My heater is not working?

I recently had the coolant outlet flange(the housing on top of my engine that holds the tep guage for my coolant) snap in half. A part that was designed to fail if ever there was one. Since it snapped and I overheated a little I replaced the thermostat and then figured out my bottom radiator hose had a slow leak as well so I replaced it. The initial thermostat I bought wasn't opening so I had to replace it again. The coolant syatem is now back together and holding temp(although higher than before but I atribute this to the old guage being less accurate?) At highway speeds but I have absolutely no heat? Any thoughts why this might be so?

I did initally air lock thesystem I believe but have bled it repeatedly now. Should I completely drain the system and try again? I initially assumed I had air locked the system so have consiqueently bled it a couple times. Before the flange burst the system would regulate at 3 8 on the guage now it goes up to 3 4 and holds at 70 and then when I back down to 55 or below usually below 2000 rpm it modulates between a half and 3 4 on the guage.

The engine has antifreeze and the antifreeze reserve tank is full. Had some new hoses put in last year around the intake and radiator. There is no heat coming out, it just shoots out cold air when trying to defrost the windows. The A/C works fine. Had work done last yr to the intake and radiator hoses, it kept overheating and the hoses got fried from the overheated water and antifreeze.

We have a 2004 Dodge Stratus SE with 45,000 miles on the 2.4L 4cyl. It runs great, except that after it's been running for 15-20 minutes the heater stops blowing luxuriously warm air and starts blowing bone-chilling cold air. It seems that the temp gauge tends to rise a little at this point, too. Not to the dreaded RED zone, but it drifts to the warmer end of the spectrum. We're tired of the engine hogging all that warmth and want it on our chilled hands! It seems to have enough antifreeze, could this be as simple as a new radiator cap? How about a new thermostat? I'll stop guessing because we're not car geniuses (obviously) so please use small words for us. :Wink: Thank you!

2.7L eng. There is no heat coming from heater. Thermostat changed. Noticed temp gage does not move and it appears I have no coolant flowing through hoses. Bleed valve opened to release air after 10 mins of running still no flow, heat or temp on gage

Thermostat just installed yesterday. As far as overheating, no indication per the temp gage. Nor do I see any usual signs of overheating. I have only run the car for about 10 mins for fear of overheating.

Just had installed a thermostat (high difficulty). Car takes forever to warm-up, absolutely no heat inside either. Never seen anything like this. Thermostat was install by highly rated shop. ($200) It takes about 30 minutes to get heat inside!

It blew the upper radiator hose/coolant switch housing (plastic) they do this a lot from what I've dug up on the web. So that was repaired along with the new thermostat. Unless the water-pump is in the process of failing, (2.7 they are a mess, up in the engine, driven by timing chain). It started to make a rattling noise upon initial start-up and soon quiets down. I know the bearings in these don't last much longer than 70,000, this one just turned100,000. It set off a code twice; P0128 engine wasn't warming up fast enough. Freeze-frame data stated only 165 degrees @ 80 mph, and 3,000 rpm. Fuel trims looked good. This thing takes forever to warm-up. (30min or more, and no inside heater for at least 40min.) All the coolant levels are correct. I work on cars for a living and have never come across anything like this.

Yes, that was the only thing I could think of also. Due to the difficulty of replacing the stat' on this model, (its a real bear) I just wanted to throw this problem out there before I go back in to replace the stat' again. I agree with you that it doesn't seem to even have a stat' in it, or like you say, it's stuck wide open. Or the possibility of being installed incorrectly, or the wrong part even. It was done at a reputable shop. So, I guess it fell into my lap now. I always get the hard ones!
But I want to thank you very much for your time and thoughts on this matter as its nice to have someone to throw ideas around with. And you can be sure that I'll be throwing the next stat' in some boiling water before installing!
Thanks again!

Hello there!
I am having the same problems. I have found a couple of interesting things: First, there is a special procedure for bleeding down the cooling system, it says to consult the dealer for details in the manual out of glove box. I will add that it says it is imperative to do so. Just go to ask. Com and put in special proceedure for coolant on a 2.7. I am hoping that is the problem for me.
I have just boiled the thermostat in water on the range with digital thermometer, they both checked good (new and old). This is very strange. I have also noticed the temp gauge in the car is not reaching HOT, a matter of fact the thing is setting about half way. My thoughts were that the system is not bleed correctly and there is a air pocket somewhere keeping it from circulating through the upper housing where the temp sensor is, ( not even letting the fans kick on) if this is so, I am hopping that I never over heated enough to cause damage to say the oil pump, heads, gaskets, etc. Well, I am awaiting a part, (timing chain tensioner) from ebvay. Then I will know more. These are just my thoughts and findings to this point.
I would recommend being very leery of running and thinking the inside temp says fine and well, check your lower radiator hose. Mine is cold, that is not good. This lead me to pulling the water pump(NIGHTMARE:(((( Turned out the water pump was fine, but the seal was a little rough and the tensioner had a little build up on it. Please keep this going and let me know what you all find. Thanks in advance! I will do the same.