2003 olds Silhouette rear power door

Tiny
AYORK
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 OLDSMOBILE SILHOUETTE
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • 106,000 MILES
YOU HAD ANSWERED A PREVIOUS QUESTION FROM SOMEONE ABOUT A 2003 OLDS SILHOUETTE WITH DUEL POWER DOORS. THE DRIVER SIDE POWER DOOR CLOSES BUT THE "DOOR OPEN" ALARM GOES OFF WHEN PUT IN DRIVE. SOMETIMES WHEN IT CLOSES. IT OPENS RIGHT UP AS IF SOMETHING IS IN THE WAY. ALSO, WHEN IT DOES CLOSE THE BACK PART OF THE DOOR POPS OUT A LITTLE BIT. I AM HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM AND HAVE TO DISABLE THE POWER FROM MY CONSOLE SWITCH TO SILENCE THE ALARM. I PRINTED OUT YOUR ANSWER TO THIS WHICH WAS FIRST RE- INITIALIZE THE DOORS AND SECOND ACTIVE THE ON BOARD DIAGOSTIC FEATURE. BUT MY QUESTION IS IF I GO THROUGH THE ON BOARD DIAGNOSTIC FEATURE. WHAT THEN. HOW DO I KNOW THE CODES AND WHAT DO I DO WITH THEM. OR DOES THIS PROCESS AUTOMATICALLY (HOPEFULLY) FIX THE DOOR?
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Tuesday, April 12th, 2011 AT 2:52 PM

9 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
The diagnostic features is to check for trouble codes and proceed with repairs if any found. Get the code and post it here and we will assist in getting the information for you.

Reinitialising the doors should be done after checking for trouble codes so we know what to fall back on if reinitialising does not work.
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Tuesday, April 12th, 2011 AT 4:00 PM
Tiny
BRIAN1837
  • MEMBER
I have also tried this method and I have what I think is DTC12 but from the explanation I read on another reply to a similar question here I am confused. I get 1 beep, a short pause, then 2 beeps close together, and then a long pause. This repeats until I change the diagnostic mode. Is this DTC12 or something else?

I was not getting the alarm when closed the earlier post had, but my door will only unlatch with power and after that there is no motion or sound from the motor. The cable hangs loose on the outside of the vehicle when I manually open the door. It seems like the power unlatch works fine, but the motor has failed.

For all other test I did in diagnostic mode, the switches acted as they should and I had the alarm coming from the rear control when pressing buttons or turning on/off or opening and closing the door manually as directed by the instructions.

Any help would be great. I have already pulled the inside cover off (this is the passenger side and the only side with power slider) and all connections appear good.

The door never gave me any trouble until one week ago when it stopped working about halfway open and I had to force it closed with power off and it will only move manually, no motion from the motor at all.
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Thursday, December 1st, 2011 AT 12:10 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
There is not DTC12. The list has only 13, 14, 22 and 23.

There are 3 diagnostic modes, which mode did you retrieve the code from?
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Thursday, December 1st, 2011 AT 4:53 PM
Tiny
BRIAN1837
  • MEMBER
I thought you could only get codes from diagnostic mode 1, as mode 2 tests switches and 3 tests the power unlatch.

The code beeping I heard was in mode 1. It's tough to type what the mode 1 beep sounded like, but it was one beep, a short pause, then 2 beeps close together followed by a long pause. This beeping pattern repeated until I entered diagnostic mode 2. I did reinitialize the system when I was done. There was no change to the symptoms.
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Thursday, December 1st, 2011 AT 5:04 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Sorry for the error. The other modes would beep to tell you that you have entered the mode.

Our database does not have a clear description of the trouble code and I believe what you are getting is code 22, a fault with the sliding door module.

Try going into diagnostics and after noting down the codes, exit diagnostic mode to erase the trouble code and reenter diagnostic mode to check the code again. If code is not present, reinitialise the sliding doors and then recheck for trouble codees again.
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Thursday, December 1st, 2011 AT 5:39 PM
Tiny
BRIAN1837
  • MEMBER
OK, I rechecked the codes, but before I did, I had the system power on instead of off so the door popped open, but to my surprise the door also opened itself almost all the way. This was the first time the motor ran in over a week. I pressed the b-pillar door button again to close and it didn't move but I could hear & see the motor turning, plus the sound of cable not going where its supposed to. Once I got it closed again manually I noticed there are areas on the cable that have the plastic coating worn away. I did not see fraying of the cable, but I can only see a small amount of the cable at any one time.

I entered mode 1 and got 2 short followed by 3 short buzzes. Code 23? This is definately not the same code I heard last night.

I reinitialized the door but did not have time to re-check the code as I had to get back to work. I can check later but hoped this would take us another step towards the solution which I am now guessing is the cable?

Thanks for your help!
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Thursday, December 1st, 2011 AT 7:12 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
If plastics are worn, then you have a fault with the cables as there are excessive slack. This would triger the trouble codes and it cna vary as the control module is not getting the correct signal from the optical sensors.
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Thursday, December 1st, 2011 AT 9:19 PM
Tiny
AYORK
  • MEMBER
I don't know if this will work for everyone with the above door problem but we went camping over the summer and I had my headlights and radio on. When I went to start my van the battery was dead. We had to jump it. Since then my door had worked normally. So I don't know if by that happening it reset everything or what but mine is now fixed.
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Friday, December 2nd, 2011 AT 10:29 PM
Tiny
RIVERMIKERAT
  • MEMBER
Thanks for letting us know AYORk.
Brian, as KHLow stated, it sounds like the door actuator cable. The portion of it that appears to be worn is causing the system to send an receive confusing signals.
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Monday, December 5th, 2011 AT 1:30 AM

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