Adjusting clutch?

That truck has a hydraulic clutch which is not adjustable have you checked the fluid in your clutch cylinder? Or you may have a bad master cylinder. You're not being very specific in your description tell me how much free play it has, and how far the pedal comes off the floor before the clutch engages.

Looks like about 4.5 hours of labor. As far as the clutch itself, it will depend on what you decide to use. Reman clutches are less expensive but tend to have more problems, I always go with new. Looks liek those clutchs go from about $450 on up, so you may want to call and shop around for different options

Hello
Thanks for the donation.

Below are the replacement procedures for replacing your vehicles Clutch, Slave Cylinder, Master Cylinder & Resevoir and Driven Disc & Pressure Plate. Let me know if you need further assistance.

CLUTCH
The driveshaft, transmission and bellhousing must be removed in order to access the clutch. The clutch can then be unbolted from the flywheel. Remove the flywheel, inspect carefully for cracks and resurface. Some flywheels are flat, some are stepped. Be sure the proper step measurement is achieved.
When installing, the clutch must be perfectly aligned (using a pilot tool) so that the transmission input shaft will slip into place. Use a heavy floor jack to keep transmission up while it is unbolted.

DRIVEN DISC & PRESSURE PLATE

REMOVAL:

WARNING: The clutch driven disc contains asbestos, which has been determined to be a cancer causing agent. Never clean clutch surfaces with compressed air! Avoid inhaling any dust from any clutch surface! When cleaning clutch surfaces, use a commercially available brake cleaning fluid.

DIAPHRAGM CLUTCH PROCEDURE
Before removing the bellhousing the engine must be supported. This can be done by placing a hydraulic jack, with a board on top, under the oil pan.

Remove the transmission.
Disconnect the clutch fork pushrod and spring. Remove the clutch housing.
Remove the clutch fork by pressing it away from the ball mounting with a screwdriver until the fork snaps loose from the ball or remove the ball stud from the clutch housing. Remove the throwout bearing from the clutch fork.
Install a pilot tool (an old mainshaft makes a good pilot tool) to hold the clutch while you are removing it.
Before removing the clutch from the flywheel, mark the flywheel, clutch cover and one pressure plate lug, so that these parts may be assembled in their same relative positions. They were balanced as an assembly.

Loosen the clutch attaching bolts one turn at a time to prevent distortion of the clutch cover until the tension is released.
Remove the clutch pilot tool and the clutch from the vehicle.
Check the pressure plate and flywheel for signs of wear, scoring, overheating, etc. If the clutch plate, flywheel, or pressure plate is oil-soaked, inspect the engine rear main seal and the transmission input shaft seal, and correct leakage as required. Replace any damaged parts.

INSTALLATION:
Install the pressure plate in the cover assembly, aligning the notch in the pressure plate with the notch in the cover flange. Install pressure plate retracting springs, lockwashers and drive strap to pressure plate bolts. Tighten to 11 ft. Lbs. The clutch is now ready to be installed.
Turn the flywheel until the X mark is at the bottom.
Install the clutch disc, pressure plate and cover, using an old mainshaft as an aligning tool.
Turn the clutch until the X mark or painted white letter on the clutch cover aligns with the X mark on the flywheel.
Install the attaching bolts and tighten them a little at a time in a crossing pattern until the spring pressure is taken up.
Remove the aligning tool.
Pack the clutch ball fork seat with a small amount of high temperature grease and install a new retainer in the groove of the clutch fork.

WARNING: Be careful not to use too much grease. Excessive amounts will get on the clutch fingers and cause clutch slippage.
Install the retainer with the high side up and with the open end on the horizontal.
If the clutch fork ball was removed, reinstall it in the clutch housing and snap the clutch fork onto the ball.
Lubricate the inside of the throwout bearing collar and the throwout fork groove with a small amount of graphite grease.
Install the throwout bearing. Install the clutch housing.
Install the transmission.
Further installation is the reverse of removal. Adjust the clutch.

COIL SPRING CLUTCH PROCEDURE

Basically, the same procedures apply to diaphragm clutch removal as to coil spring clutch removal.

Before removing the clutch, punch-mark the flywheel, clutch cover and one pressure plate lug so that the components can be reassembled in their original locations.
Loosen the attaching screws one turn at a time to prevent distortion.
When the clutch plate is removed, be sure to mark the flywheel side.
Place 3/8 in. Wood or metal spacers between the clutch levers and the cover to hold the levers down as the holding screws are removed.

SLAVE CYLINDER

REMOVAL:
Raise the vehicle and support it safely.
Disconnect the hydraulic line from the master cylinder.
Remove the slave cylinder retaining nuts at the bellhousing and remove the slave cylinder.
Cover all hydraulic lines to prevent dirt and moisture from entering the system.

INSTALLATION:
Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Tighten the slave cylinder-to-bellhousing nuts to 10-14 ft. Lbs. (14-20 Nm). Refill the master cylinder reservoir with new DOT 3 brake fluid and bleed the system of air.

MASTER CYLINDER

REMOVAL:
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the lower steering column covers.
Remove the lower left side air conditioning duct, if so equipped.
Disconnect the pushrod from the clutch pedal.
Before disconnecting the reservoir hose, drain the reservoir or prepare a plug for the line.
Disconnect the slave cylinder hydraulic line from the master cylinder.
Remove the master cylinder retaining nuts and remove the master cylinder.
Remove the retaining nuts and remove the reservoir and gasket from the firewall.

INSTALLATION:
Install the master cylinder with a new gasket to the cowl. Tighten the retaining nuts to 10-14 ft. Lbs. (14-20 Nm).
Install the remaining components in the reverse of the removal procedure.
Fill the reservoir with new DOT 3 brake fluid and bleed the system of air.

BLEEDING CLUTCH SYSTEM:
Fill the clutch master cylinder with new DOT 3 brake fluid. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
Remove the slave cylinder retaining bolts. Hold the cylinder about 45 Â with the bleeder at the highest point.
Fully depress the clutch pedal and open the bleeder screw. Repeat until all air is expelled from the system, usually after 4 or 5 times. Be sure to close the bleeder screw before releasing the pedal to prevent air from being sucked into the system.
Be sure that the fluid level remains full in the clutch master cylinder throughout the bleeding procedure.

Thanks for using 2CarPros. Com!

Hi there,

you will have to check the master cyl and slave cyl for leaks, more than likely the master is leaking and drawing in air with each pedal application.

Mark (mhpautos)

Junk Yard or new cylinder. Boot bad, torn, disapper? What is problem?

Junk Yard or new cylinder. What is problem?

Clutch disc has seized to input and/or flywheel. Try starting in gear may break free. Also try spraying penatrate oil in at shift fork aim towards input shaft.