Overheating

Tiny
PCC1956
  • MEMBER
  • 2010 FORD TRANSIT
  • 2.0L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 115,769 MILES
Van started overheating had Ford replace water pump. Lasted fifty miles. Started over heating again. Replaced thermo and both up and low radiator hoses still overheats. Seems like air trapped in system. Was road testing with scanner reading coolant temperature heater was on high heat coolant temperature 212f air coming from dash hot then all of the sudden temperature shot to 234f and air from dash went cold. Three minutes passed and it reversed back ro 212f and hot air it did this about six times. I got home and shut it off. This morning the reservoir is full and under pressure prior to the coolant level was spot on. Earlier did block test no exhaust gas in coolant. Did pressure test held 20osi for twenty minutes. Any idea what could be the problem? Forty five years of diy and in lost. Help!
Do you
have the same problem?
Yes
No
Tuesday, August 14th, 2018 AT 10:54 AM

20 Replies

Tiny
PATENTED_REPAIR_PRO
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,853 POSTS
I see this has a cooling fan clutch. Let's check it and see if it is bad. Raise the hood so you can see the fan or better yet have someone else start the engine, let it warm up, then shut off the engine and count how many times the fan spins before it stops. It should be three to five times, if it just free wheels then the fan clutch is bad.
If the fan checks out ok and you suspect maybe some air trapped and there is no air bleed, you could try jacking up the front side where the radiator or degas cap is so after jacking it is higher than the rest of the cooling system. Then remove the radiator cap, start the engine allow it to warm up, then with the coolant level topped off grab the top radiator hose with both hands, pinch the hose down as far as you can without pushing the hose into a moving fan, etc, then with both hands squeeze real hard and push any air out of the filler neck. Do this a few times, then shut off the engine. Lower it down and put the cap back on and see if it stops overheating.
If this has a degas bottle and that is what I am seeing, then they usually do a good job of bleeding and also if this has electric fans, make sure they both run when the engine gets warm.

Check out this guide is should help
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, August 14th, 2018 AT 12:37 PM
Tiny
YONGKPAK
  • MEMBER
  • 0 POST
I had this problem lefited the rear of the vehicle and run it to get the air out BTW
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
-1
Friday, January 3rd, 2020 AT 4:05 PM
Tiny
TRANSITTIPPER
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2010 FORD TRANSIT
  • 2.4L
  • TURBO
  • RWD
  • MANUAL
  • 100,000 MILES
Hi there I have a ford transit tipper 2010 2.4rwd over heating problems

Sometimes I can be sitting at 70mph for about 40 mins it will got right up to 120degrees and when u slow down it goes back to normal it only seems to do it when your at higher gears but today I was in 3rd gear with weight on the back going up a sligh hill for a few minutes it went right up to 120degrees again but the engine never seems to cut out? And sometimes you could sit at 70mph for hours and it wouldn't do it very weird!

I have replaced the radiator, water pump, and thermostat.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, January 3rd, 2020 AT 4:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CATAFINA
  • MECHANIC
  • 168 POSTS
Why don't you try burping it and see what happens
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, January 3rd, 2020 AT 4:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,606 POSTS
Try a new radiator cap as it's cheap is it continues have the coolant system pressure checked for ahead gasket.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, January 3rd, 2020 AT 4:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
STELLAE6408
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2011 FORD TRANSIT
  • 0.5L
  • 4 CYL
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 245,000 MILES
My van is overheating while idling. The gauge goes to hot but not all the way to hot then it comes back to the original spot. The radiator, water hose, heater hose and thermostat have been replaced. First time this happened we notice coolant on garage floor. Radiator was changed. I have not notice anymore coolant on the ground.
What is the problem?
Thank you
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, January 3rd, 2020 AT 4:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HOMER1967
  • MECHANIC
  • 875 POSTS
I would say either you have a cooling fan issue, a water pump issue or need a coolant flush. When does it overheat? Sitting still, going down the road, riding thru town?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
-1
Friday, January 3rd, 2020 AT 4:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HENRIC
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2006 FORD TRANSIT
Air Conditioning problem
2006 Ford Transit 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Manual

Hi
I have a transit torneo with a/c front and rear. The rear heating comes on full by itself, when the control is set to cold.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, January 3rd, 2020 AT 4:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DAVE H
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,383 POSTS
Start by having the freon level checked
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Friday, January 3rd, 2020 AT 4:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JOHN64
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2004 FORD TRANSIT
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 250,000 MILES
My 04 2.4cdi transit is overheating and cutting out on the thermal trip on motorways but fine in slow traffic. We have serviced it and changed thermostat it is not using water.

Water level is at max with no water lost.
Radiator looks ok fins in reasonable condition.
Most likely to cut off when on motorway at 70 or climbing hills.
The temperature gauge moves rapidly to red cuts off engine, then rapidly returns to normal and runs ok. Note the water level had expanded when van had got hot.

Just flushed rad, water that was in system was clear no rust or large pieces of muck. Good flow of water through rad using a hose from tap.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, January 3rd, 2020 AT 4:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
The coolant efficiency is not up to specs which are mostly due to clogged radiators, thermostat not opening fully or closing, clogging of water passages, weak water pump or cooling fan.

If flushing is by means of using a water hose to run water through, it is not the correct way. The top or bottom tank has to come off and the fins checked visually and cleared. If 40 % of the core is clogged, the water running through it would still be fast. Some radiators gets clogged up not due to rust or muck. Chemical reactions from mixing different brands/types of coolant would clog radiator cores and the end result would be enamel like substances that are very hard and impossible to be removed. The only solution for such cases is to replace the radiator.

Did you check the radiator cooling fns for clogging? Insufficient air being drawn past the radiator can result in overheating, especialy under load conditions.

Apart from the radiator, is the cooling fan drawing strong air when running?

The overheating would cause the water tank to expand.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, January 3rd, 2020 AT 4:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JOHN64
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Hi
good news found the fault, thought the information might be helpful if you get asked about this type of fault again.
The impeller in the waterpump had become unsecured from the fanbelt drive so at low revs the impeller spin but at higher revs the impeller was freewheeing so at low revs it worked but when reving high it was slipping and overheating causing the overheat to cut engine.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+6
Friday, January 3rd, 2020 AT 4:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
Thank you for the input.

Glad to know you have fixed the problem.

Have a nice day.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+2
Friday, January 3rd, 2020 AT 4:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CASPER75
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
I have a major problem - broke down in Spain last week with sudden overheating. My van is Ford Transit 2.4 turbo diesel 05', was away to Malaga with delivery and noticed that the engine temperature started to rise sharply once during my 2000km journey from Calais, however, didn't reach the maximum temperature and sharply went back to normal again. When offloaded in Malaga started my way back the following day, after 30 miles going up a hill temperature rised to maximum very quickly and engine lost the power - I stopped, switched it off and after a minute it was fine again - temperature showing normal and I continued my way for another 60 miles. Temperature rised a few times but not till the maximum, then suddenly it went to 120 degrees in 10 seconds (again against a hill), engine shut down and I stopped at the nearest parking. I checked the coolant bay - the level was normal, when I opened the lid - there was no major pressure coming, no leaks, no oil in the coolant. I stayed over the night in the nearest hotel and went to Granada Ford garage the following morning. They were not sure were was the problem as they tested my van in the town and temperature stayed normal, there were no leaks or oil in the coolant. They said they need to change the temperature sensor, then the termostat, then - fan itself - it was just guessing all the time. I spent two days waiting for this to be done and on the last day when the fan was changed they went on a test drive onto the motorway - it happened again the same way going against a hill. Now, they say the headgasket needs to be changed and looking for nearly 3000 Euro to do this - I'm sure they only guessing again! The van itself costed me less than this price and I think because they can't find the problem, they are changing all they can imagine could possibly cause this. I know that with headgasket there should be other simptoms also like oil in coolant, white smoke, some leakage and big pressure build ups, none of these are present in my case. Please help with some ideas what to do because I feel they held me a hostage over this situation!
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, January 3rd, 2020 AT 4:07 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
Symptoms indicates you possibly has a loose connection somewhere or a faulty gauge and not an overheating issue.

Recheck body gound circuits and ensure they are clean and secure.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
-1
Friday, January 3rd, 2020 AT 4:07 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CASPER75
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
The problem is that the van is in the garage and they won't let me deal with it myself - it's like they are just playing a guessing game - replacing more and more parts with the headgasket now costing me thousands
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, January 3rd, 2020 AT 4:07 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
This doesn't look good. They need your authorisation for anything major and if it is going to cost a bomb, you can always get them to release your vehicle. The same applies if they can't resolve your problem.

Tlak to the manager and explain to him what you wish to do from here on.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, January 3rd, 2020 AT 4:07 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PHILIP WOLFSBERG
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
Hi. This sounds almost identical to the issues I have with my 2007 LR Defender (Ford Puma 2.4 TDCi engine).
Have you been able to solve the problem?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, September 11th, 2021 AT 5:45 AM
Tiny
PCC1956
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Hello Philip. Yes, I solved the problem after getting the owner to come clean and tell me what happened before he brought it to me. The van was used tow a trailer loaded with a heavy piece of equipment from California to the east coast then back to California on the way back to California it started overheating in Illinois. So the driver instead of stopping when this started and having the van towed to a repair shop for repair he kept on driving and would add water when the temp gauge would be pegged all the way hot. After doing this a dozen times he called the owner to let him know so it was taken to a Ford dealer where they changed the water pump and sent him on his way. They didn't check anything else. 30 miles down the road it started overheating again so the driver decided to load up a ton of water and limp the van home. I found the heater hoses and a 1"coolant return line had an inner and outer rubber layer where the inner layer came apart plugging the radiator and heater core it also collected in the head and block coolant passages which resulted in many overheating cycles, a cracked head and blown head gasket. I replaced all cooling system components, degas bottle, pressure cap, water pump, thermostat, radiator, all rubber hoses, heater core and the cylinder head. Sorry for the long reply I felt it necessary for anyone reading it to understand what the van went through before it was properly repaired. The van is still on the road today trouble free.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, September 11th, 2021 AT 7:52 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 107,922 POSTS
Hi,

Thank you for the update. I'm sure it will help others.

Take care and feel free to come back anytime in the future.

Joe
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, September 13th, 2021 AT 8:24 PM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links