CENTER CONSOLE (RADIO/AC-FAN CONTROLS) ARE DEAD, AS WELL AS AUTOMATIC WINDOWS AND SPEEDOMETER
2004 Toyota 4Runner
October, 8, 2012 AT 11:45 PM
To close my windows are you saying I should apply a 12v hot wire to the #11 black wire on the door wiring harness as pictured?
When I did so, the windshield wipers started running?
Which specific wire do I apply power to in order to raise my windows? See pics.
October, 9, 2012 AT 8:50 AM
You have a power supply missing. Plug everything back in and turn the wiper off.
Check the AM-2 fuse underhood. Ensure you have battery voltage at both sides of the fuse.
The black wire that you apply voltage to to get the wiper moving is the one you that has missing battery voltage. When battery voltage was applied, you should have been able to close the windows.
October, 10, 2012 AT 6:02 AM
Last question as the truck may be going to the shop today. Do you think the alternator may have something to do with the issues at hand?
The 4Runner is idling at a very low 400-500 RPM nor is the alternator recharging the battery. It died today on me. I may be towing it directly to the shop but wondered if somehow the vehicle is wired so as to dissable all non-essential components with a bad alternator?
October, 10, 2012 AT 7:49 AM
Have you tested the AM-2 fuse? Excessively low engine rpm would cause non charging. A missing power supply to the alternator would cause that too.
I believe it is the fuses that is causing the problem at hand and the alternator could be a by-product of it. Low idling speed could be due to IAC not working correctly due to low voltage.
October, 10, 2012 AT 12:46 PM
I appreciated your help. The truck will be going to the shop today though.
1) The AM-2 fuse and every such fuse like it were inspected physically numerous times. I then checked each of those fuses no less than twice with my DVOM for continuity. I've checked standard fuses no less than four times the same manner. All fuses are good both under the hood and dash.
2) The low RPM is only with idling. I drove the vehicle for 25min on the Interstate which was plenty of RPM to charge the battery. After coming off the Interstate and stopping for a red light, the idle dropped down and truch shut off; new battery is dead.
October, 10, 2012 AT 1:21 PM
Visual inspection does not work. Did you test the fuse for battery voltage?
Since you are not going to continue guess I won't be needed again
Hav a nice day.
October, 11, 2012 AT 12:02 AM
Thanks for your help but I'm not sure how many times I've stated this.
1) I inspected every standard fuse in the following manner. A) I first inpected them visually by holding them to a light. It is very easy to spot a blown fuse this way and why they make them clear. B) Nonetheless, I removed each fuse and placed them into the door dinger circuit slot. Each fuse caused the dinger to sound off upon insertion, therefore no blown fuses. C) I also removed each fuse and checked "continuity" between the legs with my DVOM. All showed continuity, therefore no blown fuses. C) In addition to all the above, I checked battery votage on "each" leg of each fuse. Each leg of each standard fuse showed voltage; with the exception of a handfull. Those few exceptions were not due to a blown fuse though. I could never get battery power to read on a few circuits as noted. D) I also swapped out like fuses randomly on pertinent circuits. E) Lastly, numerous "pertinent" fuses and respective circuits were checked no less than half a dozen times each, in simply satisfying requests by you and a few others who were also helping troubleshoot.
2) The large 30amp, 40amp, and 50amp fuses were each checked for continuity with a DVOM. I checked every one of these a minimunm of 2 times each. I checked several "pertinent" ones 3 and 4 times each in again satisfying requests by others.
There are no dead fuses. I will post what the issue was after the dealership finishes the repair.
October, 11, 2012 AT 2:47 AM
Fuses could be good but the circuit might be dead. That is what I needed to verify in order to get to the source.