Engine starts and then stalls while driving?

Tiny
ROBERT M. RUDE
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • 4.3L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 90,000 MILES
The fuel pressure is good, 62 Lbs.
It cranks, starts and runs for a couple seconds and then it dies. The engine quits cleanly, no sputtering, just quick kill.
The pass-lock light goes out and basically acts like it is supposed to. I tried a pass-lock relearn, but the light goes out after a minute or so, not after ten minutes.
no codes, no check engine light.
This truck sat for six months with Stabil in the gas, it ran perfect before parking.
I pulled the three big plugs from the BCM, did not see any corrosion, I could not figure out how to pull the two smaller plugs on each end.
I unplugged the three wire connector on the pass-lock sensor on the end of the ignition switch and looked for corrosion and it does not appear to be a loose fitting.
I unhooked battery and touched negative and positive together for a few seconds and reinstalled, no change.
BCM appears to be killing injectors after two seconds, why?
What do I look at? Thanks.
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Saturday, May 7th, 2016 AT 8:54 PM

58 Replies

Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
You need to scan for codes to see what is wrong with system. You can try another key it may work otherwise it has to be scanned.

These guides can help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Please run down these guides and report back.

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Sunday, May 8th, 2016 AT 10:16 AM
Tiny
ROBERT M. RUDE
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
A mechanic scanned it, no codes.
It just shows that the BCM is shutting off the injectors after two seconds. No clues as to why it does this.
The way I understand it passlock doesn't use a special key:
Passlock
This system allows starter operation, then kills the injectors one to two seconds after startup. This is a “Hall-Effect” system. The key cylinder housing has a small magnet that rotates past the Pass-lock sensor. The sensor is powered and detects the rotation. The voltage on the sensor then drops to a specified value (there are ten different values). There’s no pellet in the key. So basically this system is checking to see that a thief has not popped the lock cylinder to steal the vehicle. You have to perform a Power-train Control Module (PCM) relearn procedure (need a programming scan tool). The Pass-lock system was used on:

Buick
Skylark 96-98

Chevrolet
Cavalier 95-on
Impala 2000-on
Malibu 97-on
Monte Carlo 2000-on

Oldsmobile
Achieva 96-on
Cutlass 97-on
Intrigue 98-on

All GM trucks 98-0n
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Sunday, May 8th, 2016 AT 10:47 AM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,554 POSTS
Hey Robert,

It sounds like the crankshaft angle sensor is going out, when this sensor fails the engine stalls and there can be no codes for it because the computer thinks the engine has stalled for other reasons, ie out of gas, fuel pump failure etc. On newer models the camshaft sensor will take over and the engine will still run, then the computer can see the failure, but not so in 2004.

Please try to replace the sensor here is an article on doing that.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

and video

https://youtu.be/sKo7xRWVNqY

Let me know

Best, Ken
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Monday, May 9th, 2016 AT 11:23 AM
Tiny
ROBERT M. RUDE
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
It was the passlock sensor. Even though the dash light was acting like there was no passlock problem.

I did a 30 minute pass lock relearn and it started right up. Thanks for the help
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Monday, May 9th, 2016 AT 5:19 PM
Tiny
SSKBROWN
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2004 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 80,000 MILES
My truck has the 6.0L Gasoline engine. About a month ago my truck started dying when the engine was warmed up. There was no check engine light. After discussing the problem with a mechanic, he suggested that it may be the fuel pump. Being that it is not uncommon for Chevy fuel pumps to go out at 80000 miles I took his advice and changed the pump. Once again the truck died when the engine warmed up. I thought that it may have been an electrical problem, so I had my battery and alternator checked. The battery was bad, however, this did not cure the problem. At this point I had no clue so I took it to the dealer. They told me that the ignition switch was bad and I had them change it. At last the truck ran. I drove the truck to and from work for a few weeks, about 16 miles per day with no problems. The engine did seem to miss just a little at an idle. This weekend I was taking a trip of about 200 miles. At almost exactly 100 miles and 75 miles per hour with the cruise control on the engine shut off and the battery light came on. Then it restarted on its own. I drove the next 10 miles with no problems. Then it started shutting off about every 5 miles, sometimes restarting and when it didn't I was able to shut the ignition off and restart with no problems. A local mechanic told me that I might have water in my fuel. I put the recommended conditioners in my tank and filled it the rest of the way up with High octane fuel. The problem did not reappear at slower speeds but after driving almost 100 miles once again the engine started the same problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am desperate and broke from trying so many solutions. Thank You.
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 11:49 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,014 POSTS
If the truck always starts right back up, I feel it is an electrical problem. Did the battery light come on while the engine was running? Also, has anyone checked the crank sensor to make sure it is clean and working properly? I have seen them go bad and act this way. The problem is there are so many sensors that can cause this type of problem, without the check engine light coming on, really makes it a guessing game. Even though the light hasn't come on, has anyone tried to scan the computer? Most parts stores will do it for free.

Let me know.
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 11:49 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SSKBROWN
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Thanks for your reply. The battery light did not come on while the engine was still running. The engine would quit, the light would come on and then the light would go back out if the engine restarted. As for reading the computer, I did have it read the first time this was happening. It did not return anything at that time, but I will try it again.
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 11:49 AM (Merged)
Tiny
10REDS
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
My 2000 Silverado did the same thing. Turned out to be some kind of crank sensoir as indicated above. Have not had a problem since changed out.
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 11:49 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MIKEINTROUBLE
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2004 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 137,000 MILES
I was plowing my driveway, everything was fine, I was backing up and the engine stopped running. No bang, clunk, noise of any kind, interior light works, head lights work, no radio, no dash instument, engine doesnt turn over with key.
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 11:49 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JDL
  • MECHANIC
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Welcome to the forum. I'd have to check feed circuits to and from the ignition switch. As far as the starter circuit, you could check the circuits at the starter relay in the power distribution center. Voltage for the coil side of relay, goes hot with key in the crank position. Voltage to load/swith side of relay, is hot all the time.
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 11:49 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MIKEINTROUBLE
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I'm sorry it's a 1994 chev trk. I dont know if it matters, where abouts is the power distribution center on this truck? On fender by battery?
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 11:49 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JDL
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,098 POSTS
Hi, thanks for the donation. The model year does make a difference, there is no starter relay for the 94. looked at 94 chevy truck K1500 gasoline. Use a testlite, check voltage to ignition switch, red wires, hot all the time. As far as the starter, the purple wire, right side of switch, goes hot with key in the start position. There are other tests for the starter,but, right now, I'd check the circuits at the switch.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/170934_K1500_1.jpg

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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 11:49 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BAJA99
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 2004 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • 4.3L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 156,180 MILES
I have the truck listed above 5 speed.
Was driving and the truck just shut off no warning had been running great. Well I checked and I have no spark the fuel pump runs when key is turned on and do have fuel PSI the cap rotor plugs and wires have been replaced about 2 weeks ago just for preventive maintenance. So a friend told me it might be the crank sensor so I replaced it but still crank but no start. I checked and I have power 12 volts to the module and coil but no spark at plug wire or no spark at coil. Any ideas would help. Thank you
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 11:49 AM (Merged)
Tiny
94 TRANSAM
  • MECHANIC
  • 680 POSTS
It is most likely the ignition module, but could also be the cam sensor.

Rich
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 11:49 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BAJA99
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
I have tried a ignition module, but I will try a cam sensor and let you know. Thank you very much.
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 11:49 AM (Merged)
Tiny
94 TRANSAM
  • MECHANIC
  • 680 POSTS
You are welcome. You can also make sure you have your 5 volt reference at the cam and crank sensors. If either one is missing it the sensor wont function and leave you with no spark.

Rich
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 11:49 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BAJA99
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Thanks. I have checked the crank sensor and it seams to be working. Can I check the cam sensor the way I did the crank sensor or is it checked a different way?
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 11:49 AM (Merged)
Tiny
94 TRANSAM
  • MECHANIC
  • 680 POSTS
Nope, its the same way. One side is the 5 volt reference and the other is a pulse signal same as crank.
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 11:49 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BAJA99
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Okay, thank you. I’ll check it and let you know. Thanks again.
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 11:49 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,554 POSTS
I have seen the crankshaft sensor cause this issue here is a video to help change it out.

https://youtu.be/sKo7xRWVNqY

Please let us know what happens.
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 11:49 AM (Merged)

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