No Spark?

Just installed new crate engine after truck sat for 1 year. Replaced ignition coil and had ignition module checked(ok). P/U coil is about 3 years old and still looks new. Also new is dist. Cap, oil press sending unit, plugs and plug wires. Varified TDC and not setting off any codes, cleaned all grounds. Engine is turning over strong but no spark. Anything outside the distributor that would not allow spark?

I hooked volt meter to plug wire on ignition coil and got 12 volts when ignition turned on. I then hooked meter to center plug wire on distributor cap( with ignition coil hooked up) and got the same, but nothing going to spark plugs. To check ohms on p/u coil, do I need to unhook it from ig. Module 1st? Also, the ignition module is showing 11 volts at pos. Terminal and about the same at C terminal

I have a 1987 s-10 2.8 liter with no spark and no fuel in the TBI. I do have good pressure to the throtle body. When I crank it over I see no fuel. If I put a spark plug on the coil wire and turn on the ignition I see a spark, but not at the end of the plug wires.

86 Chevrolet S-10 Blazer 4x4 2.5L Manual 150k
Engine was rebuilt 3yrs ago. My Blazer died out on the interstate and a brief on the side of the road inspection revealed that I was not getting any spark what so ever. Fuel delivery is fine, engine rotates, the whole nine yards. I am stumped as to why it has no spark now. I have yet to replace any components till I can at least narrow the problem down. Computer, coil, wiring, or ignition module in the distributor.

I replaced everything in my ignition system from the ignition control mod, hall effect switch, coil, plug wires, and plugs as they were all bad, weak (wires) or fouled out. Still no spark. I finally broke out the trusty Haynes manual and looked at the engine ignition wiring diagram. After running down all the wires, I found the problem. A bad ground that is for the fuel pump relay. It had broke off the mount to the block and was resting against the grounding strap for the block. A quick fix and reattachment to the block and I am back on the road.

It was running and starting up yesterday, I recently changed out spark plugs/wires. So I ran all test to check for spark and nothing. Then I figured the coil was bad. I ran test on it and no spark so I replaced the coil and still no spark. Can anyone please help me or might have another idea of what it might be?

Thanks for the comments and help.

Okay, thank you and I'm not to tech on cars just normal base just replacing genral parts. I will show diagram to my buddy that has more technology then me.

My truck will crank but it doesn't start. I already changed the distributor cap, ignition coil, rotor, pick-up coil, control module and spark plug cables; still no spark out of coil. Before you tell me, I KNOW this isn't what I was supposed to do. I should have used an elimination process, but I was desperate, and in a hurry. I found out the ECC had been removed (thank goodnes, cause I think I would've replaced that as well, LOL)

After giving up, I took things slowly and started "testing" the electric cables, that's when I found out that the cable coming from the coil's primary resistance didn't have any energy. When I hooked the tester to the positive on the Bat, and tested this cable, it didn't light up. The other (secondary) is fine.
But here is my main problem: When I followed this cable (the one from the primary. It's white and very thin) it ended at a plug, which of course I don't know where it goes and this cable only measures around 24". So I'm GUESSING it could've been plugged to some kind of Resistor. Because it's too short to reach the ignition switch. Well I can't find a resistor ballast, nor another cable coming from the ignition switch that would join it.
I don't know what a calibrated resistance wire looks like, but I'm betting it's a lot thicker than this white thin one.

Any ideas? Suggestions? Should I go and buy a resistor ballast and plug the white primary cable to it? If so, What exactly do I do? Would I need one coming from the resistor INTO the Ignition switch? Any other things I should do before this? Please, I'm desperate.

Thanks in advance. And please don't be hard on me about all the replacing I did!

Angie.

Ps. BTW The only wire I can see coming from the ignition switch is a yellow and a purple one. One going to the solenoid and the other to the clutch switch. According to the repair manual, there should be a pink one going to the Ignition coil. Of course I can't find any.

Hi,
Thanks for answering.
It's an '85 Chevy Pick-up 4wd. V6/2.8L
About the fuses, they were one of the first things my husband checked and he said they were O.K. I'll do a recheck this afternoon after I get back from work, and get back to you.

Also, as I mentioned before, the cable from the coil's primary winding is unplugged and I can't find where to put it.
The wiring diagram I'm using in my repair manual is also on Autozone's website.

Thanks again,

Angie

O.K. I rechecked the fuses and they're all fine. But coming from the ignition switch there's a bunch of cables, so I have no idea which one was the one that joined the coil's primary winding's cable. So that's where I am, and that's the problem right now.
Any suggestions on how to find it? I'm at my wit's end!

Hope to hear from you soon.

Angie.

I found out that the cable coming from the ignition switch to the coil is the pink one (and it also says so in the repair manual) now the problem is that once this cables comes out into the engine, I think it changes color or something because I can't find it. I figured it goes thru some kind of spliter or box and then they plug another colored wire from then on. Is there any test I can do to figure out which is which? 'Cause I don't think pulling it to see if it moves out side would work, right?

Sorry for so many questions, but I do appreciate any help I can get.

Angie.