Battery light always on?

Great response. That is exactly the information I was looking for. Now, is
there a place that I can monitor the voltages at refs #3 and #10 to know
for sure? It looks like I can probe at the fusebox for ref #3 but probably
can't find where to probe #10. If I could find a place to probe #1 I could
monitor it with a scope and see what is happening.

On my old Dodge Caravan I could hook my OBDII reader to laptop and read
program memory and find the stored values when someone published the
locations online. With the more modern cars I can't find any such info
(and my old spec 9141 interface won't read cars after 2007 anyway).

Since the circuit consists of only alternator, battery, TIPM, and PCM
and all was good until alternator failed, it seems to me the new alternator
is the problem. According to Advance Auto Parts it is the correct one and
the specs published online indicate that.

Most valuable to me would be would be a wiring diagram showing the wires
and connector pin numbers were I could probe.

Alternator and battery have been replaced. All fuses have been checked. Battery terminals are new. All the cables are connected. Why is the battery light still on?

I had my battery light come on while driving. Removed the battery. Had it tested. Tested good, full charge 12.8v. Replaced in vehicle light off. Drove vehicle 10 miles, light comes back on. Stopped Popped hood, used my voltmeter I had put in the van and checked battery voltage on the plus minus posts. 14.4v. I did not lose power steering etc, which would be serpentine issue if I did.

14.4v with the battery light on. With clean and tight battery terminals. However, the town country only has the idiot battery light. When I scroll through the cluster I get engine temperature, oil pressure and oil temperature (transmission temperature would make more sense, ) and there is not a voltage reading. Idioc if you ask me. I put a voltmeter in the van thru the cigarette lighter. It is reading 14.38v for the most part with small fluctuations. I have it on the dash and will monitor and wait for the battery light to come back on. I will check alternator wires.

Coupled days ago car had shut off. Alternator and battery were both low. Put new battery and alternator in. Started up and ran fine. 15 minutes later, battery light is back on. Any ideas?

Replaced engine for customer. Had a bad piston in cylinder 6. Rest of swap went good and misfire is gone. However the battery light wont go off. The alternator is new. If I manually power the field the alternator charges but battery light remains. Wire has continuity to fuse panel. Grounds seem okay if I jump ground to alt or block it doesn't change anything. Alt is spinning and is putting out no power. Goes above 13v with field manually powered. Put another alternator in no difference. There is no interior fuse panel and all fuses seem okay in engine panel. I've also tried jumping directly to positive terminal of battery to alternator post.
Alternator is not charging at post without me manually engaging field.

Is it possible this diagram is wrong?
I seem to have blue yellow and black gray. I’m assuming this is just a discrepancy between sub models.

You’ll never believe; I realized the color difference and looked at the connectors I had the alternator and A/C compressor plugs mixed up. They’re keyed the same way and both fit on both connectors and are in same general area.
Thank you for your help.

Also, car threw no codes and ran perfect.

Just replaced alternator AGAIN two weeks ago, it was replaced originally one year ago. Now the battery light is coming on intermittently and I had it checked at three different places they say that both battery and alternator if functioning like it should -unclear why battery indicator comes on. HELP