2000 Hyundai Tiburon Cranks with no starting

  • 2.0L
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • 176,000 MILES
Hello, it seemed to all start with one week changing the radiator thermostat etc. In the process coolant leaked all over around the front of area near I guess the cam sensor. Near headers. Upon start up it ran kind of sluggish and idled rough. About 2 weeks or month after I was driving down the freeway and the car just cut out like ran out of gas. I tried cranking and nothing. Pull over to let sit for awhile and still nothing. Towed it home and I replaced cam sensor crank sensor idle air control valve and then I also replaced the fuel pump relay and EFI main relay. Still cranks no start. I have Spark coming from plugs, however I hear no fuel pump. A friend also checked on it and said not power to fuel injectors. Then They thought could be ECU. Could a bad Coolant Temp Sensor that might have gotten soaked in coolant or is bad cause a signal somewhere to have the no start?I'm basically lost with trying everything. Thank you for your help.
Do you
have the same problem?
Thursday, August 27th, 2015 AT 1:15 AM

1 Reply

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.

Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.
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Thursday, August 27th, 2015 AT 2:04 AM

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