Why are my brakes locking up and getting hot?

Tiny
BUDDYCRAIGG
  • MEMBER
I've looked at the piping for your rear brakes. And they are setup as I described in the previous post.

I cannot make any more recommendations until you do some testing / inspecting.
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:34 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ERICPTHOM
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 161,000 MILES
1999 Suburan 1500 LS, The left front rotor and pads are getting hot enough to smoke and you can smell the brake pads. I have replaced the caliper, rotor, bearings, and brake pads and the symptoms repeated themselves. I'm at a lost.
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:34 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MICHAEL MULVANEY
  • MEMBER
Thanks, I will do what you recomended. Michael
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:34 AM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHER1
  • MEMBER
Replacing the 2 flex brake hoses will likely resolve your problem but if it got that got, it also damaged the pads and rotor now.
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:34 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BUDDYCRAIGG
  • MEMBER
I'll keep an eye out for your update.
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:34 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JDL
  • EXPERT
You have antilock brakes? Maybe issue with ABS? I wouldn't drive it like that. From here, all I can do is hunt and peck. Any abs codes? Let a professional look at it.

Next time you feel the brakes lock up, crack open the bleeder screw on the caliper or the steel line at the master cylinder. You're trying to see where there is blockage that is preventing the brake fluid from returning to the master cylinder. If the brake releases when you loosen the line at the master cylinder, suspect the brake fluid is contaminated with petroleum product such as engine oil, power steering fluid, or transmission fluid.
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:34 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MICHAEL MULVANEY
  • MEMBER
I'm in Colorado and it's supposed to snow like hell tonite and tomorrow so it will be awhile before I can take it apart. I'll let you know when I do. Michael
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:34 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HELLOHIWELCOME
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 238,700 MILES
After I drive around or step on the brake pedal a few times, the front brake on the left side sticks and the rotor gets hot and smokes but the other brakes works fine. When the vehicle rests for about 30 minutes or so it does not stick until I drive around or fiddle with it. I replaced both calipers seeing if that would fix the left side from sticking (locking, grabbing, dragging or whatever) but it still sticks, and I bled brake system as well. Even though I bled the brake system, the brake pedal still feels spongy or mushy. Like I'm stepping on a marshmallow. What are the causes of this problem? Thank you!
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:34 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
The combination of symptoms suggests the brake fluid is contaminated with a petroleum product such as power steering fluid, engine oil, transmission fluid, or wheel bearing grease. The next time the brake locks up, crack loose the steel line at the master cylinder to see if it releases. If it does, we'll have to discuss replacing a LOT of parts. If it does not release, open the bleeder screw on the caliper to see if it releases.
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:34 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HELLOHIWELCOME
  • MEMBER
I open the the steel line at the bleeder screw and the brake released. So, what is next?
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:34 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Which one, the steel line at the master cylinder or the bleeder screw on the caliper?

What does the rubber bladder seal under the reservoir cap look like? Will it pop back into the cap or is it blown up, soft and mushy?
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+1
Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:34 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HELLOHIWELCOME
  • MEMBER
I opened the bleeder screw and it released. I opened the steel line at master cylinder and it released. The rubber bladder is in great shape It pops right in with ease. Should the right caliper or rear drum brakes be blocked and locked from fluid contamination as well if it were fluid contamination. Could it be the hydraulic hydroboost?
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:34 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
You would expect both front calipers to lock if there was a problem related to the master cylinder but sometimes it takes less trapped fluid to keep one applied than the other one. That's why we don't want to overlook the easy stuff.

The next thing to try would be loosening the master cylinder's mounting nuts from the booster. If that lets the brake release, something has happened to the push rod adjustment, the brake light switch is holding the brake pedal down a little, or one of the seals in the master cylinder has grown or is coming apart from the piston and not fully retracting. That would be the last thing I would suspect because that seal sits quite a ways away from the port when it's released. You might also look into the hydroboost unit. Remove the master cylinder from it, then watch if the push rod extends when you start the engine. There shouldn't be any fluid there either. If power steering fluid is leaking from in front where the master cylinder attaches, you can expect there's more going on than just fluid leakage.
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-1
Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:34 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BRIAN69F
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
I have replaced the front rotors, calipers, pads, etc. While bleeding the brakes I can not get the passenger side caliper to move at all. I am getting fluid through the lines and it bleeds normally, but after I close the bleeder valve and try the brakes the caliper is not moving at all. I pulled everything apart and was able to move the piston on the caliper(thought it was seized) any ideas what is going on? I am beginning to belive it is in the abs system, maybe a bad check valve? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
2CEXPT
  • MEMBER
Check the brake hose on that side could be collasped internally acting as a one way check valve before you decide on the ABS unit-
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BRIAN69F
  • MEMBER
Thanks for your reply, when I removed the line, whomever had done the brakes last had a twist on the line and I am thinking it might be collapsed. If I hold it in the twisted position, I get more fluid dripping than if I have it straight. Thanks again.
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
1062
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 143,000 MILES
When I'm driving and then come to a stop, then continue driving, the front left wheel stays on brake. The brake does not release the wheel.
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Either your caliper is bad or the rubber brake line is bad. Have you checked either? If not, do this.

Securely lift the front of the vehicle remove the tire where the problem is. Press the brakes so the caliper sticks on. Then release pressure from the bleeder. If the caliper repleases, chances are the rubber hose is bad and only allowing pressure to travel one direction. If it still doesn't release, either the caliper piston is sticking or the pins are corroded and not allowing the caliper to release.

Let me know what you find.
Joe
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ABOUT TO BREAK
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 137,500 MILES
My rear brakes keep burning and warping. I have replaced the shoes and drums about 5 tyimes this year alone. This last time. I replaced the backing plates, hardware, shoes, wheel cylinders, and drums. The drums were turned to verify they were staight. The Axles are not bent. The bearings are good. The combination valve up on the ABS unit has been replaced. After a brake job. The rears start to warp in about 10 miles. This last time you could fry eggs on them!

Is the problem in the ABS control unit.I'm running out of things to replace!
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • EXPERT
Did problem start after the first time brakes where changed? I assume it has not occured for 137K miles
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)

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