 AM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
Ok do you have any trouble codes stored? Is the engine light on? If so find a parts store that does a free scan and get the codes.
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Monday, January 5th, 2009 AT 12:27 PM
Tiny
SETLOCB
  • MEMBER
Yes the service engine soon light came on today. I have a friend at work who is bringing in a code reader and I will post the codes tomorrow. Thank You again for your help.
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Monday, January 5th, 2009 AT 4:54 PM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
Ok get me those codes and we will see what they have to say. Now remember they will be P plus 4 numbers ok. Thanks till later.
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Tuesday, January 6th, 2009 AT 10:00 AM
Tiny
SETLOCB
  • MEMBER
Racefan966 Thanks again for your help. Here is the code the scanner gave me: P0101 MAF or VAF A CKT Range/Perf 1 of 2 codes 2nd code pending. I also have a question. If the code was never cleared after replacing the MAF and the other sensors I replaced, would this cause the computer to try and make adjustments to the engine if it is reading this code. Thanks again hope to hear from you soon.
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Tuesday, January 6th, 2009 AT 3:43 PM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
Ok what I need you to do is disconnect the MAF Sensor and try to start the car and tell me what it does. Does it start and continue to run or does it not start or start and stall? Get back to me with this and we will go from there. Do not clear the codes yet ok. See you either have a bad MAF or the TPS is bad and these tests will tell us were to go next. The PCM reads the MAF with the TPS and if the PCM see's that the two values are not as they should be then it will set the code and either one or the other may be bad or it may be wiring issure to one or the other.
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Wednesday, January 7th, 2009 AT 10:24 AM
Tiny
SETLOCB
  • MEMBER
Racefan966, I unplugged the MAF sensor and the engine idled fine for about 2 min. Then it started idling erratically ( slightly up and down). Other than that it seemed to idle fine.
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Wednesday, January 7th, 2009 AT 6:18 PM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
Ok good this tells us the MAF sensor is good and working as it should, so plug it back in, now we test the TPS sensor. There are three wires to it a black ground and a gray and dk blue. Now the gray wire should be 5 volts and the dk blue wire should be the signal wire. With the digital multi meter I need you to back probe the dk blue wire (do not unplug it). With the key on engine off and the throttle closed it should read.8 to 1 volt as you slowly lift the the throttle it should slowly and gradually increase with no drops or glitches in voltage till it reaches 4.5 to 5 volt. Let me know what you find here ok. If the tps tests good the PCM is the problem. Get back to me.
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Wednesday, January 7th, 2009 AT 9:42 PM
Tiny
SETLOCB
  • MEMBER
Hey Racefan966, I tested the TPS today with the throttle closed I had about 6.4 volts. I moved the throttle all the way open and had about 4.5 volts. It moved smoothly with no glitches. I sure hope you might have some other ideas beside the PCM. I also checked the voltage for the MAF and it was 12 volts. Well let me know your thoughts. Thank You.
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Thursday, January 8th, 2009 AT 5:26 PM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
Ok you have 6.4 volts with the key on engine off and the throttle closed? Wow that is way to much. Now this was on the DK blue wire right? Now how many volts are at the gray wire? And I need to know how many ohms are at the black wire to a good ground ok. I am thinking if all the other voltages look good then the TPS is bad. See 6.4 volts would make it very hard to start if at all. 6.4 volts tells the computer that you are past Wide Open Throttle (WOT) so it will send a bunch of fuel to the engine. Get back to me the reading and we will take it from there ok.
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Friday, January 9th, 2009 AT 10:13 AM
Tiny
SETLOCB
  • MEMBER
I apologize racefan966 I meant 0.64 volts with the throttle closed. The gray wire was 5 volts. Do you still need me to check the ohms on the black wire?
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Friday, January 9th, 2009 AT 11:53 AM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
Well I hate to say this but with all these tests you are looking at a PCM problem. But here is the good news there is a service bullentin on this too. Bulletin number 00-06-04-026 this maybe a warranty replacement. So run this bulletin number by you local gm dealer and see what they say about it let them know that the P0101 code keeps coming back even after replacing the MAF sensor. Hope this helps.
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Saturday, January 10th, 2009 AT 8:56 AM
Tiny
SETLOCB
  • MEMBER
Racefan966, Just wanted to let you know I found the problem today. It was the MAP sensor. It was actually cracked where the vacuum hose connected to it. I also wanted to thank you again for all your time, help and quick responses. Thanks again.
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Saturday, January 17th, 2009 AT 4:14 PM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
Great glad to help were I could and glad it was an easy fix. If there is anything else just let me know.
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Monday, January 19th, 2009 AT 10:09 AM

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