1995 Cadillac Fleetwood V8 Two Wheel Drive Automatic 171000 miles
I have a 1995 Cadillac Fleetwood “brougham edition" with the LT1 350 motor. I have not owned this car very long. I trust the previous owner and he said car was good and motor was strong but the rear brakes have an issue, Etc. When I got the car the warning indicators “lights" that were on were Traction control OFF and the anti lock brake light ONLY.
I took it to the gm dealer and paid them 150.00 to tell me as much as they could with that money only as to what is wrong with the car. They came back and said the suspension all needs to be replaced, exhaust is leaking multiple places, rear brakes are completely shot and digging into the drums, and the computer says the front drivers side speed sensor needs to be replaced. *** I fixed the exhaust “all new parts", I installed new suspension front and rear “air ride", replaced the rear brakes and drums and wheel cylinders. I did not replace the speed sensor “expensive"
Now here is my problem- when I replaced the rear brakes I attempted to bleed the brakes the old fashioned way “not remembering the car has bosch abs" well of course that didn’t work, so I called a knowledgable buddy and he told me a way to bleed them but it would be very time consuming… but I bled them for over 2 hours, most air came out except the rear drivers side which kept “spitting" a little air out no matter how many times I bled it “well over 30 times". Anyways after driving it for less than 20 minutes the front brakes were seizing up and would not release. The same indicators came right back on“I assume they went off in the first place because I disconnected the battery" PLUS now the Brake light came on “not just the abs light", I kept driving for about 1 mile to get back to my house and sure enough the engine light came on and the oil pressure light to “I assume from making the engine work to hard to keep moving". When I arrived the brakes were red hot and smoking! I left for the day. I came back the next day and re bled the entire system and still a little air was spitting from the rear driver side. Started it up and the all the warning lights stayed on except the pressure and engine light “assume they reset after it cooled down" I got in and drove it and the brakes were completely free… but after about 15 minutes of driving the front brakes started grabbing again, this time I shut it down right away. Walked home and returned about 4 hours later to tow it onto a flatbed… but miraculously the brakes freed themselves. Took it back to the shop and here it sits.
I checked and rechecked the rear wheel cylinder to make sure it wasn’t faulty and that the bleed screw wasn’t clogged. Called the gm place again and they said it sounds like the brakes still need to be bled professionally… they said it needs a computer to hook up to open and close the valves in the abs and it needs to be pressure bled at the same time, they said my symptoms sound like a simple air in the line issue. They also said most of the lights would go off but the traction control OFF and the abs light will stay on due to the speed sensor needing to be replaced. What do you think? Why wouldn’t my bleeding technique work “bleed front p side 8 times, then front d side 8 times, then rear p side 8 times, then rear d side 8 times, and repeat 3 or 4 times" I was told this method would open and close the valves enough to get any air in the abs out. Is there a chance the speed sensor would cause the front brakes to start holding? Also the brakes don’t GRAB hard all of a sudden but rather they are simply in contact “not releasing fully" and causing friction to build up heat and eventually causing them to hold firm, seems true as they appear to “release" when cooled down. The full brake system is completely clean of any residue, dirt, etc and the fluid comes out clean as a whistle… when I first got it the fluid was pretty bad and seemed to have a consistency of jello floating on top in the master cylinder. Oh and I should mention I do not have the rubber “gasket" for the master cylinder cover… was told this could be contributing to the issue as it may be needed for pressure or vacuum or something like that. Is there a way to bleed the brakes myself without paying over 130 bucks if all goes well more if it takes longer they say. If I fix these issues “pro bleeding, buy gasket and replace speed sensor" and I still have issues… what else could it be? How do I check the abs block or module to make sure it isn’t the problem… as I stated the only computer code that the gm place had was the faulty speed sensor.
Monday, December 21st, 2009 AT 2:33 AM