I am very mechanically inclined. I cannot afford to take car to shop because I have a family of four and I'm on tiny amount of Disability. I try to do all the work myself, even if I'm bedridden for the next week!
The car had the Alternater replaced last year(me). The battery is brand new. The car went dead and will not charge. It's so much trouble having to replace the alt. On this particular model and it takes special tools and a long time (for me anyway) I took the alt. Off (again) and brought it back to Auto Zone and they replaced it. I also found out the wheel bearing was bad and it was welded onto the hub and other parts. I ended up having to use a dremel and cold punch, but after many hours I finally got it! Back to the issue, I put an ohmmeter on the 175 amp megafuse and it has continuity. (Someone said they can get week and no longer work and still have continuity) I have checked all wires from the battery to the starter, then the starter to the altern. They are all in good shape, there is continuity in ohms and volts through A/C or D/C it reads fine close to 13 volts. I crank it up and turn the heater on high and the lights on bright, there is a significant drop but still above 12 volts until after 10-20 minutes of idling it will drop. The Alternater is not charging at all. My wife was picking my two boys up from school when it first happened. She tried to describe to me what happened. I had to drive it myself to find out more. After driving it a little while the Tach goes out first, then the Speedometer goes out. It will start bucking and stalling soon after the Tach drops to Zero. The lights will flicker a little bit and then the car will die and if I try to crank it again it will just click(like a dead battery) I pop the hood and put another hot battery in and it will start-up just fine and will run ok till the battery depletes itself once again. There is also a tiny vacuum leak or something with an air sound once the battery is near dead, after installing the hot battery it does not sound like that. I have checked the onboard diagnostics by self reading the flashes, it reads PCM(code 19) which is the power control module after further reading and studying the book or manual I learned that once the battery is disconnected(for longer than ten minutes) it will pop-up this code and I don't want to try replacing this if it's not the problem. When it first happened with my wife there was a red light that popped up indicating the battery. Since then I have drove the car(only down my driveway till it dies) and there are no other new codes popping up, so I can't do a diagnostic check with the beeps. My dad has a code reader but he says it will not read any problems till there is a code. There are allmost 40 sensors and relays, etc. On this car! I just can.T afford to start replacing them. I really need help with this issue, so if anyone can give me any ideas or info or help me in any way at all, I would surely appreciate it!
Thanks so much if you respond!
FOOD FOR THOUGHT
You know, I've had many old school cars and trucks, including my fav. A 65' chevy stepside with three on the tree. Why do these new cars have so many sensors and relays, etc. If only they would stick with the true and tried proven method, there would not be so many problems with these newer cars(mines allmost 15 years old) OH! I know why! It keeps us shade tree mechanics out of the picture more! They are making it where even licensed mechanics with their on shop can't work on them either. You have to bring it to the dealer!
Example: my friend has a Volvo and I offered to help him change the oil to save them some money, he told me that he needed front end work also, I said well I could help him do it. He informed me that he had to change the oil through the dealer, that they had a special tool &/or a lock code for the oil and that it would void the warranty if it was not done at the dealer! I was going to put him some synthetic oil in it and he said they charge him allmost 100 bucks and it's regular oil not even a blend! It seems perfect that they would do that, the car will last the warranty but probably not over 300,000 miles. I use to do a lot of work till my accident. I've come across a lot of older cars with 3, 4 and even 500,000 miles on them. Those days are pretty much over, unless it's a diesel. They just make em crappier and crappier every few years. I was in my 65' and I pulled behind my friends wifes car(about an 85 ford ltd) a true hunk of metal. Well, his wife rushed out the door and he said man, did you pull behind my wife's car because she don't look behind her. BOOM! I heard a loud noise and we all ran outside her car was totalled! My truck had a little tiny scratch and that cars trunk was jacked up and just totalled!
I could not believe it! What happens nowdays if one of these lil cars or plastic cars hits it? Even those airbags can't save you!
have the same problem?
Friday, October 19th, 2012 AT 5:17 PM