2005 Kia Sedona car keeps losing battery power

Tiny
TKONEAL
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 KIA SEDONA
  • 120,750 MILES
I have replaced the alternator, serpentine to air conditioning and alternator, and the battery all within the last 2 weeks. The battery was put in today, and I put a new starter in yesterday. Today the brand new battery is already drained. What can be the problem even with all new alternator and battery?
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Sunday, August 25th, 2013 AT 2:05 PM

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Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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LET'S SORTA START OUT EZ.......I WANT YOU TO READ THIS LINK I'M GIVING YOU.......AND THERE IS A LINK INSIDE OF IT (WITH PICS AT THE BOTTOM), READ IT AS WELL!.............THIS IS WHAT I SEE THE MOST AS BEING THE "NO START" ISSUE

http://www.2carpros.com/questions/1986-ford-f-350-starting-issues
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IF THAT DON'T GET IT..........READ THE REST OF MY NOVEL BELOW!

I HAVE A FRIEND NAMED RICK, HE HAS A 2009 FORD F-250.....AND A '86 JEEP CJ 7 (WHICH IS THE BEST VEHICLE ANYONE COULD HAVE)

HIS F-250 STARTED DRAINING BOTH OF IT'S BATTERIES OVERNIGHT

AFTER A WEEK OF RECHARGING EACH DAY, HE WAS READY TO TAKE IT TO THE DEALER.....THEN HE TALKED WITH ME

WHAT HE HAD, WAS A "PARASITIC DRAIN" MEANING, SOMETHING IS DRAWING POWER (ACTUALLY DRAWING MORE), MORE THAN NORMAL...THERE ARE "NORMAL" PARASITIC DRAINS---LIKE THE MEMORY FOR YOUR RADIO...OTHER LITTLE STUFF TOO

YOU TUBE MAY PROVIDE YOU WITH SEVERAL DIFFERENT WAYS TO GO ABOUT TESTING "PARASITIC DRAIN" --WHICH ALSO DEPENDS ON WHAT SORTA "TEST STUFF" YOU HAVE OR CAN GET INEXPENSIVELY....LIKE A VOLTMETER

BEING THAT HE HAD A DIESEL USING 2 BATTERIES, WE SORTA TOOK THE CLAMPS LOOSE FROM ONE BATTERY AND "JUMPER WIRED" THEM TO THE OTHER BATTERY'S CLAMPS............THIS IS NOT NECESSARY WITH JUST ONE BATTERY IN A VEHICLE

THIS NEXT PART IS GONNA BE SORTA GENERIC YOU WILL GET THE INFO IN THE LINK

WE REMOVED THE NEGATIVE CLAMP FROM THE REMAINING "STILL HOOKED UP BATTERY"WE THEN SET THE VOLTMETER TO THE PROPER SETTING...."MILLI-AMPS"----AND USING ALLIGATOR TYPE JUMPERS---WE HOOKED ONE VOLTMETER LEAD TO THE NEG BATTERY POST----THE OTHER VOLTMETER LEAD GOT HOOKED ON THE "HANGING" NEG BATTERY CLAMP

SO....ANYTHING ELECTRIC DRAWING OFF OF THE BATTERY MUST GO THRU THE VOLTMETER--NOW ACTING LIKE A BATTERY CABLE

NOTE----THE VOLTMETER HAS SMALL GAUGE WIRE---IT CANNOT HANDLE SOMETHING DONE "STUPIDLY"--LIKE TRYING TO CRANK UP THE VEHICLE!!!.....SO DON'T!

THE METER IS PRESENTLY DETECTING SMALL POWER DRAWS----NOT INTENDED TO RUN ALL OF YOUR ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

EVERY BODY HAS THEIR OWN #'S AS TO "ACCEPTABLE DRAW".............I WAS SORTA TAUGHT .05 ma....IF YOU HAVE A NON-NORMAL DRAW, IT'S PROBABLY GONNA BE A 1. SOMETHING, OR GREATER ( EX 1.2 , 1.4 , 2.3).......A DOME LIGHT MAY KICK IT ON UP TO OVER 2

OK WE WE'RE ALL HOOKED UP---WE REMOVED HIS HOOD LAMP AND DOME LIGHT IN THE CAB, AS THEY DRAW TOO!(WE HAD TO HAVE THE HOOD AND DOOR OPEN THE WHOLE TIME TO ACCESS "BOTH" OF HIS FUSE PANELS)......THERE WERE OVER 75 FUSES IN THIS TRUCK!

HIS DRAW WAS SORTA WEIRD??????....IT WOULD DRAW---THEN IT WOULD STOP---OVER AND OVER CONTINUOUSLY

WE STARTED PULLING FUSES---THIS SHOULD "MAKE IT DROP TO NORMAL LEVEL", ONCE WE PULL THE RIGHT ONE, WHICH HAS SOMETHING DRAWING ON THAT --SPECIFIC--CIRCUIT

I DIDN'T MAKE IT THAT FAR---I FELT A CIRCUIT BREAKER CLICKING ON AND OFF WITH MY FINGER AS I MESSED WITH THE FUSES

WE INVESTIGATED IT---THE CIRCUIT BREAKER WAS FOR THE POWER SEAT.......CIRCUIT!!! (SEVERAL THINGS ARE IN THE CIRCUIT)

WE FOUND THAT, EVEN THOUGH IT WAS SOOOO MINUTE, THE SEAT WAS ALREADY AS FAR REARWARD AS IT WOULD TRAVEL.......IT MADE NO RACKET AT ALL

......BUT THE RELAY DIDN'T CARE!

WE MADE IT "STOP" BY UNPLUGGING THE SEAT MOTOR.......BUT THAT WAS NOT THE "FIX"!

THE RELAY'S CONTACTS HAD SORTA "WELDED" THEMSELVES TOGETHER (STUCK TOGETHER) INSIDE THE RELAY THEY SHOULD ONLY TOUCH WHEN THE SWITCH IS ACTIVATED, IN OTHER WORDS THE RELAY WAS BROKE IN THE "ON POSITION"---INSTEAD OF THE "OFF POSITION"

SOOO...WHAT WAS HAPPENING WAS---THE SEAT WAS BACK---THE RELAY MADE THE MOTOR TRY TO SHOVE IT FURTHER---THE MOTOR WOULD HEAT THE CIRCUIT ('CAUSE IT WAS IN A BIND)--THE CIRCUIT BREAKER WOULD TRIP (MILLI-AMPS WOULD DROP) IT WOULD COOL OFF---CIRCUIT BREAKER WOULD COME BACK ON...HENCE, THE "WEIRD" OFF/ON DRAW----THEN IT WOULD START OVER AGAIN TRYING TO SHOVE THE SEAT BACK

YOU COULD NOT HEAR THE SEAT MOTOR AS IT COULD NOT TURN AT ALL MAYBE IF I THUMPED THE RELAY, IT WOULD HAVE COME "UN-STUCK"???? (I DID'T TRY) I HAPPENED TO FEEL THE FAINT CLICK OF THE BREAKER

WE SORTA NARROWED IT TO EITHER THE SWITCH OR THE RELAY----THE RELAY WAS CHEAPER AND EZier TO INSTALL

WE WE'RE RIGHT WITH THE CALL!

I'M NOT SAYING THIS IS YOU PROBLEM---JUST SHOWING YOU HOW COMPLICATED THINGS CAN BE! IT MAY BE A SIMPLE AS THE HOOD LIGHT NOT GOING OFF WHEN YOU SHUT THE HOOD!

PLEASE RETURN WITH A BIG OLE GRIN!

LET ME KNOW HOW IT GOES

IF YOU CAN NARROW IT DOWN TO A CERTAIN CIRCUIT, I MAY BE ABLE TO GET YOU A WIRING DIAGRAM FROM "MITCHELL I" OF THAT SYSTEM......THIS WILL LET YOU SEE ANYTHING IN THE SYSTEM THAT COULD CAUSE A PARASITIC DRAW

THE MEDIC
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Sunday, August 25th, 2013 AT 8:08 PM

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