Car won't start, shift out of park, no tail lights

Tiny
SCOUTXLT
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 FORD CROWN VICTORIA
  • 4.6L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 155,000 MILES
I have already replaced the brake switch on the peddle arm, checked fuses, but still can't seem to get the car to start or shift out of park? I suspect there maybe something else going on, car ran fine a couple days ago; then started car as usual the other morning, went to shift it out of gear and the car stalled. Then wouldn't start, thought it maybe fuel related so I let it sit over night, went back to start in the am got it running but as soon as I put my foot on the brake it stalled again and then wouldn't start. Couldn't shift out of park. I have subsequently changed the brake switch and car still won't start and unable to shift out of park and I don't have any brake lights. At a loss and many of the shops I've talked to don't even want to work on it? I suspect it maybe just a simple thing I may be overlooking. Like a fuse, but all seem fine. Someone suggested that the Shift Interlock solenoid had a fuse but can't seem to locate one?
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Friday, May 2nd, 2014 AT 10:26 AM

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Tiny
SCOUTXLT
  • MEMBER
Just an update: Completed the fuse tests #5 which controls the Shift Lock 'switch/solenoid' is good with key in "On" position. #6 though is "not" working, even when you pull the fuse I get no power to the plugs. It supposed to control: main light switch, speed control [cruise has been NF for sometime] Headlamp dimmer, lighting control module, clock. [Which is not running presently/ yet did work before this issue]

#7 is also "Not" lighting up, which is for the Power Control Mod/ Diode and Ignition Coil But the car is turning over, yet not firing. Could this be part of the issue?

There is a list of other fuses not lighting up when key is in the "On" position as well #'s 1, 2, 6, 10, 11, 13, 17 although I am unsure if they are 'off' for a reason or not?

#'s 4, 5, 8, 9, 15, 16 are Hot. Also "All" fuses under hood in main are Hot
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Friday, May 2nd, 2014 AT 11:52 AM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
For not shifting out of park it may be the shift interlock either blew a fuse or isn't working. Check what I've pointed out in pic and see if shift interlock is getting power and putting it out. Also if brake switch isn't working it may not be sending power to shift interlock either not allowing you to shift out of park. If you have some cheap switch made in china and not a brand name that may be the problem. Make sure to use a product like delco/standard/motorcraft etc. Even if made in a foreign country they are made to their specs see if you get power going in and out of the switch then go to shift interlock and check there as well. If no brake lights no sift interlock either.
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Friday, May 2nd, 2014 AT 12:50 PM
Tiny
SCOUTXLT
  • MEMBER
Hello Hmac300-

Thanks for the info & diagram, they are hard to find in a state you can actually read what they say. The switch I got was from "Standard Motor Products/Taiwan" anytime I get an aftermarket switch I am dubious of its quality but testing it the item does seem to be functional. Frankly as was the switch I removed [for $10 I figured maybe something was just not working properly continuity aside]

I also don't have hazard lights, and still no brake lights. Saw somewhere that the third eye light in the center can be an issue, I knew one was blown and when I pulled it to replace bad bulb noted 'both' were blown. Replaced both bulbs but still no brake lights. Though I do have turn signals F/R.

I am beginning to wonder if I have some type of 'short/open' somewhere in the wires, or perhaps a bad shift interlock solenoid, the fuse for it "Is" hot when key is in the on/start position.
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Friday, May 2nd, 2014 AT 2:24 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
You may have a fuse block problem if you are not getting powr to tha tmany fuses or a fusible link. Check to see if brake light switch puts power out of the green wire to shift interlock, that is the one that lets it work. You cold have a wiring issue. The ignition switch supplies power to some of the fuses you are talking about so you could have a bad switch or a cut wire there. Check the brn/pink and blk/lt grn wires leading to fuse box to see if the have power plus the fuses in pic as they may be problem as well as they are underhood.
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Friday, May 2nd, 2014 AT 4:18 PM
Tiny
SCOUTXLT
  • MEMBER
Thanks for the pointers. Worked on it till I couldn't go any further, then turned it over to someone who knows electronics. Ended up being the jokers that installed some aftermarket "remote starter" and had apparently cut or removed wires for the ignition circuit that should not have been modified. I've only had the car for about a year, so it is unknown as to the culprit of this aftermarket boondoggle but suffice it to say the car is running now, except with the addition of a start switch since it was more cost effective to install a switch than rewire the harness where the damage was. Pulled out the remote starter rats nest of wires and streamlined it to functionality. Thanks Again for the pointers.
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+1
Tuesday, May 20th, 2014 AT 4:35 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
It figures clowns worked on your car and screwed it up
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Wednesday, May 21st, 2014 AT 6:14 AM

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