ABS C1185 trouble code

Tiny
SCOTTM
  • MEMBER
The NHTSA has " burned-up" three Ford Windstars in their investigation of this issue. It is quite likey eventually we will see a recall, but only after Ford puts it off as long as they can.

If you have the issue please report your issue to the NHTSA. GOV website.

Scott
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Friday, November 28th, 2008 AT 5:42 PM
Tiny
ADLWEG
  • MEMBER
I just received a call from the NTSC asking me details of the problem I reported in August 2007 regarding the ABS module. They said that an investigator will contact me to arrange for a repair of the module so they can get samples of the problem module. About time.
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Monday, December 8th, 2008 AT 1:00 PM
Tiny
SCOTTM
  • MEMBER
Pure excitement here.
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Tuesday, December 9th, 2008 AT 3:38 PM
Tiny
VALSIGPLYM
  • MEMBER
Keep complaining! I was contacted by the DOT this week about my problem c1185 problem. She said it could result in a recall. They were still gathering info from those of us that have filed a complaint. It did take awhile but enough people have complained that at least they are investigating the issue.

Please file a complaint today!
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Friday, December 12th, 2008 AT 9:35 AM
Tiny
SCOTTM
  • MEMBER
This proves the point this is not over at the NHTSA! They are now taking it very seriously and gathering a deep case of issues for a recall. Keep up the reports.

Scott
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Friday, December 12th, 2008 AT 10:08 AM
Tiny
ADLWEG
  • MEMBER
They are specifically investigating the problems caused by the leaky switch (problem #1). At this point, they are not looking into the ABS problem by itself. They want both the leaky switch and the bad ABS module sent to them to determine the cause of the problems.
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Wednesday, December 17th, 2008 AT 12:35 PM
Tiny
SCOTTM
  • MEMBER
Somewhat interrelated, because the source of the electricity that ignites the brake fluid from the leaky deactivation switch is at the ABS module.

Scott
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Wednesday, December 17th, 2008 AT 12:57 PM
Tiny
VALSIGPLYM
  • MEMBER
WOW!
If you have not seen this data base check, out the number of complaints that involve smoke and fire as a result of this problem.

Thank you for helping me deactivate my Windstar time bomb. I will call my NHTSA contact person to show them these cases that resulted in smoke and fire. Be safe and disconnect the fuse!
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Sunday, January 4th, 2009 AT 8:11 PM
Tiny
BIGGYDAVE
  • MEMBER
MY 2001 Windstar started showing yellow ABS and red brake lights over two years ago, somewhere in the 55,000 mile area. I have spent over a $1,000.00 fixing various things like ABS pump, wheel sensors and other things that I have forgotten. My lights only come on when the ambient air temperature is above is above eighty degrees F. Below this temperature the lights never com on. Living in New England I only have to deal with the problem six months of the year. I have checked the ABS on slippery surfaces in the rain when the lights are on, ABS works as designed. I have had it to the Ford Dealer in Townsend MA and they cannot isolate the problem. The lights will be off after an engine restart, and may not come on again for days or weeks. So with this in mind I plan to drive the car as is until I sell it. Massachusetts does not require ABS brakes to be functioning for an inspection sticker. And will give a sticker at inspection even if the lights are on. Remember my ABS is working when the lights are on. DB
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Saturday, January 24th, 2009 AT 11:06 AM
Tiny
ROCKKRAMER
  • MEMBER
I have a 2003 Windstar with the typical issue discussed of the brake and the ABS lights coming on. The Windstar also had a problem where the interior lights would flash on/off while driving. In my case, both of these problems were related and have a simple fix. The cruise disengaging switch on the brake master cylinder was not leaking so I did not think the problem was related to any electronics further down on the wiring harness. The problem ended up being an intermittent loss of continuity in the Ignition Switch. If you move the ignition switch with the key in the "run" position and your interior lights flash on/off then read on. You will have to remove the Ignition switch cylinder assembly to correct the problem. There is a hole on the bottom of the steering column where you insert a small screwdriver or rod. This pushes a release pin and then the ignition switch cylinder slides out. I believe that the key needs to be in the "run" position to remove it. Looking into the now empty cylinder casing hole, you will see a copper colored tab. There was no problem with this tab, but if you ground it to the cylinder casing the interior lights will come on. Looking on the removed ignition switch cylinder you will see another horizontal tab that makes continuity with the cylinder casing. I used fine grid wet/dry sandpaper to clean the inside of the cylinder casing where this horizontal tab makes contact. Also cleaned up both tabs. I put the ignition switch cylinder back into the column and no more brake lights coming on and no more interior lights flashing. I think that with the engine running the intermittent loss of continuity somehow messed with the ECM's logic and that is what made the brake lights come on. I waited three months before posting as I wanted to make sure that this indeed solved the problem. The issue in my case is definitely fixed.
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Saturday, January 24th, 2009 AT 3:51 PM
Tiny
PGMERRICK
  • MEMBER
Hi all,
I have been reading through many of the pages but I was hoping someone could summarize around my problem:
I have just picked up a 2003 Ford Windstar LX. After a few weeks of driving, the ABS light and the brake warning light on the dash have both come on. They go off after turning the ignition off but come back on shortly after restarting (normally after a few minutes driving.

In a nutshell, can someone advise:
-is it safe to drive (brakes appear to operate fine with no loss of power)?
-what, if anything, should I look at replacing/fixing?

Thanks so much.
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Tuesday, January 27th, 2009 AT 1:54 PM
Tiny
PGMERRICK
  • MEMBER
Great, thanks very much.
I presume after doing all of this that the car is still safe to drive etc (despite the lights on the dash still being on) and that no further repairs are needed?
Thanks again
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Friday, January 30th, 2009 AT 9:11 AM
Tiny
SCOTTM
  • MEMBER
My opinion is yes. You will not have ABS *you do not if the lights are on anyway*. My van has been that way for over a year now. No (less) problems.
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Friday, January 30th, 2009 AT 9:38 AM
Tiny
MOSHBIKES21
  • MEMBER
Hey guys, it is me Dan again. After I install the jumper wire for the cruse control to work will the brake leak stop? If not how long does it take for to admit they need to recall the part? Since I unhooked the deactivation switch my brake leak has gotten worse and no sings of it getting any better. On another note I have learned that they recalled same switch on the Expeditions, so hopefully they will get around to the vans thanks for listening and hope everyone gets there vans fixed soon. :)

Scott, could you tell me where to find the ECU modual so I can get some pictures? I get the feeling that it has caught on fire before I bought it. With that being said do not buy cars from "Carhop" in Nebraska. Reported problems to them and they said the warranty covers the engine and transmission not ECU or its parts, oh yeah, that reminds me blew head gaskets traveling at sixty five mph on interstate and lost power for everything van just went out. Had another engine put in runs fine now, but still same ECU so same problems with locks and such.
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Friday, February 20th, 2009 AT 4:21 PM
Tiny
SCOTTM
  • MEMBER
Jumper will not fix leak, will prevent more from leaking to ECU. I personally removed the switch and installed a 3/8" brass plug. (About $2.00). I did not replace the switch, nor will I.

The ECU is located under the car, under the drivers seat. There is a cover over most of it but you can see it. I suggest a digital camera with a flash to get the best look.

Always report your findings to the NHTSA and save the switch if you remove it in a zip lock bag. Take lots of pictures. They love pictures.
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Saturday, February 21st, 2009 AT 9:15 AM
Tiny
MOSHBIKES21
  • MEMBER
When you put brass plug in then did it stop the leak? I am thinking that I will put the plug in regardless. I am just tired of buying so much brake fluid.
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Saturday, February 21st, 2009 AT 1:58 PM
Tiny
SCOTTM
  • MEMBER
Yes, the plug replaces the leaky part.
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Saturday, February 21st, 2009 AT 3:13 PM
Tiny
MOSHBIKES21
  • MEMBER
Hey Scott, when i had new engine put in i forgot to mention the bad switch to the mechanic. when i was driving van home after two days of new engine being in the fuse popped that controls gauges, i then checked to see if switch was plugged in it was so i disconnected it have not check it since. Today i am going to put a plug in the switches place. Look what i found.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/197031_break_parts_and_others_031_1.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/197031_break_parts_and_others_032_1.jpg


Looks as if the switch melted or caught on fire getting ready to back out and jack up van so i can get a good look at the ECU as soon as i get pictures of ECU i will send them in to the site for the gov.
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Monday, February 23rd, 2009 AT 2:13 PM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
By the looks of that one, you are lucky to still have the van!
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Monday, February 23rd, 2009 AT 2:29 PM
Tiny
SCOTTM
  • MEMBER
Holy Hanna!

Report to NHTSA immediately!
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Monday, February 23rd, 2009 AT 2:30 PM

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