ABS C1185 trouble code

Tiny
SCOTTM
  • MEMBER
Contact the NHTSA regarding your post issue. They are trying to elevate the issue with Ford.
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Monday, January 4th, 2010 AT 11:36 AM
Tiny
CLUMSY2222
  • MEMBER
A handy piece of info if someone doesn't know it already. In my case, I was trying to diagnose the speedo issue. There is a method of checking to see if the cluster is receiving the correct signal from the VSS, there are a lot of other options and data displayed in here. Holdin the trip odometer button, start the van, wait for the odometer to display tESt, then let go of the button, then continue hitting the button and various information will be displayed. You can check to see if all of your dash lights work as the first optoin, and continuing through those options gets you to the speedo. Its is to the tenth of a mph, or kph if you choose. I determined that my speedo head was bad, as the speed displayed here was accurate adn workign correctly
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Monday, January 4th, 2010 AT 9:01 PM
Tiny
KKIRK
  • MEMBER
I have had this issue also with my 2001 windstar. My ABS/Brake/Trac Off would come on pretty often. Turn off the vehicle and start it back up, it wouldn't take but a mile and the lights would come back on. Lately its been happening alot more frequent so I thought, this would be as good time as any to buy a OBDII/ABS code reader. Ordered the code reader last week, had to go on a unexpected 2k mile trip over the weekend before the reader arrived. Georgia to Pennsylvania and back. Sure enough, the lights never came on once during the whole trip. When I got home the reader was here, so here were the codes it had in it, C1236, C1185, C1198, C1194, C1254, C1246, C1250, C1242, C1214, C1210, C1410, C1404, U1262, B1318.

I don't know why all of a sudden this issued cleared. More than likely it will be back, but why 2k mile and not one issue. The lights started coming in probably in June of 2008. I have checked for a leaky cruise control thingy, no signs of leakage. I also checked around the ABS module and it appears that there are no visible outside damage.
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Monday, February 1st, 2010 AT 7:30 PM
Tiny
ARAWA
  • MEMBER
A very interesting read so far - thanks all for the input!

We bought a 2002 Windstar a few weeks ago. The carfax showed that the SCDS recall was not completed, so last week I took it to the dealership to have this taken care of - bot I wish I'd have read this thread before I did!

The dealship told me they had inspected and replaced the SCDS and then on the invoice (no charge) was another entry - BA Kit - brake repair. I waited about 2 hours for this recall to be performed - I don't know how long it actually took them but it certainly wasn't a 5 minute thing. The service guy reassured me that they had inspected the ABS module, but I have no proof it was done or not done either way. They also apparently did a complete checkover of the car and told me there was nothing wrong with it.

Trouble is, within about a half hour of leaving the dealership, I got the dreaded ABS/Brake light combo - something that hadn't happened since we had the car (although that was only a week or so, so I'm not saying it had never happened before).

What I'm trying to work out is if anything that was done during the recall could have caused the light to come on, or if I'm looking at a new problem entirely (which I know is also a possibility). I have checked the brake fluid level as instructed in the owner manual - it's fine.

Did anyone else who had the recall service performed have this problem? I'm grateful for all the information I've come across here but I'm in no way an expert on cars. Actually I'm about as far as you could get from an expert on cars.

Anyone have any ideas?
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Tuesday, March 9th, 2010 AT 11:47 AM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
I dont know if they have one of these rebuilt units for Windstar, but call these guys and buy a reman unit for $150.00!
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Tuesday, March 9th, 2010 AT 2:21 PM
Tiny
PIP21K
  • MEMBER
I have a 2002 Ford windstar with about 132k miles.

Problems are:
Odometer has just dashes
Speedometer doesnt work at all
Brake Light is on
Tachometer mostly doesnt work, bounces around.
O/D Light flashes after about a minute of driving

Heres whats been done:
SCDS has been replaced with the new design.
Brake fluid level is fine in master cylinder
All fuses including #10 are fine
Tried replacement instriment cluster.
Tried replacing VSS.

Problems persist. Please help!
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Saturday, May 22nd, 2010 AT 1:11 PM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
Who replaced the cluster? It may need to be installed using a Ford Super Star II scan tool, this programs the new cluster. Scan for codes while you are at it.
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Sunday, May 23rd, 2010 AT 8:08 AM
Tiny
PIP21K
  • MEMBER
Cluster was replaced by previous owner, didn't work so they swapped the original cluster back in, I am unsure if they used a ford super star II to attempt to program either. I used a generic scanner and got no codes, check engine light is not on.
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Sunday, May 23rd, 2010 AT 7:50 PM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
Take it to Ford, you need a good code scan, P B U and C, Ford's tool does this and can reprogram the modules.
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Tuesday, May 25th, 2010 AT 2:58 AM
Tiny
RSCAMARO73
  • MEMBER
Same deal as most, having a TON of issues, and they keep piling on. 2001 Windstar. Had the recall switch installed, but my old one wasn't leaking. Been having tons of trans issues that won't duplicate.

Can't seem to figure out the ABS/Brake light deal either. But when my sunburn is gone, I'll crawl under it and get the box info as requested 'some pages back'.

Already filed online with NHTSA. Still working on trying to get it scanned out for less than the "buttsects" the dealer is trying to give me. I know it has issues, I just wanted to pinpoint it. Not throwing any more money at it.

Wish I had never gotten it.
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Sunday, June 13th, 2010 AT 10:25 PM
Tiny
SCOTTM
  • MEMBER
You had a fire at the ABS ECM connector! Connector is dead and burnt out.
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Monday, June 21st, 2010 AT 8:30 AM
Tiny
SCOTTM
  • MEMBER
I'm with ya dude. But I have no magical darts. The part that is busted is expensive.
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Monday, June 21st, 2010 AT 8:34 AM
Tiny
RSCAMARO73
  • MEMBER
Newest issue to solve - creaking in the rear going over bumps.

Answer - stopped at a gas station, parked on concrete, plenty of light reflecting off of it under the van. Anyway, I checked the pass side shock, panhard bar, and axle from in front of the pass rear wheel. Crawled under and checked the spare. Looked towards the driver rear and the rear axle is cracked from bottom to top. And I pushed on it with my finger and it felt like its rusted out from the inside, as its soft where the biggest gap is.

There has GOT to be something to do about this. I've heard of other axles cracking and causing hub damage (in that area of the rear) but not somewhere close to the middle.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/158289_cracked_axle_1.jpg



That's about 12-18" from the driver rear tire, as viewed looking towards the front of the van from the rear bumper area.

Nice, ehh ?

I gotta trade this pig in somewhere FAST.....
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Monday, June 21st, 2010 AT 2:31 PM
Tiny
TKJ1973
  • MEMBER
Another Windstar owner here with the ABS/BRAKE Trac control light issue. This is the only issue I am having with my Windstar Thank Goodness. Everything else is working fine so far.

I called to schedule the recall with my local dealer and they said they were alittle behind on the windstar recall. I am scheduled for August 6th.

I looked and noticed that mine is not leaking. So, I am assuming that they will only replace the switch and send me on my way with the problem still not resolved. Am I correct? I am getting ready to sell my windstar soon, but was wanting to correct this issue without much cost at all before I sell it.
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Wednesday, July 28th, 2010 AT 1:58 PM
Tiny
CBAKER007
  • MEMBER
Similar. Had dealer do the recall. Did not check for the leak before taking it in. Was getting the ABS/Brake/Trac Control light on the dash maybe 1x every few weeks. Had the recall done. Now it happens almost every time we use the car, especially when it is hot/humid.

Complained to dealer that they should have fixed this under the recall. They said no, they used the "non leaking recall parts" so my system could not have been leaking. Therefore, the ABS ECM could not be bad because of that. But they agreed to look at it again for free (oh thank you very much ford). They came back and said that it was not covered by the recall (supposedly the service manager called the recall hotline and they said it was not covered). He went on to say that I needed the ABS ECM at $815 and an even more expensive ABS or Brake/Skid Control Valve at $1217. Plus of course 3.2 hours to replace those and 2.0 hours to bleed that system for a total of $2670. (I think that is more than my van's blue book value.)

He based this on the fact that the technican polled the computer can found the following codes:

C1185 - Power Relay Output Failure
C1194 - ABS Valve Coil Circuit Failure - Outlet, Left Front
C1210 - ABS Valve Coil Circuit Failure - Outlet, Right Front
C1242 - ABS Valve Coil Circuit Failure - Outlet, Left Rear
C1246 - ABS Valve Coil Circuit Failure - Outlet, Right Rear

C1198 - ABS Valve Coil Circuit Failure - Inlet, Left Front
C1214 - ABS Valve Coil Circuit Failure - Inlet, Right Front
C1250 - ABS Valve Coil Circuit Failure - Inlet, Left Rear
C1254 - ABS Valve Coil Circuit Failure - Inlet, Right Rear

C1404 - Traction Control Valve Circuit Failure - Rear
C1410 - Traction Control Valve Circuit Failure - Left Front

U1262 - Communication Bus Failure
(the other codde you list B1318 might be there too, but the printout was cut off. Scroll bar indicated more codes might be there.)

So the service manager's justification with me was that this issue could not be due to a faulty ABS ECM nor leaking brake fluid because they put in the kit for non-leaking brake fluid AND that the ABS ECM failed because the ABS control value is bad causing the ECM to fail. So a mechanical failure caused the problem.

Sorry, I don't believe it. Anyone having these codes and does anyone know if I have soldered or send off the ABS ECM for repair if that will fix my issues?
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Monday, August 2nd, 2010 AT 5:49 PM
Tiny
3RDGENMECH
  • MEMBER
I think I might have fixed my brake/abs light issue. Last week I was troubleshooting a windshield wiper problem and pulled the wiper relay in the fuse box under the hood. I ended up breaking the relay for the wipers to get it out. In the process of pulling on the relay, the fuse box moved around quite a bit. Since then, the abs/brake light issue became intermittent, where it had never been so before. After looking at the owner's manual, I decided to pull the two 40A fuses (mentioned on the windstar recall website) in the underhood fuse block and reseat them. I pulled the ABS fuse in the kick panel and reseated as well, just for grins. Since doing that, the abs/brake lights have not come back on.
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Tuesday, August 3rd, 2010 AT 9:27 PM
Tiny
3RDGENMECH
  • MEMBER
Another comment to the above post, the two 40A fuses are in slot 101 and 102 in the underhood fuse block in my owners manual. They are for the ABS module (for those that are not familiar with the windstar recall website). I had a hard time getting them out. I used a pair of fish hook pliers. I think a pair of needle nose would probably work fine, just be careful not to break the fuse.
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Tuesday, August 3rd, 2010 AT 10:22 PM
Tiny
GPWEGGE
  • MEMBER
First, Thanks much to the site operators; great stuff! I own a 2003 Windstar. Been dealing with sometimes intermittent, now mostly solid, ABS and BRAKE indicators on simultaneously for about 2 years. After a couple hours of attention (preceded by an hour or so of reading the posts in this string), it appears the problem is fixed. The SCDS connector appeared ok, and there were no fluid leaks, but I removed/reseated the connector several times anyway, and tried to secondarily clean the female connections by inserting a wooden toothpick in each a couple times, but it didn't change/correct the problem. I came back to the connector after some more troubleshooting, disconnected it, turned the ignition key on and off a several times with pauses between actions, and the indicators stayed off. (Big smile! - But short lived.) However after starting the van and beginning to back up, they were back on. So shut off engine, and tried the key sw on and off again several times, and the lights went off again. But after leaving the key on (engine off), both indicators came back on after varying amounts of time (as I tried this sequence of activities a number of times.) I then jumpered the SCDS connector with a paper clip (inserting and removing the ends of the clip a number of times before I was satisfied the clip was going to stay put) and repeated the ignition key activity a number of times with the indicators again eventually going out. This time they stayed out (except for the normal on states when first turning on the ignition key, then starting.) They remained off for a short test drive with some heavy breaking and the ABS functioning properly. (A wonderful sound when it had been silent for some time!) Assuming the problem is indeed fixed, my best guess is that inserting and removing the paper clip ends into the female connections a few times cleaned them sufficiently (where the toothpicks did not). I plan to give them a dose of contact cleaner. I will post a follow up after I drive the thing for a few weeks. Thanks, again, for the insight!
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Tuesday, August 24th, 2010 AT 8:43 PM
Tiny
FULLTHROTTLE64
  • MEMBER
Is there a way to completely bypass the ABS Control Module so that the dash will work? Anybody got a pin-out for the connector? My thought is that if I can get the speed sensor signal to the dash and just completely disconnect the Control module, I should be able to drive the car.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/566933_P8280103_3.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/566933_PICT00095_1.jpg



Here's my writeup to the NHTSA:

The morning of July 11, 2010, the ABS Control Module on our 2002 Windstar suffered an internal fire due to brake fluid leaked from the bad switch, resulting in a loss of proper brake function and no readings from the speedometer, tachometer, and odometer (as well as multiple warning lights). This occurred several weeks after having had the Brake Pressure Deactivation Switch recall performed (NHTSA Campaign ID 09V399000, Action Number EA08021). The local Ford dealership which had performed the initial recall work refused to repair or replace the module under the recall or as a warranty claim, stating that it was not part of the recall, nor was it apparently damaged at the time of the brake switch repair. I subsequently removed, opened and examined the control module (8/28/2010), and found blackened brake fluid present inside the module at the connector pins. I also found evidence of significant burning around the pins at the connections to the printed circuit board. This evidence included the blackened fluid, severe discoloration, and lifted traces, all of which are clearly apparent in photos of the module interior. Luckily, it appears that an internal trace burned through and interrupted the fault current prior to the failure becoming a runaway fire event. At this time the vehicle has not been repaired, and is sitting idle. I have kept the failed Control Module for examination
as necessary.

Sorry for the double-posting, but the response I got to my other thread wasn't as targeted as I am looking for.
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Sunday, August 29th, 2010 AT 5:56 PM
Tiny
REFRIEDBEANCOUNTER
  • MEMBER
I have a 2003 Windsuck. It has had the ABS and Brake light on since we owned it. It recently had the deactivation switch replaced and then it started to blow fuse #10. So I removed fuses 101 and 102 and disconnected switch. Now it does not run right and will stall or accelerate on its own. I put in the jumper wire and now it is blowing #10 again. I am afraid to let my wife and kids ride in the van.
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Thursday, September 2nd, 2010 AT 3:18 PM

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