Left rear power window problem

Tiny
LUVMYDEVILLECADDY
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 CADILLAC DEVILLE
  • V8
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 120,000 MILES
The regulator and the module both work correctly just not on the left side. I tried them both on the right side and they work fine. Where is the fuse and relays for the left rear side? I also get the module to click but nothing happens. Any ideas?
Sunday, May 30th, 2010 AT 2:02 PM

20 Replies

Tiny
FACTORYJACK
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,159 POSTS
It is quite possible with the year and miles, that there may be broken/shorting wires in the pivot area of the door, or in the door itself. First would be to check if power and ground are getting to the window motor. You would remove the panel keeping the connections intact, but disconnect the windo motor. Bridge the window motor connector with a test light and operate the switch in both directions. It should light in both directions. If it does, you have a faulty motor, which I believe is sold as a complete regulator. The click you hear is the module switching (internal relay)
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Sunday, May 30th, 2010 AT 3:15 PM
Tiny
ELR3
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 1999 CADILLAC DEVILLE
  • V8
  • FWD
  • 128,000 MILES
I have a 1999 Cadillac Deville. The driver side windows will not go up or down. There is no sound whatsoever from either the front or rear. I tried the rear window on it's own switch and it doesn't work or make a sound. Any suggestions? On my last car I took a wire and ran it from the battery to the window motor.
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Monday, June 3rd, 2019 AT 6:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FACTORYJACK
  • MECHANIC
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You would either need to check that power and ground is coming out of the switch to the motors, or check it at the motors. Switches were known to fail on these years. Does the left rear work with it's dedicated switch?

You could apply power and ground to the motor, and it should go one way or the other depending on the polarity. The chance that you had two motors fail at the same time would be unlikely, so they would probably work. That would lead you back to having to do electrical checks of the circuits. If you have a test light and can use it, you can check first if power is getting to the motors, and if not trace it back in the circuits. I got you a schematic for reference.

Here are some guides and diagrams to help you start testing

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

Check out the diagrams (Below)

Please let us know what you find.

Cheers
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Monday, June 3rd, 2019 AT 6:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ELR3
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  • 4 POSTS
Thanks gstacey. I really used that schematic and the window switch was bad nice work 2Carpros you guys are smart. Save me big cash I like that. I will tell me friends.
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Monday, June 3rd, 2019 AT 6:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ADAMPUDLINER
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
Thanks for the post. I am having the same problem but with all four windows. I replaced the switch and it works.

Thanks!
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Monday, June 3rd, 2019 AT 6:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CHERI63MI
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
  • 2003 CADILLAC DEVILLE
  • V8
  • AWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 90,500 MILES
Help, my power windows are possessed. Last week I notced the rear passenger window wouldn't go down by the switch on the rear door, but still worked using the drivers door controls. Now, the front passenger door window won't go down from the door switch and it will go down using the drivers door switch for the drivers door window. They both go up and down at the same time. The rear drivers side window will sometimes work, but won't work from the door switch with the door open.
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Monday, June 3rd, 2019 AT 6:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FACTORYJACK
  • MECHANIC
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For starters, it could be a logic issue with a door module. Try disconnecting the battery cables shorting them together for a minute or so. Reconnect them and see what works. The left rear window may have issues with a connection or wire in the pivot that may explain why it won't work with the door open.
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Monday, June 3rd, 2019 AT 6:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NAHNNTU
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
Fixed my car too, you guys are great :)
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Monday, June 3rd, 2019 AT 6:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CHERI63MI
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
Do you mean to disconnect the cables and then reconnect? I'm not sure what the statement "shorting them together" means.
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Monday, June 3rd, 2019 AT 6:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FACTORYJACK
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Disconnecting both, touching(shorting) them together for a minute or so. This discharges all capacitors.
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Monday, June 3rd, 2019 AT 6:37 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FACTORYJACK
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Did that make any sense, and have you tried it?
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Monday, June 3rd, 2019 AT 6:37 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CHERI63MI
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
Yes that worked. Thanks for the help!
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Monday, June 3rd, 2019 AT 6:37 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FACTORYJACK
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Just out of curiosity, did it also correct the window that only worked with the door closed?
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Monday, June 3rd, 2019 AT 6:37 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CHERI63MI
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
Lol I was so happy to have the windows open on their own switches we forgot to check. I'll check it tomorrow and reply back. Thanks
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Monday, June 3rd, 2019 AT 6:37 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FACTORYJACK
  • MECHANIC
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Still in suspense, are the windows operating correctly?
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Monday, June 3rd, 2019 AT 6:37 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CHERI63MI
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
My husband went out to check to see if the rear drivers side window would roll down with the door open, nope it wouldn't work. It did work when the door was closed. He closed the door to put the window up and now it won't go up at all. He had the key on to try and power the windows and now the car won't start, it just clicks. All the lights are dim and he thinks it is a dead battery, I have a feeling it is a short somewhere. Any suggestions?
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Monday, June 3rd, 2019 AT 6:37 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CHERI63MI
  • MEMBER
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After we did jumped the battery the car started. I had my husband slam the back drivers side door because the window still wouldn't go up. After he slammed it, I was able to put it up with the drivers controls for the rear window. I think we have a short somewhere in the line that runs through the bottem of that door.
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Monday, June 3rd, 2019 AT 6:37 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FACTORYJACK
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That is why I was wondering. With your original symptom, that window specifically not functioning did not apply. What I have seen in the past, is wiring that has chaffed, or a poor connection from the body harness to that door harness. There is a connector just inside the pass through grommet, that I think you could access by removing the center pillar trim panel. Disconnect and check for any sign of heat damage, and that indicates a poor connection.
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Monday, June 3rd, 2019 AT 6:37 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CHERI63MI
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
Thank you so much for repeatedly asking me if it was completely fixed. Had you not done so, I probably wouldn't have found out something more was wrong until I ended up stranded or in the middle of winter with a window stuck down.
I'm going to have my husband check and we'll let you know what we find. We may end up taking it to someone, I don't think my husband if very comfortable doing anything electrical with that car lol I'll keep you posted on the results. Thanks again
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Monday, June 3rd, 2019 AT 6:37 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FACTORYJACK
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Thank you.
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Monday, June 3rd, 2019 AT 6:37 PM (Merged)

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