Car won't start?

I had an identical problem with a 1997 Dodge Intrepid - solution turned out to be a fuel pump replacement.

This is after hundreds of $$$ in diagnostics, fuel filter and replacement of all four O2 sensors. Which did not help at all.

Car is running perfect for a year now after the fuel pump replacement!

Hi,
Recently this car overheated and shortly thereafter (30 Minutes) suddenly just stopped dead. Had to tow it 250 miles home.
I've replaced the CPS. It gets spark to the plugs, fuel pressure is good.

Will NOT start even with starting fluid sprayed into the intake while cranking. No correct firing at all. Once in a while a random backfire, but not often. Just acts as if there is no spark, however there IS. Fuel pump replaced less than 4 months ago and pressure is GOOD.

Car was running beautifully when over heating was noticed. I immediately added coolant and it ran for another half hour, then suddenly NOTHING. Heard that the CPS can often be damaged by overheating so replaced it.

I've worked on cars for 40 years and I'm truly baffled.
Any help would be appreciated!
BK

Yes the compresssion is good.
The car has had excellent maintenance, etc. I've never had a situation where there is fuel present and spark with virtually no indication of even random firing. Even if the timiing was ramdom, false firing should happen. Still investigating when I have the time. The car has become a driveway ornament for the time being.

Car won't start. I replaced battery about 3 months ago. When I turn ignition; lights, radio, etc. Operate as usual, but the engine makes no sound to turn ov er (i.E., I don't think it's the battery).

There is periods of time the vehicle will not start is it a problem with the engine or a problem with a starter

I had diagnostic done, no problems with the sensors as far as readings etc.
No vacuum leaks, no bad connections, no codes pending or stored.
Car starts right up when it is cold, once engine is warm it will immediately shut off when it is started a few times before it finally stays running, the tach will fluctuate between 1000 and 1500RPM a few times before it settles at around 700, after that it runs perfectly and drives great. If I let it sit until engine is cold it will again start and run great 1st try.
Fuel pressure is right on the money. Everyone who has tried to figure it out is stumped, was also told that if it was the PCM the car would never run right.

Brand new upper intake was installed and throttle body is like new.
There are no leaks anywhere

I could check the sensors, it is worth a shot.
I can get the values to go by for the resistance.
If I hold the gas a tiny bit when I start it it will stay running.
I changed the IAC and TPS and they test good.

It had a problem last month with fuel pressure, the pump was shot and I ended up getting a new tank, sending unit with the pump, filler neck, fuel filter and pressure regulator, I opened a can of worms with the rust that was on the old stuff.
The regulator was changed because the old one was malfunctioning.
I know the sensors can be bad even without a code, I ran into that with the MAF. The garage initially told me to change the TPS because with very little pressure on pedal it will stay running, you release and it goes to 700RPM. It is a very nice running engine, tons of pickup and smooth. Only issue is starting, I am not an expert by far but it almost seems like the PCM is not picking up the initial pulse from the crank sensor to start the firing order and holding the pedal a little gets the engine to stay on long enough for it to catch up. Probably way off but it is an educated guess anyway lol.

To add to the already screwed up car, it has 3 new premium quality coils, new bosh premium wires and irridium spark plugs, the PCM is not reporting a misfire but there is one, engine is running a little bit rough and you can hear the miss when you are at the back of the car. It is running on all 6 and has power.

I exchanged the plug wires for new ones under warranty, seems to have gotten rid of the misfire.
No one can tell me why the car will not stay running when I start it warm, with all of the work done it will no longer shoot up to high idle or fluctuate much on the tach but unless I put a little pressure on the gas it will not keep running when it is started warm. After about 10 seconds I can release gas and it runs fine until next time I have to start it again. Always starts fine cold.
No check engine light, no vacuum leaks, no bad connections, fuel pressure is where it should be, plenty of power. Everyone is stumped, the only thing that it could be is a bad PCM I am being told. I looked at the PCM there is a little panel with 2 hex screws, is that where the chip is to switch to a new PCM?