P1258 coolant overtemp protection

Tiny
DANREID
  • 2000 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 184,000 MILES

I have a 2000 chevrolet 1500 and my check engine light is on. The code is reading coolant overtemp protection active. Will this cause my engine to run rough and misfire

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Sunday, July 17th, 2011 AT 6:26 PM

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Tiny
2CARPROS KEN
  • ADMIN
  • 12,124 POSTS

It sounds like you have an engine that is overheating which can be caused by a blown head gasket. Here are some guides that will help us see what's going on.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-overheating-or-running-hot

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/head-gasket-blown-test

Here are some notes from the book

Typically, a P1258 will cause the engine to run poorly as the PCM disables injectors at random in an effort to lower the engine temperature. Is the engine overheating, or is this code present at all times. If the coolant is being read as over 270 degrees(F), this engine protection mode is activated. If you have an overheat condition, that is what is causing the problem.

DTC P1258 Engine Coolant Overtemperature - Protection Mode Active

Circuit Description
In order to reduce the engine temperature the powertrain control module (PCM) has the ability to disable a number of fuel injectors during an engine over temperature condition. The PCM considers the engine over temperature whenever the engine coolant temperature (ECT) reaches a predetermined temperature. This DTC sets in order to show that the PCM detected an over temperature condition and that the system engaged the protection mode.

The PCM sends the instrument panel cluster (IPC) engine coolant temperature information via the Class 2 circuit. This information is used for controlling the coolant temperature gauge and for displaying a message when the coolant temperature is out of the normal operating range. The IPC displays a message when the engine coolant temperature is more than 121 C (250 F).

Conditions for Running the DTC
No active ECT DTCs

The engine is running.

Conditions for Setting the DTC
The engine coolant temperature is 132 C (270 F) or more.

The above conditions are present for more than 10 seconds.

Action Taken When the DTC Sets
The PCM illuminates the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) when the diagnostic runs and fails.

The PCM records the operating conditions at the time the diagnostic fails. The PCM stores this information in the Freeze Frame and the Failure Records.

The message center displays a message.

The PCM alternately disables 4 injectors.

Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC
The PCM turns OFF the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) after 3 consecutive ignition cycles that the diagnostic runs and does not fail.

A last test failed, or current DTC, clears when the diagnostic runs and does not fail.

A history DTC clears after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles, if no failures are reported by this or any other emission related diagnostic.

Use a scan tool in order to clear the MIL and the DTC.

Diagnostic Aids
Important: Remove any debris from the PCM connector surfaces before servicing the PCM. Inspect the PCM connector gaskets when diagnosing or replacing the PCM. Ensure that the gaskets are installed correctly. The gaskets prevent water intrusion into the PCM.

Important:

The PCM enables the engine coolant over temperature mode when coolant temperature exceeds 132 C (270 F). Engine damage still could occur if the customer operates the vehicle too long in an overheat condition. Ensure no engine mechanical conditions exists after the overheat condition is repaired.

If an overheating condition exists, repair the overheat condition and change the engine oil and filter.

Using the Freeze Frame and Failure Records data may aid in locating an intermittent condition. If you cannot duplicate the DTC, the information included in the Freeze Frame and Failure Records data can help determine how many miles since the DTC set. The Fail Counter and Pass Counter can also help determine how many ignition cycles the diagnostic reported a pass or a fail. Operate the vehicle within the same Freeze Frame conditions, such as RPM, load, vehicle speed, temperature etc, that you observed. This will isolate when the DTC failed. For an intermittent condition, refer to Symptoms.

Test Description
The number below refers to the step number on the diagnostic table.

1.A cooling system that is not functioning properly enables the engine protection mode.

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken

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Friday, December 1st, 2017 AT 7:35 PM
Tiny
THOMPSON.ANDREA1993
  • 2000 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • 6.0L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 104,000 MILES

It is overheating and we cannot figure out why. We have replaced the thermostat, radiator, water pump (twice), flushed the heater core and the entire system, burped the system and cleaned the overflow tank in case it was cruddy and stopping up the lines. Nothing. The heat is sporadic, the top radiator hose gets hot but has no pressure, and when it overheats it spews from the overflow tank heavily. Overheating tends to coincide with heat loss inside the truck.

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Friday, December 1st, 2017 AT 7:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • EXPERT
  • 4,332 POSTS

Run a combustion gas test on the cooling system. Rapid overheat the "hot" hose with no coolant pressure and no visible leaks and with the parts you replaced is a sign of a failing head gasket. The gas test will show you if there is exhaust gas in the coolant. There shouldn't be. You can usually "rent" the kit from a parts store.

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Friday, December 1st, 2017 AT 7:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CARPROS RYAN
  • ADMIN
  • 77 POSTS

Have you replaced your coolant reservoir cap? A bad cap can cause that and be tough to diagnose. They are super cheap so it is a good idea to replace it anyways.

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Friday, December 1st, 2017 AT 7:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DUSTINVAUGHAN
  • 2000 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • 170,000 MILES

I have a 2000 silverado with a 5.3 vortec engine. It has been overheating on me for the past month or so. It started out as only overheating on long hills and then would cool back down to normal after I made it to the top but it has progressed to where it will now overheat at normal highway speeds of after idling for long periods of time. It seems to cool it down when I turn on the heater but sometimes this doesn't work. I have flushed the coolant although I didn't use the prestone flush and I replaced the thermostat. The big thing that gets me though is that if I pop the hood even after the guage is showing 230-240 degrees I can still touch the top and bottom radiator hoses and they don't feel hotter than normal and there is no indication of it overheating. I haven't had to add any coolant and it is circulating. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

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Friday, December 1st, 2017 AT 7:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
  • 29,088 POSTS

Your observations suggest you have a gauge problem and not an overheating problem. The best place to start is by connecting a scanner to read live sensor data during a test drive. The Engine Computer uses a different coolant temperature sensor. If it reads normal, as in less than 220 degrees, suspect the sensor for the coolant temperature gauge.

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Friday, December 1st, 2017 AT 7:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ROBERT TALMADGE
  • 2000 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • 5.3L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 220,000 MILES

My truck, overheated while parked with the A/C running. The radiator fluid was overflowing out of the reservoir overflow tube.

There is a tube next to the overflow on the reservoir and it was shooting fluid back into the reservoir. There are no leaks on any of the radiator lines, water pump or heads.

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Friday, December 1st, 2017 AT 7:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JIS001
  • EXPERT
  • 2,489 POSTS

Check to see that the thermostat operates properly.

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Friday, December 1st, 2017 AT 7:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JMCK1817 TJ
  • 2000 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • 97,000 MILES

I have a 2000 1500 silverado V8 5.3 (standard shift). Starts real good when cold in the mornings. However, when engine is hot, or hot weather when parked outside, it takes two to three cranks. Have replaced spark plugs, fuel filter, oxygen sensors, pc valve. Why does it continue with same problem?

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Friday, December 1st, 2017 AT 7:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
  • 42,119 POSTS

Have the fuel pressure tested. Since problem is temperature related, I would suggest checking the Engine Coolant Temperature as well.

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Friday, December 1st, 2017 AT 7:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MAJMARK
  • 2000 CHEVROLET SILVERADO

Engine Cooling problem
2000 Chevy Silverado V8 Two Wheel Drive Automatic 117000 miles

I have the 2000 Chevy Silverado 1500 with a 5.3. As I was driving home from work, after about 15 minutes the temp gage began to go up to about 250 Deg. I popped the hood and the coolant in the reservoir was above the hot level. Top hose to the radiator was warm, low hose was cool and heat coming from my vents was warm, not hot.
Figure it was the thermostat not opening all the way. Changed it out (tested it before installing as the first replacement I got didn't work). Burped the system out of any trapped air and filled up the reservoir to the proper level after it cooled. Also noticed when burping the system out I would raise the RPM of the engine and watch the coolant level go down and then back up after taking my foot of the accelerator and so I figured the pump was working. Took it for a test drive. Good hot air coming from the vents and temp gage read normal (190-200 deg).
Got up the next morning, coolant level way down to the bottom of the reservoir. Filled it up and went to work. Got about 7 mile out and the temp on the gage climbed to nearly 260 deg and heater was blowing cool air then warm (not hot). Also took my oil cap off to see if there was any milky film on the cap from coolant leaking in to the engine and it was dry.
Driving me nuts. Any suggestions?

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Friday, December 1st, 2017 AT 7:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • EXPERT
  • 31,888 POSTS

Hi there,

I would start with getting the radiator cleaned & flow tested, also replace the pressure cap, start there.

Mark (mhpautos)

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Friday, December 1st, 2017 AT 7:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MAJMARK
  • MEMBER

Thanks Mark, I'll give this a try and see if this will solve the problem.

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Friday, December 1st, 2017 AT 7:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TEX3523
  • 2000 CHEVROLET SILVERADO

Engine Cooling problem
2000 Chevy Silverado V8 Two Wheel Drive Automatic 110000 miles

yesterday I was driving on the freeway about 65, when my engine started to overheat. I pulled over, let cool, started back up and drove. I noticed that if I kept the rpms above 2000 or so, it would maintain my temperature about 240. As soon as I stopped it would start to heat up. I also noticed that my clutch fan did not seem to be engaging, as I didn't hear the air flow, also when I spun the fan with the truck off, it did not seem to have much resistance.
After letting the engine cool, I drove it again to look for symptoms. The temp gage cam right up to 195 and stayed there, then after about 10 minutes of driving the temperature started to climb.
My inclination is its the thermostat. I was just wondering if my thermostat is failing close, would my clutch fan not engage, because it thinks the radiator is cool? Or do I have 2 problems? The temperature outside was in the 50's, so I wouldn't think the clutch fan would need to engage at cruising speed with no load on the motor.
Thank you for your time.

Austin Paige
austinepaige@yahoo. Com

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Friday, December 1st, 2017 AT 7:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SCOTTY DEE
  • MEMBER

Is the coolant level correct? If so inspect the fan clutch operation, inspect the radiator for restrictions, thermostat not opening properly, possible water pump impellar problems.

You might do a block test just to be on the safe side.

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Friday, December 1st, 2017 AT 7:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
POYNTER15
  • 2000 CHEVROLET SILVERADO

Engine Cooling problem
2000 Chevy Silverado V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic

My buddy has a 2000 chevy silverado 1500 z71, last week it started to overheat, so we went through some steps and put a new thermostat on it it's cooled down alot but when he turns the air conditioning the engine temp starts going up again, what might be other options to check to see what is causing this thank you.

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Friday, December 1st, 2017 AT 7:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
02REDCAMARO
  • MEMBER

Not much info here (mileage, maintenance performed, how it's driven, etc.) Could be water pump, radiator, cooling fans not working, low or worn out oil (remember, oil doesn't just work as a lubricant, it works as a cooler as well).

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Friday, December 1st, 2017 AT 7:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DANSAYDONTTREADONME87
  • 2000 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • 144,000 MILES

ONLY when running the AC, my temperature gauge will slowly rise until the coolant temperature light will come on, even when the truck is idling! But, when I turn the AC off, the temp gauge will slowly reduce back to normal operating temperature. Also when the gauge gets higher, the AC coming out of the vents will get warmer than it should. What is causing it to overheat?

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Friday, December 1st, 2017 AT 7:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • EXPERT
  • 18,982 POSTS

Faulty fan clutch or particaly cloged radiator. If it runs OK down hyway then fan clutch

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+1
Friday, December 1st, 2017 AT 7:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RACE_INC
  • 2000 CHEVROLET SILVERADO

Engine Cooling problem
2000 Chevy Silverado V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic 145000 miles

I have a problem and hope someone here can help. I have a 2000 Silverado with a 5.3 motor. When the truck is up to operating temp and even after driving a while, the upper radiator hose is hot and the lower hose that goes to the thermostat housing on the water pump is cold. I have replaced the thermostat thinking it was stuck but it didn't fix the problem. Anyone have the same problem or know what I'm dealing with? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

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Friday, December 1st, 2017 AT 7:36 PM (Merged)

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