1995 Chevy Astro idle problems

Tiny
GOD54901
  • 1995 CHEVROLET ASTRO

Engine Performance problem
1995 Chevy Astro 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 120, 00 miles

hi I have a 95 astro van that is really making me mad it idles rough even while driving.I have put my scanner on it also auto zones scanner on an both say no codes, I have replaced plugs wires cap and rotor, cleaned the iac, checked vacuum lines, and checked fuel pressure, and still runs rough, now im tinking ing module?Crank sensor or the computer all together? Any help would be great next step is I stick of TNT and a match lol

Do you
have the same problem?
Yes
No
Tuesday, January 26th, 2010 AT 7:28 PM

27 Replies

Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • EXPERT
  • 3,790 POSTS

Hello,

Ok, with that year most fuel related problems won't set a code.

First if you haven't already, even if you have please double check the firing order....


http://z.about.com/d/autorepair/1/0/g/_/41894088.gif



I have come across this to many times and the people have checked and double check and still crossed wires.

If firing order is correct then next step would be to check or just replace the Injector Assembly. I say replace cause it is located under the intake.


http://partimages.genpt.com/partimages/647264.jpg




http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/188069_fuelinjection95astrolocation1_1.jpg



.

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, January 26th, 2010 AT 7:56 PM
Tiny
KOBRA000
  • MEMBER

Is there any way you can send me that exploded view or the link to it? I desperately need it.

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, February 22nd, 2010 AT 9:02 PM
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • EXPERT
  • 3,790 POSTS

Sorry for delay in posting back. Little boy sick and had to take him to a specialist.

Anyway I am at work right now so when I get home this evening I will post the exploded view and email it to you.

.

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, February 26th, 2010 AT 12:02 PM
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • EXPERT
  • 3,790 POSTS

Here is the exploded veiw.....


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/188069_95astrospiderassembly_1.jpg



Also look for an email of same

.

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, February 26th, 2010 AT 8:09 PM
Tiny
KOBRA000
  • MEMBER

Sir I owe you a case of whatever your favorit beer is that pic will undoubtedly save me alot of frustration and trouble.

Thank you ever so much for sending it too me.

Keith.

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, February 27th, 2010 AT 11:03 PM
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • EXPERT
  • 3,790 POSTS

No Problem, let me know if you need anything else.

.

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, February 28th, 2010 AT 6:03 PM
Tiny
KOBRA000
  • MEMBER

Well I got the new injection in but I have thus ran into two problems. One I think being huge.
1: I have no information telling me where each injector plug/poppet valve goes where no numbers or letters nothing.I dont want to blindly start plugging them into the wrong port. I was wondering if anyone has a detailed diagram/layout showing where each injector plugs into its proper port
2 on the electrical connector that attaches to the top of this assembly I found some black sticky goop that almost completely coats the entire connector. Is this some means of protection/insulation for the connector? And if so can anyone tell me what it is and where to find it and if it is critical to the correct re installation of the new injection system?
Any and all answers or help is greatly greatly appreciated.
Thanks

Keith
working on a 1995 Chevy Astro with bad injection problems

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, March 8th, 2010 AT 12:59 PM
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • EXPERT
  • 3,790 POSTS

Hey Keith,

It is simple once the assembly is installed there should be 3 lines on each side. And they go as they are, the one one either side toward front of engine go in socket at front of engine the ones in middle go to middle socket and of course the ones toward rear go the the rear sockets.

And I believe the tar like coating is a factory thing and doesn't have to be placed on new assembly.

.

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, March 8th, 2010 AT 9:30 PM
Tiny
KOBRA000
  • MEMBER

I got everything back in and its looking good, with no leaks or odd explosions of any sort lol. But now im at the stage where I need to bolt the upper intake plenum back on and I need the torque specs and bolt tightening sequence badly

again any information would be greatly appreciated and all the info from everyone thus far is thanked for a million times over.

Keith

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, March 11th, 2010 AT 9:43 AM
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • EXPERT
  • 3,790 POSTS

Hey Keith,

Guess I should have posted the specs also before you had to ask for them. Anyway, here they are....

Lower Intake Torq is 35 foot pounds


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/188069_4_3lowerintaketorqseq_1.jpg



Upper Intake Torq Is 10 foot pounds


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/188069_4_3upperintaketorqseq_1.jpg



.

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Thursday, March 11th, 2010 AT 6:23 PM
Tiny
KOBRA000
  • MEMBER

Ok now something is rotten in denmark,

i did everything like I should of and was told, installed the new injection system exactly like the old one, torque everything down properly, replugged all the sensors, reconnected the throttle linkage, put on a new coil and rotor, installed a new EGR but when I went too crank it today after checking and double checking and triple and 4th time checking, IT WILL NOT START.
I dont have a fuel pressure gauge so I dont know if im getting the proper fuel pressure to the new injection (heard it was between 45 and 65psi) would any new problem show up on a scanner? Its not even acting like it wants to start, no thumping of the cylinders or anything. Just sits and spins when I hit the key.

I simple cannot figure out why it wont start
any ideas guys?

Any and all help is greatly appreciated

thanks

Keith.

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, March 12th, 2010 AT 6:04 PM
Tiny
KOBRA000
  • MEMBER

Ok I forgot a few things from my last post a few min ago

i cleaned the upper intake port with some MEK because one of the holes (the on closest to the EGR thats about the best I can explain it.)
was almost completely blocked by carbon build up,
I poured just a tiny tiny amount of MEK(read it was the same thing in gumout carb cleaner), about a table spoon into it. After some set time all these big ping ball sized chunks and nuggets of carbon came falling out after I let it set for about 10 to 15 to work and a 2 days to dry out, the MEK cleaned the gunked up hole like crazy but im wondering if it might of damaged one of the sensors resulting in it not being allowed to start
also there was some black tar like goop on the electrical connector for the new injection since most of the gunk left with the old injection I used black ATV sealant.I connected the connector made sure it was good and locked down, then shot a bead around it figuring it would protect it from any kind of leak. Could this of been a mistake as well?

Ive went over every single connection, and I just cant figure out why it wont start,

if anyone has an idea please please let me know.

Keith.

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, March 12th, 2010 AT 6:29 PM
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • EXPERT
  • 3,790 POSTS

Ok, did you check to make sure you have good spark? I know you said you replaced the coil, but, you could have gotten a bad coil.

Do you hear the fuel pump turn on when key turned to on position? If not relays and check fuses.

If you have a local rental store see if they have a fuel pressure tester.

.

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, March 12th, 2010 AT 7:42 PM
Tiny
KOBRA000
  • MEMBER

No I didnt replace the coil, just the cap and rotor, I held the "coil" wire against a bolt stud and hit the key and got a good solid arc. Its just not firing for some reason.
It will do a funny kinda hesitate afer it runs through a few cycles. Kinda like it "seizes" but wont fire off. Sorry but its very hard to describe.

Im thinking perhaps I got my plug wires mixed/ on wrong or I don't have enough pressure to the injection system(they said the poppet valves wont open till 45 psi). But if anyone has any more ideas please let me know. This is only the 3rd car I have ever worked on. Im used to a 89 ford Thunderbird and a 85 camaro berlinetta and that is the extent of my automotive knowledge.

Thanks for the info guys.

Keith.

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, March 12th, 2010 AT 7:57 PM
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • EXPERT
  • 3,790 POSTS

Ok, what color was the spark? It should be a Bright Bluish/White. If Orange spark is weak and possibly need to replace coil.

.

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, March 12th, 2010 AT 8:00 PM
Tiny
KOBRA000
  • MEMBER

Yep real strong bluish white spark.

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, March 12th, 2010 AT 8:03 PM
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • EXPERT
  • 3,790 POSTS

Ok have you rechecked the firing order?


http://z.about.com/d/autorepair/1/0/g/_/41894088.gif



.

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, March 14th, 2010 AT 7:29 PM
Tiny
KOBRA000
  • MEMBER

Well I got it too start, was a simple mix up of the plug wires, but I still have two problems

1: im still getting fuel alll down in the oil pan, when I do the screwdriver trick and use a stethoscope I can hear it trickleing

2 its stuttering for some reason, im thinkinging this is caused by bad plugs, going to change them tomorrow

does anyone have any ideas why the fuel would be getting down into the oil? Cause im at a loss on this one.

Thanks for all your input and please keep it coming

thanks

Keith.

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, March 15th, 2010 AT 10:51 PM
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • EXPERT
  • 3,790 POSTS

Where and when are you listening with the Stethoscope? If listening at the block with engine running or just after turning engine off then most likely what you are hearing is the oil returning to the oil pan and not fuel. And if you haven't changed the fuel filled oil then it will sound pretty much like water running.

.

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Please consider a donation if we helped you
Tuesday, March 16th, 2010 AT 8:33 PM
Tiny
KOBRA000
  • MEMBER

I used the steth all over the engine, upper intake is where I hear the trickling sound the most and the clearest, and it does sound like running water, but I have changed the oil 3 times so far in the last few weeks, (dont want any explosions) also my white smoke problem persists, was told it might be steam from coolant getting into the combustion chamber, but the thing is its been cold the past few days, steam is hot and I would think it would rapidly vanish in cold air, this white smoke does not vanish but lingers on for quite some time, im thinking that its not steam but something else, but cant figure out what would cause white smoke, gasket burning, junk burning? Perhaps somethin in the catalytic converter burning?

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks

keith.

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, March 17th, 2010 AT 12:51 AM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Related Engine Idle Erratic Questions

Recommended articles