I have not gotten around to the leak down test yet.
I did however decide to take the valve cover back off to check the timing marks at TDC. All of my original disassembly marks are still there including the marks I made on the crank pulley. I used a fluorescent pen to mark the position of the crank and both cam sprockets. I could easily verify that the intake and exhaust sprockets are aligned with the timing marks to the cam. However with the DELPHI" and cam flats parallel to the head, my original crank marks that I made during the disassembly were not lining up. When I rotated the crank so that the #1 piston is at top dead center and my original crank marks lined up, the flats on the end of the cam shafts and the "DELPHI" was not parallel to the head (rotated to right). It was obvious the chain was off one tooth on the crank.
I did not want to remove the front cover to correct this. What I did was move the chain back over on the crank sprocket one tooth to make the alignment good again. To do this I removed the exhaust sprocket completely and let the chain be loose. By using a coat hanger and allowing some slack on the intake side I was able to get the chain to just back into place. To get the amount of slack you need, you have to let the chain loose to go down below the crank sprocket. This allows the tensioner to go all the way out. I made sure my crank marks were aligned and the cam flats were parallel to the head. I also made sure there was not any extra slack in the chain between the crank sprocket and the intake sprocket after getting the chain back in the place on the crank sprocket.
Here is my details on the tensioner reset for the readers. To get the tensioner back in, you can fish a coat hanger do the front side of the timing chain compartment between the front wall and the chain guide and pull the lever and push the tensioner back in enough to get the exhaust sprocket back on. It s tight and you have to be in the perfect position to see the lever but it is doable. I recommend looking at some pictures of the tensioner online to see the locking lever mechanism on the side of the tensioner. There is a hole on one end; the left end of the lever when looking from the top. Bend the coat hanger so there is a 2mm wire hook sticking out at a right angle at the end. Don t make the hook too long as it will get stuck in the whole. Push the lever up and down a few times to make sure the tensioner is all the way out. Then pull it up (it should move pretty easily) and then pull on the chain tightly on the exhaust cam side to get the tensioner plunger to go back in. I also used the timing chain tool in the normal recommended holding position to help push the tensioner back in. With the tensioner back in and keeping the chain tight you can put the sprocket on with the timing marks aligned. Take the clothes hanger and try to get the tensioner to go back out. I think this is where I made one of my mistakes on the original reassembly. I didn t do this and remember the chain being a little loose between the crank sprocket and the exhaust sprocket.
I placed the old bolt back in the exhaust sprocket to rotate the engine two of three time to top dead center. Everything is now lining up. The cam flat and DELPHI are parallel to the head. At TDC my crank marks are lined up.
Today I will install the new exhaust cam bolt to specifications and reassemble everything. I also plan to check the compression again along the wat to see if it is any better. I will post the results as soon as possible.
As a side note I did check the rotation of the phaser on the end of the exhaust sprocket. I can only get it to move maybe 1/8 inch back and forth by hand. Is this correct?
Monday, September 19th, 2016 AT 6:16 AM