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Had it a week and front passenger side locked up

Tiny
DONNIE SAMANTHA BISHOP
  • MEMBER
  • 2010 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 3.8L
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 80,000 MILES
They said they put master cylinder and 4 rotors and brakes and driver side back caliper on it new Had it a week and front passenger side locked up turned rotor cherry red let it cool took tore off and brake caliper it pushed in easy with C-Clamp so I put it back together it ran fine for a day prolly 50-60 miles now the driver side front got hot and smells like burnt brakes had any one got a clue what's causing this please help. It's my only family vehicle, My opinion the system needs flushed seems like maybe some dirt or grit in system where it jumped from passenger side front to driver side front, thanks in advance for your help I really appreciate it
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Sunday, August 28th, 2016 AT 7:05 AM

14 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,878 POSTS
This happens when the brake booster push rod is adjusted out too far which does no allow the brake master to return fully holding the brakes on. To confirm the issue loosen the brake master mounting bolts 3 turns to see if the car starts to roll again, if so remove the master and adjust the booster push rod inward.
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Saturday, March 13th, 2021 AT 7:10 PM
Tiny
DON0987
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2005 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 3.8L
  • 6 CYL
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 97,324 MILES
I just had new brake pads and rotors put on, instantly I noticed it felt like I was driving with my brakes still on. Also the brakes are smoking. Please help?
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 12:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,170 POSTS
Hi,

If they are getting that hot, you certainly have a problem. Who installed them for you? Was there any problem with them prior to the work other than simply being worn out?

When they hang up like that, usually you have either a stuck caliper piston or a stuck caliper slide. What I suggest is to contact the repair shop and tell them that one of the brakes they installed is hanging up and causing it to overheat. They need to be responsible for the repair.

I attached two pics below to show the components I am referring to. Pic 1 shows the caliper piston and pic 2 shows the caliper slide bolts.

Keep in mind, those two things can be fine and something was simply not seated properly or not installed correctly.

Let me know which brake is smoking. If you are comfortable with doing the checks yourself, I would be happy to walk you through the procedure.

By the way, if they are getting hot enough to smoke, I wouldn't recommend driving it until it's repaired. Also, if the shop fixes it for you, tell them you want the rotors replaced again because the excessive heat has likely caused the new one to warp.

Let me know.

Joe
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 12:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DAVE/TOWN&COUNTRY
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2004 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 23,000 MILES
2004 town and country with four wheel disc brakes. The front brakes pads will not release all the way and they get hot. I have new pads and the rotor wear turned. It has 23,000 miles on it
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 12:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
I would look at the brake hoses being collapsed or the calipers sticking. When the brakes get hot, remove the wheel, open the bleeder and see if the caliper releases. If it does, the brake hose is at fault. If it does not, the caliper is at fault. Make sure you flush the brake fluid system.

Roy
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 12:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DAVE/TOWN&COUNTRY
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Thanks, that sounds like a good answer and I will try it. Dave/town&counry
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 12:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MILBRINK
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2002 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 140,000 MILES
I have a Chrysler T&C, and recently have noticed a hot smell coming into the cab of the vehicle, and the ABS light coming on. Today while driving to work I noticed that the van was driving more sluggish than normal, and like I was driving with the brakes engaged. When I got to work there was smoke coming off of the drivers side brake pad, and was very hot. The same thing happened when I drove home from work. The brakes were just serviced in July 2010. Just wondering if you have ever heard of anything like this, and what I can possibly do to fix it, or should I just get rid of it? Thanks for your time, and answer.
Steve
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 12:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,170 POSTS
It sounds like the caliper is sticking or the rubber brake line that attaches to the caliper has internally collapsed. You need to remove the wheel and first see if the rotor turns with the brake off. If it does, press the brakes to make sure it locks then release. If the caliper doesn't release and the rotor won't turn, chances are the rubber brake line is the bad part. Break the bleeder loose on the caliper to see if that releases pressure and allows the rotor to turn. If it does, replace the rubber hose. If it doesn't, either the slides on the caliper are sticking or the piston is sticking and not releasing pressure. If that is the case, the caliper will need rebuilt or replaced. Trust me, just replace it. The labor and parts needed to rebuild isn't worth the effort.

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Joe.
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 12:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JUSTAMOM003
  • MEMBER
  • 17 POSTS
  • 1996 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 164,000 MILES
The caliper "hangs up" or the caliper piston sticks open. We've changed the caliper twice with a well known rebuilt brand, and we've changed the brake hose. What would cause the caliper to fail like this?
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 12:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
Where guide pins and sleeves inspected or replaced? Fluid in master cylinder flushed ie. Replaced with new? Rotors checked for true?
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 12:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JUSTAMOM003
  • MEMBER
  • 17 POSTS
The caliper was completely rebuilt and, pre-loaded with pads. The rotor was new at the first install and, turned at the second install. Additionally I replaced the flex hose. The brake fluid was not flushed but, a few monthes prior to this problem the brake lines failed and, were replaced. During that repair almost all of the brake fluid was lost and, subsequently replaced.
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 12:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
Not the caliper itself asking abpout hardware that mounts to frame
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 12:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JUSTAMOM003
  • MEMBER
  • 17 POSTS
The two bolts that hold the caliper to the spindle were new, greased and, sliding freely. It is the caliper piston that has been failing
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 12:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
It sounds like the brake hose. Here are videos to help you make your own line or replace the brake flex hose.

https://youtu.be/sO43p4ZFUiM

and

https://youtu.be/1Prs_coIuCg

The process is the same in most cases.
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 12:53 PM (Merged)

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