Heater core

Tiny
KKCF6671
  • MEMBER
  • 1993 CHEVROLET S-10
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 217,000 MILES
How do I get to the heater core to remove it and install a new one?
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Sunday, January 10th, 2010 AT 11:44 AM

32 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
First you have to remove the entire dash assembly

1. Disconnect battery ground cable.
2. Remove lamp switch trim plate attaching screws, then pull lamp switch rearward and disconnect wiring harness, Fig. 23.
3. Remove A/C and heater control assembly attaching screws, then pull control assembly rearward and disconnect electrical connector.
4. Remove filler panel attaching screws and filler panel, Fig. 24.
5. Remove instrument cluster housing attaching nuts and cluster housing.
6. Remove instrument cluster attaching nuts, then pull cluster rearward and disconnect electrical connector and speedometer cable.
7. Disconnect transmission control cable from steering column, then remove steering column attaching bolts and lower steering column.
8. Remove ashtray and any wires needed for clearance to remove radio trim plate.
9. Remove radio trim plate, then the nuts from the support clips, Fig. 25.
10. Remove support bracket retaining screws, then pull radio rearward and disconnect electrical connectors, antenna cable and speaker connectors.
11. Remove speaker grille attaching screws, then the speakers, Fig. 26.
12. Remove instrument panel attaching bolts and nuts, then pull panel rearward, disconnect all electrical connectors and remove panel.
13. Reverse procedure to install.

Heater Core Replacement

Remove Or Disconnect
1.Engine coolant.
2.Heater hoses.
*Refer to "Heater Hose". See: Heater Hose Replacement
3.Instrument panel.
*Refer to "Dash Board" under Body and Frame / Interior Trim. See: Body and FrameInterior Molding / TrimDashboard / Instrument Panel
4.Rear case screws. (88)
5.Rear case. (96)
6.Screws. (94)
7.Straps. (93)
8.Heater core. (92)
9.Seals. (89 & 90)

Install Or Connect
1.Seals. (89 & 90)
2.Heater core. (92)
3.Straps. (93)
4.Screws. (94)
5.Rear case. (96)
6.Rear case screws. (88)
7.Instrument panel.
8.Heater hoses.
9.Engine coolant.
*Check the system for leaks.

Here's a guide on heater core replacement, not vehicle specific but will give you an idea of whats involved

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-heater-core

All the images area attached below that go with the instructions for your truck
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Sunday, January 10th, 2010 AT 5:46 PM
Tiny
WALLYANDSTEVEN
  • MEMBER
  • 1993 CHEVROLET S-10
  • 13,200 MILES
How do you replace the heater core in the S-10 pickup 4.3 w/A/C?
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Thursday, November 22nd, 2018 AT 8:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
HEATER CORE REPLACEMENT

Remove Or Disconnect

Engine coolant.
Heater hoses.

Refer to "Heater Hose". See: Heater Hose Replacement

Instrument panel.

Refer to "Dash Board" under Body and Frame / Interior Trim. See: Body and Frame Interior Moulding / Trim Dashboard / Instrument Panel

Rear case screws. (88)
Rear case. (96)
Screws. (94)
Straps. (93)
Heater core. (92)
Seals. (89 & 90)

Install Or Connect

Seals. (89 & 90)
Heater core. (92)
Straps. (93)
Screws. (94)
Rear case. (96)
Rear case screws. (88)
Instrument panel.
Heater hoses.
Engine coolant.

Check the system for leaks.
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Thursday, November 22nd, 2018 AT 8:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
WALLYANDSTEVEN
  • MEMBER
Can you be more specific? Is it inside the s-10 under the dash or is it outside under the hood, or both? Remember it is a 4.3 with A/C.
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Thursday, November 22nd, 2018 AT 8:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SAM WILSON
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 CHEVROLET S-10
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 156,000 MILES
How long does it take to change out a heater core box and is this something consumers can be taken advantage of easily. What would be a reasonable cost for having one changed out.
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Thursday, November 22nd, 2018 AT 8:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BLUELIGHTNIN6
  • EXPERT


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/261618_Noname_1304.jpg

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Thursday, November 22nd, 2018 AT 8:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
YARD666BIRD
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 CHEVROLET S-10
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
How hard is it to replace a heater core on a 97 s-10 4x4 6 cylinder?
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Thursday, November 22nd, 2018 AT 8:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
It is a somewhat big job. Here are the directions I was able to find for you:

Disconnect the negative battery cable and properly drain the engine cooling system to a level below the heater core.
Disconnect the heater hoses from the core tubes near the cowl.

The instrument panel carrier is designed not only to provide access to parts through removal of the carrier components, but the carrier will also tilt downward as a complete assembly to allow access from the top. If this is desired, remove the retainer screws along the top and bottom of the carrier assembly (refer to the figure). The instrument panel will then tilt as an assembly into the cab. It is necessary to unbolt and lower the steering column from the carrier to allow for maximum movement of the instrument panel.

The instrument panel must be removed or repositioned for access to the heater core case. Unbolt and either tilt the instrument panel forward or disengage the instrument panel components and remove the panel from the vehicle. In most cases, tilting the panel forward should be sufficient for the necessary access, but if necessary remove the panel refer to Body & Trim in this guide.
Unfasten the heater core rear case retaining screws, then remove the rear case for access to the heater core.
Loosen the retainers and remove the heater core retaining straps.
Remove the heater core and seals.

To install:

Install the heater core and seals, taking care not to damage the core tubes when inserting them through the cowl.
Install and secure the core retaining straps.
Install the rear case and secure using the screws.
Reposition and secure the instrument panel and components. Tighten the cowl screws to 17 inch lbs. (1.9 Nm) and the lower instrument panel screws to 66 inch lbs. (7.5 Nm).
Connect the heater hoses to the core tubes.
Connect the negative battery cable, then properly refill the engine cooling system.
Run the engine at normal operating temperature, then check for leaks.
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Thursday, November 22nd, 2018 AT 8:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
YARD666BIRD
  • MEMBER
Thank you! Wow that seems like a lot!The whole dash has to move, damn. Guess I couldn't get away that easy. This is gonna take awhile :)
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Thursday, November 22nd, 2018 AT 8:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Honestly, nothing is easy anymore.

Let me know if you run into trouble.
Joe
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Thursday, November 22nd, 2018 AT 8:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
YARD666BIRD
  • MEMBER
So far so good. Takin the rest of the night off lol. Been workin on it for 5 1/2 hours already. Everything is diconnected as far as I think on the inside of the cab. Except for the parking brake cable (don't know how to disconnect that, got me confused). All thats left is to drain the system, finish unbolting in engine compartment, pop cores cherry, and reinstall everything. Question: Do I have to remove the balck box lookin thing that houses the core or can I just remove the front panel and get to it?Thanks for your input!
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Thursday, November 22nd, 2018 AT 8:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TOMMYTX
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 CHEVROLET S-10
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 110,000 MILES
Someone had cut of the heater hoses and capped both ends off for years. No bypass was used just cap off.

I assumed the heater core was leaking due to the cap off and changed the heater core.
Still no heat.
Can you give suggestions for what I can check?

Thanks.
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Thursday, November 22nd, 2018 AT 8:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JDL
  • EXPERT
Did you check for flow through the heater hoses? You can take return line loose from engine, aim the hose into container, just bump the starter, don't start it, disable the ignition if you have to. There should be flow coming from the hose? Are the heater hoses getting hot?
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Thursday, November 22nd, 2018 AT 8:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
You should be able to get to it by just removing the front panel.

Five and a half hours. They are a pain!

Let me know how it works out for you and if you have other questions.

Happy Thanksgiving.

Joe
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Thursday, November 22nd, 2018 AT 8:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TOMMYTX
  • MEMBER
Thanks for your offer to help, but I have solved the problem and boy am I confused. First vehicle I have ever seen that would not overheat with the water pump completely dead.
New water pump is installed and heating like a big dog.

For those reading here is the blow by blow:
1. Flushed out the old heater core that was removed.
2. Actually it was just fine.
3. Disconnected both hoses at the firewall.
4. Connected the hoses to the old core laying on the fender of the truck.
5. Started the motor and at 200 degrees on the intrument cluster. Zero zilch heat on the hoses or on the heater core. Okdokye I am on a roll now.
6. Remove radiator cap. After engine shutdown.
7. Disconnect both hoses from core.
8. Use water hose and flush water into hose 1.
9. Success. Water flows out the radiator cap.
10. Force water down the hose connected to top of water pump.
11. Success 2. Water flows from the cap again.
12. Fill radiator to brim and start motor.
13. Water flowing from either hose. Whopping Zero.
14. Now here is a 1/2 inch hose connected direct to the top of the water pump and zero water flow.
15. Hell even the slighest rotation of the vane of the water pump should have blown water all over the place.
16. I would never have suspected this as I have never seen a motor run with a completely dead water pump and run below 200 degrees. A first for me.
17. Change water pump. Heats like a big dog.

Has anyone ever seen this. Hell there was not thermostat so I put a new one there also. And a new serpentine belt to make it all look pretty.

If someone had said water pump while the engine was cooling just fine, I would have said Bull.

Hopefully this will help some other soul out there in the future.

Now the darn horn does not work. Must have broken a wire during the major dash rip off to replace the non bad heater core. Anyone need a good use heater core. Actually the removed unit looks relatively new. I suspect someone had replaced in the past trying to fix the heater problem with no success. So both cores are good now.

So no longer will I automatically suspect a leaking heater core when the core has been bypassed or capped off as this one was.

Thanks for the help. But I just saw your input tonight.

One final note: I purchased the one month access to the data on this truck so I guess I will not look up the schematics and parts lay out and get to work on the darn horn. Hopefully some of you nice folks will read this and comment. That will give me an email reminder that a comment has been made and I will return to tell you which wire I pinched or broke during the dash removal for the core change that I did not need. Oh well. Its done. Almost once I figure out this freaking horn thingy.
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Thursday, November 22nd, 2018 AT 8:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
YARD666BIRD
  • MEMBER
Woohoo! Finally done. Total of 8 1/2 hours. Had a buddy come over and help me put it back together. The speedo didn't work but now I've got that all figured out. Thank you, thank you, thank you for the help that you posted for me =)appericate it. Hope you have Happy Holidays. Yard.
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Thursday, November 22nd, 2018 AT 8:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JOERIN42
  • MEMBER
After reading someone elses post here, I've learned that there is a series of relay switches that operate the fuel pump and/or horn located in the glove box. Maybe with your year, out on the firewall above distributor. Switch them out and try the horn, then try to start the truck. It may be your problem since your horn hasn't worked after tearing into the dash/glovebox to get to your heater core.
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Thursday, November 22nd, 2018 AT 8:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Glad to help and good job. Let us know if you have questions in the future, happy holidays to you too.

Take care,
Joe
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Thursday, November 22nd, 2018 AT 8:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TOMMYTX
  • MEMBER
Thanks for that suggestion but the horn works now.
Actually when I reinstalled the battery as I got hit by the inspector not only for disconnected heater core, he zapped me on no battery hold down. That is why the battery was completely removed.
Ok but during battery installation I accidentally set the battery back in the case in reverse. After spreading the fat post wider to make it fit, I ended up hooking the battery up backwards. Guess what happened?
1. The horn sucked.
2. The lights cast a shadow and
3. The radio listened.

Know how I knew the radio was listening. It sat there quietly and smoked. Hee hee just kidding. Don't try this at home.

Hell it even made the engine start up rotating backward and I then had 3 reverse gears and 1 forward.

Ok. Enough with the jokes. Back to the horn and another more weird problem than with the bad water pump.

In investigating the failed horn, I dived under the dash again with the following results. Previously while under the dash I had a left flasher lite out and so I replaced that one. Also I had a steady lite on the dash saying "anti-lock" problem. The inspector did not fail me for this, but since I had to go back for the re-inspection I did not want that staring him in the face. So I removed that bulb so it don't stay on. Some how that completed a ground somewhere to the horn, becasue when I put the bulb for antilock back in the horn worked. But now I got the antilock light again. So I replaced the good bulb with the burned out buld I removed from the left turn light and bingo I now have no antilock lite and the horn is working fine. Bingo.

I am not suggesting anyone do this, as it is a safety violaton to disable the anti-lock lite. And I am not teaching law breaking. As I am not a member of ACORN.

K- let me qualify this. Just in case someone is very knowledgable and says bull. The flasher lite will not fit in the slot for the anti-lock socket. The actual work on this was done by my mechanic. And I also though it weird, but he did not charge me as he said the horn fail was caused by himself.

IF anyone knows or has ideas please enlighten me as I am not sure I believe that whole story, but he had no resason to make it up. Either way I did not pay for the service.

Also I think I got a pretty good deal as professional shops claim 7.5 hrs for the core change. And most charge from 60 to 90 dollars and the chevy dealer is around 110 an hour. I paid 250 + parts. I think that is fair. If you are in the Norfolk, Va area and need a quick core change even if its not bad get a hold of me.

So what the hell I got a new core and new water pump. Live and learn. So as the story goes. Never assume obvious (most likely).
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Thursday, November 22nd, 2018 AT 8:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
WILLIECBROWN
  • MEMBER
  • 1988 CHEVROLET S-10
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 259,000 MILES
Heater Core
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Thursday, November 22nd, 2018 AT 8:22 AM (Merged)

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