Engine will not crank over?

Tiny
JONATHAN GORDON
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 BUICK LESABRE
  • 3.8L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 189,000 MILES
I turned it off the other day and it would not start back up. It will not crank over I turn the key on the lights on the dash cam on the gauges work security light is blinking has blank since I own the car. But when I turn the key nothing happens I have with the car set four days or so and went out and got in and started right up this is not the first time this is happened but I want to fix it so don't happen again. What are your thoughts? The battery is good but starter is good, fuses are all good. Where do I go from there?
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Friday, December 28th, 2018 AT 2:44 AM

66 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,554 POSTS
I would do a security system relearn which you can do by following this guide.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-reset-a-security-system

this guide can help as well

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

Please run down this guide and report back.

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Sunday, December 30th, 2018 AT 12:00 PM
Tiny
TISHTRISH
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 1997 BUICK LESABRE
Engine Mechanical problem
1997 Buick Lesabre 6 cyl Automatic 67,000 miles

My husband went down to the store when he came out to try to start the car, It wouldn't start. We figured that it was the starter, so he replaced that, but still won't start. When you turn the key to the start position all the lights come on and the radio, ac etc. What could this problem be?
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Thursday, August 6th, 2020 AT 9:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Pick your symptom:

**Cranks but no start condition:

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine at least 3/16 away from ground -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs, coil's resistances, distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it.

**No crank at all/nothing/nada when key is engage to starting position

Could be the starter, starter relay, park and neutral switch/transmission position switch and ignition switch assuming the battery and connections are good. Note:If it doesn't apply disregard.
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Thursday, August 6th, 2020 AT 9:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TISHTRISH
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
We are now thinking it might be that the security system got tripped. Because the security light blinks when you try starting the car. Have you ever heard of this before?
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Thursday, August 6th, 2020 AT 9:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TISHTRISH
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
I found out that the problem was that a wire snapped on the lock solenoid.
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Thursday, August 6th, 2020 AT 9:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
OFFWORLD
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
  • 1997 BUICK LESABRE
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 80,000 MILES
Car won't start. Engine does not turn. No clicking sounds from starter (possibly one click when ignition is turned). Battery is old but seems good. Lights are bright and do NOT dim when ignition is turned. Tried starting with battery charger/boost 30amp on. Still no start. Over the past month, noticed delay between turning ignition and starter engaging. Instead of starting immediately, it seemed to take a second or two before the starter responded. Hard to recall, but it seems delay became slightly longer over time.

#1. Where is the starter located on this engine. Front towards the radiator, or rear towards the cabin?

#2. How do I determine it's definitely the starter? I have a volt-ohm meter. What does bridging the connections on the solenoid do? How do I test/eliminate the ignition switch and neutral safety switch?

Thanks
Jack
jturner4@hotmail. Com
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Thursday, August 6th, 2020 AT 9:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 19,053 POSTS
Starter front by radiator
has two terminals on it large and small
big one has to have battery volts at all times
also the small wire should have battery volts only when you try to start
if u jump the two terminals together the starter should activate
and turn the engine
also check your fluids
oil and coolant
let me know
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Thursday, August 6th, 2020 AT 9:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
OFFWORLD
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  • 8 POSTS
OK, removed plastic skid shield and see starter. Seems doable. There appears to be a plastic shield/cradle under the starter that needs to be removed before I can get to one of the bolts. I made a connection between the small wire solenoid connector and the + battery connection. The starter turned. What, if anything, does that prove?

How do I test to see if the ignition switch or neutral safety switch are NOT the problem before I go pulling out the starter? I'm guessing I connect the volt meter to the small solenoid wire and turn on the ignition, but I'm a little fuzzy on the + - connections and the reading I'm supposed to get.

Thanks for your help,
Jack
jturner4@hotmail. Com
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Thursday, August 6th, 2020 AT 9:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 19,053 POSTS
When you made the connection and starter turn that tells the starter may be OK
so we need to find why if any the signal not reaching the starter from the ignition switch
so with a volts meter black lead on the ground (_)
and the red lead on the small starter terminal
try to crank you should have battery volts
if no volts look at the top of the tranny for a plug with 4or 5 wires
unplug it and with the red lead check if you have a battery volts when starting
you should on one wire
if you do you need the N/S switch
let me know
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Thursday, August 6th, 2020 AT 9:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
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  • 8 POSTS
Will check it out tomorrow. I'm doing this on my own, so I need to run wires from the solenoid to my meter leads so I can read it when turning on ignition. I'm using solid 12 gauge wire. Tried it earlier today, got a zero reading volts on the meter. Not 100% sure my connections were tight. Will try again.

Unclear on testing the neutral switch. I think I found it. Passenger side, near cabin, looking down near the brake master cylinder. 2 connectors, one with 4 or 5 wires and another connector with 7 wires. Looks like 2 bolts connecting it to transmission and a linkage on top. What do I disconnect, _where_ do I put + lead, and what does it mean voltage/no voltage?

BTW, disconnected battery earlier today. Now have SECURITY blinking when ignition is turned to ON. Is this a problem that will prevent STARTING? How do I reset SECURITY?

Thanks
Jack
jturner4@hotmail. Com
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Thursday, August 6th, 2020 AT 9:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
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I always found it easier to use a test light instead of the volts meter
you right on the N/S switch location if you need wiring let me know
security : turn key on attempt to start and leave key on for about 10 min the security light stop blinking
key off you may have to do it 3 times over
good luck let me know
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Thursday, August 6th, 2020 AT 9:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
OFFWORLD
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Connected about 36" 12 gauge solid wire to small solenoid cable. Attached volt meter. Turned ignition switch, got a reading of (negative) -0.03. Got similar reading in neutral, and by just applying brakes with ignition off. Turned on 30amp battery booster and tried again. Turned ignition on and got a positive reading of +0.07. Tested with test light (ignition on) .... no light.

Can I assume the solenoid is not getting power and my problem is either the neutral switch or ignition switch? How do I test the neutral switch? I've removed the 2 connectors, but need guidance on which leads I test.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/86488_neutralB_1.jpg


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/86488_neutralA_1.jpg



Thanks for your help,
Jack
jturner4@hotmail.com
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Thursday, August 6th, 2020 AT 9:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TUTY2386
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 1997 BUICK LESABRE
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 133,000 MILES
I have a 97 buick lesabre 3800 133000 miles the car turns on when itcold but when I drive it for a while it will not start it feels like the battery is dead and it doesn't send enough power to the stater. I changed the starter, battery, and alternator and it still does the same thing I will not even crank, it only cranks in the morning and real weak. I tested the battery and it's good what can it be?
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Thursday, August 6th, 2020 AT 9:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 19,053 POSTS
Before we go any further
do you still have security light on and blinking
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Thursday, August 6th, 2020 AT 9:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
IMPALASS
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,112 POSTS
Hello -

First to better assist you, is the 8th digit of your VIN K and is this a Lesabre Custom or Limited?

So you and I are saying the same thing I need to ask a couple of questions.

When you say it turns on when it is cold..... Are you saying - when you turn the key to start it, the engine turns over just fine. Nice and strong, no odd noises, starts right up.

Once you drive it and go to start it - you turn the key to start it but it acts like the battery is dead and the engine barely turns over - really slow?

So then do you jump start it and it starts up just fine with jumper cables or you have to wait a while?

Have you tried jumping it with cables when it does this and if so what does it do?

After you changed the battery, alternator and starter you said it won't crank. Now does this mean you turn the key and it is totally dead... No noise, no engine turning over or does this mean you turn the key and the motor turns but it doesn't start?

I know you tested the battery but do me a favor... First thing in the morning based off what you say. Please go to Auto Zone or O'Reilly's and for FREE they can pull the codes to the car. Most important: Once they check your codes, if they find something and you don't get it fixed and need to get back with us, please make sure you tell us exactly what the code was, number and all. Example, if the code was E0568 O2 Sensor bad. Then make sure you give us all of that. While there for FREE also they can bring their tester out and check your battery, alternator and starter. This is important as they can check all together to see how they are working together.

When was the last time you did a tune up... Plugs, wires, fuel filter?

We don't need to do a fuel pressure check yet based off of your code, but we may need to later.

Please do the above and provide the information requested and we can take it from there.
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Thursday, August 6th, 2020 AT 9:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
OFFWORLD
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  • 8 POSTS
Before we go any further
do you still have security light on and blinking

Yes, SECURITY light is still blinking. Should I have fixed that before testing the solenoid connection? Does SECURITY block the power?

If I leave the key ON for 10 minutes, won't that run down the battery (lights are always on when the key is ON).

_Jack_
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Thursday, August 6th, 2020 AT 9:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TUTY2386
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
The car turns on in the morning but real week after I drive it the motor turns and then it just stops turning I tried jumping it and it doesnt do anything I got stuck in autozone when I took the battery to get checked and they said battery is good and the only sensors that show bad are the mass flow sensor and the 02 sensor and now the car doesnt turn on the last time I gave it a tune up was 5 months ago when I changed the control module
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Thursday, August 6th, 2020 AT 9:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
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Put every thing back
and let s get the security issue solved 1st
do u have a chip on the ignition key
if so do you have a different key that you can use lets try that
leaving the key on for ten min may not work on your car sorry I was thinking different system
check all the fuses with key on and with key off
check fuse # 7 located behind right side of dash
check air back /vats fuse left side

clean the key and the ignition cylinder
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Thursday, August 6th, 2020 AT 9:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
IMPALASS
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,112 POSTS
Hello - tuty2386

so I can make sure I am giving you the best possible service and help, I really need you to answer my questions in the way that I ask them. The big problem is I am not there to see, hear, or feel, all the things the car is doing. Since you and I look at things different and use different words for different things... We need to get to where we are saying the same thing. That way I can help you better. I don't want to let you down here. I also ask questions in a certain way to help me better understand what the car is doing in certain situations and how all the components are working together. That is another reason I need them answered the way I ask. Also, I am referring to technical manuals so some of the information is to work through those to again, provide you with the info you need. So I am sorry I am not understanding certain things you say, so if you could help me that would be great.

Let's kind of review - you can actually copy and paste my questions and then answer them underneath.

First to better assist you, is the 8th digit of your vin k and is this a le sabre a custom or limited?

On you first and last post - I am probably looking at it wrong, but it looks like you are telling me something different for the morning start. I am going to copy your posts and ask my questions at different spots. All you have to do is answer after my questions. What I did if you notice next to what you said I put "tuty2386---" that way you will know this is what you said and what I am asking or saying is underneath each area.

Tuty2386---i have a 97 buick lesabre 3800 133000 miles the car turns on when itcold

you turn the key to start the car and the engine turns over and starts first thing in the morning. Right?

Does the engine sound good and strong?

Tuty2386---but when I drive it for a while it will not start it feels like the battery is dead and it doesn't send enough power to the stater.

After you drove it and it was warm, you shut it off to do something. When you tried to start it, you turned the key to start it, the motor turned over really slow like the battery was dead and the car never started. Right?

Tuty2386--- I changed the starter, battery, and alternator and it still does the same thing.

By the same thing, you turn the key, the motor turns over really slow and never starts?

Or, you turn the key, the motor turns over normal speed but never starts?

Why did you change the battery, alternator and starter at the same time?

Did someone check them out and tell you they were all 3 bad?

Tuty2386--- I will not even crank,

do you mean, you turn the key and the dash lights come on but there is not noise?

The engine does not turn over at all.

Tuty2386---it only cranks in the morning and real weak.

If you answered the questions above, then this will be answered based off of them.

Tuty2386---i tested the battery and it's good what can it be?

How did you test it? Did you take it out of the car and took it somewhere?

Did you leave it in the car and it was tested in the car?

Okay, your next post.

Tuty2386---the car turns on in the morning but real week

on your first post you said it started in the morning. So now is it getting worse?

Now when you turn the key to start it, the motor turns over really slow, not at normal speed?

The car does start - just the motor turns really slow when starting.

Tuty2386---after I drive it the motor turns andthen it just stopsturning

you drove it, turned the key to start it, the dash lights came on, the motor turned over not at normal speed, but really slow.

Then it finally stopped turning totally. There was no noise, no movement?

Tuty2386---i tried jumping it and it doesnt do anything I got stuck in autozone

you tired to jump start it, you turned the key on to start it, the dash lights came on but the engine did not turn over, make any noise at all. It just sat there. Dead.

How did you get it going to leave auto zone?

Tuty2386---when I took the battery to get checked and they said battery is good

did you remove the battery from the car or have it checked in the car?

Tuty2386---and the only sensors that show bad are the massflow sensor and the 02 sensor

okay, that's good - we got something. That's great! Ma'am I am sorry to say you forgot to do as I requested and get the code numbers. There are thousands of code numbers. You also have about 4 o2 sensors on this model I believe. At about $65.00 each or more depending on where you buy it, lord knows we don't want to waste any money. The code would tell me which one. Is it possible to have the codes read again so you can tell me the code numbers and what they say they mean?

As for the mass flow sensor, that too can throw maybe three codes, dtc p0101, dtc p0102, or dtc p0103. Now, this sensor can be easily contaminated causing hard starting, rough idle, hesitation and stalling problems. So to me, change it.

Tuty2386---and now the car doesnt turn

do you mean, you turn the key, the dash lights come on and everything is dead. No noise, the motor doesn't spin, turn over at all?

Tuty2386---on the last time I gave it a tune up was 5 months ago

what did you do for your tune up? Did you change the plugs, wires, air filter, fuel fileter? What exactly did you do?

Did you do a tune up becase of this problem or it was just time?

Tuty2386---when I changed the control module

are you talking about the ignition control module?

Why did you change that?

Okay ma;am... How about this. Change the mass airflow sensor. Auto zone has them.

While there picking up the sensor, I think the car is drivable - yes? If so, I know you tested the battery but do me a favor... First thing in the morning based off what you say. Please go to auto zone and for free they can bring their tester out and check your battery, alternator and starter. This is important as they can check all together to see how they are working together while they are in the car.

Also, very important - for free they can pull the codes to the car. Most important: once they check your codes, if they find something and you don't get it fixed and need to get back with us, please make sure you tell us exactly what the code was, number and all. Example, if the code was e0568 o2 sensor bad. Then make sure you give us all of that.

Then, answer all my questions as best as possible the way I asked them.

Thanks for working with me on this
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Thursday, August 6th, 2020 AT 9:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
OFFWORLD
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Put every thing back
and let s get the security issue solved 1st
do u have a chip on the ignition key
if so do you have a different key that you can use lets try that
leaving the key on for ten min may not work on your car sorry I was thinking different system
check all the fuses with key on and with key off
check fuse # 7 located behind right side of dash
check air back /vats fuse left side

clean the key and the ignition cylinder
.
Yes, there is a chip on the key.
Yes, I have a second key. I tried it earlier, but possibly after the SECURITY problem.
I checked the IGN SWC fuses (60 amp) earlier, they looked OK.
My fuses are under hood on firewall. 2 boxes of 6-8 fuses each. Plus 5 or 6 large square (relays?) Below.
Do I have more fuses inside the car?
What is fuse #7?
What is air back /vats fuse left side?
Is this SECURITY thing fixable?

_Jack_
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Thursday, August 6th, 2020 AT 9:38 AM (Merged)

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