Why are my brakes locking up and getting hot?

Tiny
ABOUT TO BREAK
  • MEMBER
Problem started after a rearend hit. Vehicle went on a frame rack, frame was straitened. Found a bent Rt. Axle. Replaced that. But the brakes have been perma warped for the last two years. The bouncing of the shoes wore groves deep into the backing plates. Hence the replacement this time.
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • EXPERT
What is perma wraped? Did this start up right after truck was repaired? When you install is drum free to turn? Parking brake cables O.K? Is big shoe in back little front? Is self adjuster on rear shoe?
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ABOUT TO BREAK
  • MEMBER
Sorry for my mis-spelling. Warped was the intended word.

This last brake job was done at a reputable shop by a Master tech. I supplied the parts and I paid him to hang them, just to eliminate any room for the errors you sited. All was done as it should be. Yet the brakes burned right up. It's as if a proportioning vlave is acting as a one way unit. I have benn told there is no propotioning valve on this vehicle. That is why I had the combination valve replaced.

The brakes don't feel like they are dragging while driving. But obviously something is not releaseing as it should.
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • EXPERT
Your combo has porp. Vale in it. If problem is hydraulic then pressure must be checked between master cyl and rear wheel cyl. Check to see if pressure is in line after a few pumps. If so residual check valve on master is defective. Also are fronts in good order?
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ABOUT TO BREAK
  • MEMBER
Yes. The fronts are in good working order. The problem is isolated to the Back brakes.

If the check valve in the master is the problem. Would that just affect the rears?
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • EXPERT
Yes only the rears it is screwed into master at outlet the line attached. Check for pressure in reas aftr brake application.
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ABOUT TO BREAK
  • MEMBER
Excellent news. And thank you very much.

Maybe I won't have to spend about $1600 on the ABS system after all.

I will check for the presure in the rear line. And will relace the master just to know it has been done.

A donation is on it's way!

Thanks Again Guys.
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • EXPERT
Ataboy Glad to have helped somtimes you have to stick to basics that's why all the questions at the time must have seemed inane but for me helpful.
Thanks for using us tell a friend
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
AIRMAN42
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
Right front break keeps getting very hot I replaced the rotor, pads, caliper, speed senser and it keeps burning up the pads
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACK42
  • EXPERT
Try a new brake hose. Have seen them fall apart inside and create a "flap" that will hold brake pressue to the caliper
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
AIRMAN42
  • MEMBER
A bad break hose thats a great idea now why didnt I think of that "THANKS" cant wait to try to see if will fix my problem. I will let you now how it goes.
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BIG AGE
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
When brakes are applied front right caliper will not release. What causes this, and how do I fix it?
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • EXPERT
Hi there,

you may have a part seized caliper, you will need to get an o/haul kit and dismantle clean & re kit, also if the front brake hoses are plugging they may be holding pressure, undo the bleeder and see if it backs of then, this will indicate a problem with the hoses.

Mark (mhpautos)
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MONGOOSE67
  • MEMBER
  • 1985 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
  • 5.7L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 100,450 MILES
Ever since I own this the front brakes grab on wet roads will actually lock the front wheels but release as soon as I take my foot off the pedal. I have replaced front rotors, front calipers, rear brake shoes were brake drums all new brakes new brake lines new master cylinder still the same issue. When I push on the brake pedal it goes down about two inches before it starts to apply the brakes. Pedal feels normal at this point it is not hard.
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
This is not a common problem, but the first thing I would consider is the combination valve. That is a brass block that sits on the frame rail right under the master cylinder. It will have a single wire plugged into it in the middle, on top. Follow the steel lines from the master cylinder to this valve assembly.

The front valve is the "metering" valve, also called the "hold-off" valve. Its job is to require the brake fluid to reach about fifteen pounds of pressure to open that valve so fluid can flow to the front calipers. That is to give the rear shoes time to expand and make contact with the drums. It insures front and rear brakes start to apply at the same time. On some vehicles, older Fords in particular, that metering valve has to be held open by hand or with a little special spring-metal tool to allow for gravity-bleeding of the front brakes. When that tool is forgotten and is left in place, you'll get the real easy front-wheel lockup you described.

The stem of that valve sticks out in the front of the assembly and it might have a rubber cap around it. You should see that stem pop out a little further when a helper presses the brake pedal.

Has the ride height been altered in the rear or is it sitting higher than it is supposed to be?
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MONGOOSE67
  • MEMBER
No. It has stock height.16.5 tires. I did however notice last night when bleeding the brakes again it does not seem to have a lot of pressure in the back when you break the bleeder lose.
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MONGOOSE67
  • MEMBER
So are you possibly suggesting that brass block is bad?
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Yup. I described how to watch the metering valve.

The tires affect ride height of the body, but I'm referring to suspension ride height. That has nothing to do with tire size. It has to do with sagged springs. The symptom is different though. Most pickup trucks and minivans use a height-sensing proportioning valve in the rear because there can be such a wide range of loading. With a heavy load, the rear sags, and that valve sends more braking power to the rear wheels. More accurately, under light loading, the valve limits the amount of brake fluid pressure to the rear wheels to prevent easy rear-wheel lockup. Sagged springs mimic heavy loading so you get more braking power to the rear than you should. That results in easy rear lockup, especially on wet roads. I was asking about your ride height because any modification that raised the rear would reduce rear braking power and make the front brakes do more of the work.
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MEADENGR
  • MEMBER
  • CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
I have a 1996 chev suburban, 5.7, 140,000 miles, front disc brakes.
My front driver side brake sticks and eventually heats up causing it to smoke. When brakes are applied the passenger side grabs and pulls vehicle to the right. Calipers have been replaced twice and brake system bled many times with same results.
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
AACPLUS
  • MEMBER
Most likely the hose going to the caliper from the hard line is collapsed internally. To verify this, pull the tire and pump the brake pedal a few times, but do not keep pressure on the pedal after pumping it. Try to spin the hub by hand. If it is hard to turn or will not turn without aid of a tool, there is definitely a problem. Next, break loose the bleeder valve on the caliper. If the pressure is relieved and now spins easily, it is the brake hose. If it is still binding, it is the caliper.

Of course, it could also be due to the ABS or porportioning valve, or pads are incorrectly installed, if the caliper is still binding after performing the method above. But 99% of the time, it will be the hose or caliper.
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:37 AM (Merged)

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