When did this start, right after the brake service, a while later, or were the repairs done because of this problem? If this started right away with the new parts, jack the rear tires off the ground, spin them by hand, and watch from the rear to see if the tire tread wobbles left and right. If it does you should be feeling that too while just driving, but that would indicate a piece of rust is stuck between the drum and hub.
If it took a while for this to show up, a common cause is failure to use a click-type torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts. Uneven clamping forces will cause the drums to warp after a few heat and cool cycles. An egg-shaped drum will make the shoes move back and forth as the drum rotates. Usually you will feel that in the brake pedal too.
June, 5, 2011 AT 12:11 AM
Rolling/rumbling sound in rear passenger side was evident (even when driving) BEFORE brake service. After drums & shoes were replaced, the sound was limited to only when brakes are applied. Is this going to be a simple re-visit, or should I anticipate another pricey repair? Not crazy about using the vehicle with kids. Need help!
June, 5, 2011 AT 1:00 AM
I think I would suspect the wheel bearing first although the type used in the rear doesn't really cause a lot of trouble. If the problem was brake-related, the recent service should have solved it. Unless the wheel bearings physically fell apart when they did the brake work, it's almost impossible to tell if they are responsible for the noise.
Another possible cause is rust buildup on the groove along the outer edge of the brake drum. The backing plate / splash shield has a fold in the outer edge that sits inside that groove. Usually that wears off during driving but it can be a source of noise. Sometimes that won't show up when the car is jacked up and there's no weight putting pressure on the brake drum. That is real "un-serious" but it can be hard to find. The best approach for that is to just remove the drum and scrape the rust from the groove around the outside and see if that helps.
If you mentioned that noise when you brought the car in for service they should have checked for it during the final test drive. Now that it is still there, most shops will inspect their recent work at no charge to you. If you just requested a brake job, they wouldn't probably have looked for that noise and since it's intermittent now, they might not have heard it on the test drive. In that case they might charge you for diagnosing it. In either case you can be expected to pay for additional parts. Every shop handles the additional labor charges differently. Some will give a discount to try to help you out. Some will only charge for the labor to replace parts but not for diagnostic time. Whatever they do charge, it will be better than going to the doctor. There you get charged for every visit whether they fix you or not.
June, 5, 2011 AT 1:28 AM
WHAT ABOUT "SWAPPING SUSPECT WHEEL" WITH ANOTHER, TO SEE IF STOPS AT RR, MOVES TO NEW LOCATION?
MAYBE YOU HAVE A (SMALL?) GOOSE EGG ON THE TIRE (BROKEN BELT IN THE TIRE)
June, 5, 2011 AT 1:29 AM
Ironically, the mechanic "said" he test drove the car after repair and "it rode like a beauty". Yes, that's what he said! And in fact, no noise was evident with me as well when I left the shop. Coincidentally, I took the car to the carwash yesterday morning and noticed the noise (knocking/thumping) that afternoon. My family & I actually thought it was the antenna swaying back & forth when we stopped. Removed antenna, rode and stopped, and yes, the noise was still there. Incidentally, unless I'm grasping at straws, the car did have a right pull before this recent brake-job repair. Doesn't that mean another issue? Been reading too many internet articles I suppose.
June, 5, 2011 AT 1:58 AM
SEE-UNS' HOW YOU ARE THERE AND WE ARE NOT, WHAT ABOUT A "HANDS AND KNEES" W/ FLASHLIGHT INSPECTION UNDER THE CAR, IN THE WHEEL WELL, AND UNDER. MAYBE YOU PICKED UP SOME ROAD DEBRIS, WALMART SACK OR OTHER, THAT THE CAR WASH "RELAPSED" BACK INTO MOTION. OR MAYBE LOOSE BOWLING BALL IN THE TRUNK?
NOT TRYING TO BE SMART OR NUTHIN', WHAT ABOUT MAYBE PERFORMING SOME OF THIS, AS SPECULATING, AIN'T GETTING US ANYWHERE!
WE ARE HAPPY TO ASSIST YOU, WE JUST NEED GOOD RENAISSANCE/ TESTING ON YOUR END. THIS STEERS US IN MORE POSITIVE DIRECTIONS, AND YOU ARE FIXED SOONER!
I ONCE HAD A "DING. DING. DINGDING" REPETITIVE SOUND AT MY DASH, DROVE--ME--CRAZY! 3 WEEKS LATER, I DISCOVERED THE "BULLET" FELL OUT OF MY "INERT" KEY CHAIN CARTRIDGE. THE EMPTY CASING AGAINST MY KEYS WAS THE TERRIBLE SOUND IN MY JEEP.
OKAY--I WILL GO BACK AND LOOK FOR A JEEP CJ TO FIX. Sniff. Sniff. Cj medevac hangs his head and goes back to the jeep forums.
June, 5, 2011 AT 2:01 AM
RENAISSANCE---SHOULDA BEEN "RECON"
June, 5, 2011 AT 2:01 AM
Unfortunately, Ford is famous for building cars that can't be aligned and your is one of them. At least they can't be adjusted to eliminate a pull. The only adjustments affect the position of the steering wheel when you're driving on a straight road. It's comforting to know that YOU recognize a pull and that it's not normal. Swapping the two front tires side to side can identify if it is a tire pull. That in itself is not serious. If there is a tire pull, just swap them front to rear and leave them there until a pair wears out. Another way to identify a tire pull on a front-wheel-drive car is it will pull one way under acceleration and the other way during moderate to hard braking.
June, 5, 2011 AT 2:18 AM
Noticed a slight improvement in the pull since brake job repair which incidentally happened under acceleration more than when braking. The noise is my main concern. Going back to shop on Monday. Smarty pants response above (cj) thinks it's a walmart sack stuck underneathe my car! Must think I'm a dumb broad or something: ) Thank you for your help!
June, 5, 2011 AT 2:43 AM
Not really a smarty pants. Just has the same way of looking at the world as I do, but he puts it into words. : )