Engine stalls while driving?

Hi,

The best thing to do at this point is simply check fuel pressure unless the check engine light is staying on while the engine is running. If that's the case, let me know. Here is a link that explains how it's done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Here are the directions specific to your vehicle along with the diagnostics. The attached pics correlate with the directions.

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2001 Chevy Truck C 1500 Truck 2WD V8-5.3L VIN T
Fuel System Diagnosis
Vehicle Powertrain Management Fuel Delivery and Air Induction Fuel Pump Fuel Pressure Testing and Inspection Component Tests and General Diagnostics Fuel System Diagnosis
FUEL SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
DESCRIPTION
When the ignition is turned ON, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) will turn ON the in-tank fuel pump. The in-tank fuel pump will remain ON as long as the engine is cranking or running and the PCM is receiving ignition reference pulses. If there are no ignition reference pulses, the PCM will turn the in-tank fuel pump OFF 2 seconds after the ignition is turned ON or 2 seconds after the engine stops running.

The in-tank fuel pump is an electric pump attached to the fuel sender assembly. The fuel pump is designed to provide fuel at a pressure above the pressure needed by the fuel injectors. A fuel pressure regulator, attached to the fuel rail, keeps the fuel available to the fuel injectors at a regulated pressure. Unused fuel is returned to the fuel tank by a separate fuel return pipe.

TEST DESCRIPTION

Steps 1-6

pic 1

Steps 7-13

pic 2

Steps 14-19

pic 3

Steps 20-25

pic 4

The numbers below refer to the step numbers on the diagnostic table.
2. This step verifies that the fuel pump is operating.
4. This step tests for an internal fuel leak. If the fuel pressure drops during this test, then an internal loss of pressure is indicated.
6. This step tests the fuel pressure regulator. The fuel pressure regulator is controlled by the engine vacuum. With the engine vacuum applied, the pressure should drop to the specified value.
9. This step inspects the fuel pressure regulator for a fuel leak from the vacuum port. If fuel leaks from the fuel pressure regulator while the fuel pump is commanded ON, replace the fuel pressure regulator.
10. This step tests for a loss of fuel pressure between the fuel feed pipe shut-off adapter and the fuel pump.
11. This step tests for a leaking fuel injector or for a leaking fuel pressure regulator. If the fuel pressure remains constant during this test, the fuel injectors are not leaking fuel.
14. This step tests for a restricted fuel return pipe. If the fuel pressure is within the specified values, there is a restriction in the fuel return pipe.
16. This step determines if the fuel pressure regulator or the fuel pump is the cause of the low fuel pressure. If the pressure rises above the specified value, the fuel pump is OK.
18. This step verifies that a circuit condition is not the cause of a fuel pressure concern. Thoroughly inspect all fuel electrical circuits.

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Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

First at all: Check the fuel pump:
turn on the ignition and "hear" the "Humming" on the gas Tank (it runs for a few seconds and turns off when the line are pressurized.)
let us Know what do you find.

Do you have a check engine light and when was the last tune-up?

Try cleaning out the idle air control valve and test the throttle position sensor voltages and see what happens-

Here's how to clean the IAC valve:

Disconnect the air intake ductwork from the throttle body.

Start the engine, then increase and hold the idle speed to 1,000 to 1,500 rpm.

Spray the throttle cleaner or engine cleaner into the throat of the throttle body, aiming for the idle air bypass port (usually located on the side or top of the throttle body opening). Give this area a good dose of cleaner (about 10 second's worth).

Turn the engine off to allow the cleaner to soak into the IAC passageway.

Wait about three minutes.

Restart the engine, rev and hold at 1,000 to 1,500 rpm, and repeat the cleaning process again.

Turn the engine off again, and reattach the air intake ductwork to the throttle body.

Start the engine and rev and hold to 1,500 to 2,000 rpm until no white smoke is coming out of the exhaust pipe.

If this fails to make any difference, you can remove the IAC valve from the throttle body and spray cleaner directly on the tip of the valve and/or into the ports in the throttle body. Let the cleaner soak awhile, repeat as needed, then reinstall the IAC valve, start the engine and run it at 1,500 to 2,000 rpm as before until no white smoke is seen in the exahust.

If the idle speed still surges after this, the IAC valve is defective and needs to be replaced.

Hello, I'd check fuel pressure and trouble codes. If the vehicle refuses to restart right away, have a helper crank it while you check for spark at the plugs and injector pulse.

Fuel pumps are the most common cause on that truck. Try spraying some starting fluid or carb cleaner into the intake and see if it fires momentarily. That would indicate a fuel problem. If not, I will give you the whole diagnostic sequence.

Connect a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail on the engine, and clip the gauge under a wiper arm so you can watch it while driving. Many auto parts stores rent or borrow tools. They should have a gauge with a number of adapters.

If you lose fuel pressure when the problem occurs, observe all the conditions you can that affect it. You already found turning right is a factor. That could point to a baffle broken loose in the gas tank. The problem would only occur when the fuel level is low.

First, take the truck to a nationally recognized parts store and have them scan the computer for codes. If the light was on, there should be a code stored in the computer that will identify where the problem is coming from.

Let me know what you find, so I can help with the problem.

Joe