Brake goes to the floor?

Tiny
CRAFTSMAN62
  • MEMBER
I am sorry, I haven't got back to my brakes yet. I got a new problem in dealing with. I was changing out my thermostat and broke the bolt off in my intake. So I am dealing with that now soon as I get that resolved I will get back on my brakes. Somebody put lock tight on the treads an that's why it broke off. Dennis
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Thursday, August 27th, 2020 AT 6:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Dennis,

Not a problem. Take care when removing the broken bolt. Make sure you center the drill and use a quality easy out. You don't want to break that off in the bolt. They are nearly impossible to drill.

When you get to it, let me know.
Take care,
Joe
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Thursday, August 27th, 2020 AT 6:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CRAFTSMAN62
  • MEMBER
I tried easy out, didn't work. I figure the lock tight kept it from coming out. How I got the other bolt out was pure luck. I drill it out am going to hardware store tomorrow and get a self tapping bolt that will fix it.
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Thursday, August 27th, 2020 AT 6:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CRAFTSMAN62
  • MEMBER
It's aluminum so it shouldn't b a problem cutting new threads. Have a good night. Dennis
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Thursday, August 27th, 2020 AT 6:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
No, you should be fine. Take care and let me know how things turn out.

Joe
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Thursday, August 27th, 2020 AT 6:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CRAFTSMAN62
  • MEMBER
Got a problem changed out my thermostat discover I have small hole right next to where my thermostat sits. I had a small leak now I know where my water was going. What is best to seal the hole? I had to add a little water every now and then. What do you recommend?
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Thursday, August 27th, 2020 AT 6:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Can you upload a pic of the hole so I can see what you are dealing with? If it is aluminum you are dealing with, the right way is to mig weld. They make products for metal repairs, I don't know how well they can take the pressure.

Joe
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Thursday, August 27th, 2020 AT 6:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DANDI
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 CHEVROLET S-10
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 115,000 MILES
All of a sudden the brakes on my truck starting acting like they are manual brakes instead of power brakes. There is a noise that they make when I press on them that sounds like air filtering out of something. Also whe I press on the brake my engine runs faster. I do not have good stopping ability as well

thanks for your help
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Thursday, August 27th, 2020 AT 6:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CEXPT
  • MEMBER
Could be a vacuum leak on the brake hose and brake booster

To check the brake booster, pump the brake pedal with the engine off until you've bled off all the vacuum from the unit. Then hold the pedal down and start the engine. You should feel the pedal depress slightly as engine vacuum enters the booster and pulls on the diaphragm. No change? Then check the vacuum hose connection and engine vacuum. If okay, the problem is in the booster and the booster needs to be replaced.
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Thursday, August 27th, 2020 AT 6:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CRAFTSMAN62
  • MEMBER
You will have to blow it up to see the hole it's to the right of the bolt hole the hole is not all the way though it's just enough to cause a leak.
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Thursday, August 27th, 2020 AT 6:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CRAFTSMAN62
  • MEMBER
There is a bunch of sealants epoxy's out there like JB water weld an others I been told that gorilla glue got some stuff out that might work I just don't know which one I sure go with. I know in time I will have to replace the intake but maybe I can prolong it until it starts getting warmer and I have more funds.
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Thursday, August 27th, 2020 AT 6:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CRAFTSMAN62
  • MEMBER
I decided to just go ahead an get me a new manifold an b done.
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Thursday, August 27th, 2020 AT 6:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JOBLANCH
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 CHEVROLET S-10
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 187,000 MILES
My brakes are completly gone - and something broke (a disc of some sort) on my front right tire - I hade enough brakes to get home after that happend but there is nothing today - how much would it cost to fix this is it worth it or should I just junk it
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Thursday, August 27th, 2020 AT 6:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BLACKOP555
  • EXPERT
I need to know what broke before I can help you.

What broke? Can you get a picture of it? Do you mean pad or rotor?
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Thursday, August 27th, 2020 AT 6:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Actually, that is the best thing to do. Let me know when we can get back the brake issue.

I don't know if you need them, but here are the directions for both the upper and lower. They include torque specs and tightening sequence. The attached pics correlate with the directions. I will start with the upper.

Normally, you can remove the lower without taking the upper off. However, since the lower one needs replaced, I included info related to the upper as well.
_______________________________________

1996 Chevy Truck S10/T10 P/U 2WD V6-4.3L VIN W
Intake Manifold Replacement (Upper)
Vehicle Engine, Cooling and Exhaust Engine Intake Manifold Service and Repair Procedures Intake Manifold Replacement (Upper)
INTAKE MANIFOLD REPLACEMENT (UPPER)
Upper Intake Manifold And Components

pic 1

Upper Intake Manifold Installation

pic 2

REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Negative battery cable.
2. Drain the engine coolant.
3. Air cleaner inlet duct.
4. Wiring harness connectors and brackets.
5. Throttle linkage and bracket.
6. Fuel lines and bracket at the rear of the lower intake manifold.
7. Brake booster vacuum hose.
8. Ignition coil.
9. PCV pipe and vacuum hoses.
10. Purge solenoid and bracket.
11. Upper intake manifold bolts and manifold. Mark the location of the bolts for proper reassembly.

INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. New upper manifold gasket with sealing lines facing up.
2. Upper intake manifold. Do not pinch the injector wires between the upper and lower intake manifolds.
3. Upper intake manifold bolts and studs noting the marks made during disassembly. Tighten the bolts in two steps:
a. Tighten to 5 Nm (44 in lbs).
B. Tighten to 10 Nm (88 in lbs).

4. Purge solenoid and bracket.
5. PCV pipe and vacuum hoses.
6. Ignition coil.
7. Brake booster vacuum hose.
8. Fuel lines and bracket at the rear of the lower intake manifold.
9. Throttle linkage and bracket.
10. Wiring harness connectors and brackets.
11. Air cleaner inlet duct.
12. Negative battery cable.
13. Fill and recheck engine coolant level.
14. Inspect for leaks:
a. Turn the ignition switch to the "ON" position for 2 seconds.
B. Turn the ignition switch to the "OFF" for 10 seconds.
C. Turn the ignition switch to the "ON" position.
D. Check for fuel leaks.

_______________________________________

1996 Chevy Truck S10/T10 P/U 2WD V6-4.3L VIN W
Intake Manifold Replacement (Lower)
Vehicle Engine, Cooling and Exhaust Engine Intake Manifold Service and Repair Procedures Intake Manifold Replacement (Lower)
INTAKE MANIFOLD REPLACEMENT (LOWER)

pic 3

Applying Sealant To The Rear Of The Block

pic 4

Applying Sealant To The Front Of The Block
pic 5

Tightening Sequence

pic 6

REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Negative battery cable.
2. Drain the cooling system.
3. Air cleaner intake duct.
4. Wiring harness connectors and brackets.
5. Throttle linkage and bracket.
6. Fuel lines and bracket at the rear of the lower intake manifold.
7. Vacuum hoses to upper and lower intake manifolds.
8. Distributor. Mark the housing and rotor positions for proper reassembly.
9. Upper radiator hose at the thermostat housing.
10. Heater hoses at the lower intake manifold.
11. Wiring harness and brackets.
12. Transmission oil level indicator and tube (automatic transmissions only).
13. Air conditioning compressor and bracket.
14. EGR tube, clamp, and bolt.
15. Alternator bracket bolt next to the thermostat housing.
16. Lower intake manifold bolts and manifold.
17. Clean gasket surfaces, carbon buildup and deposits from EGR and exhaust passages. Also, scale and deposits from coolant passages.
18. Inspect manifold for cracks, broken flanges and gasket surface damage.

INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Gaskets onto the cylinder head with the port blocking plates facing the rear of the engine and the "This Side Up" stamping facing up.
2. Apply a 5 mm (1/4 inch) thick bead of Wacker T-330 RTV, GM P/N 12346192 to the front and rear sealing areas of the engine block and intake manifold. Extend the RTV bead 13 mm (0.499 inch) up the cylinder head in order to seal and retain the gaskets.
3. Lower intake manifold to the engine and apply sealer to the lower intake manifold bolts.
4. Install the lower intake manifold bolts. Tighten bolts in sequence and in three steps:
a. First sequence to 3 Nm (27 in lbs).
B. Second sequence to 12 Nm (106 in lbs).
C. Final sequence to 15 Nm (11 ft lbs).

5. Alternator bracket bolt next to the thermostat housing.
6. EGR tube, clamp, and bolt.
7. Air conditioning compressor and bracket.
8. Transmission oil level indicator and tube (automatic transmissions only).
9. Wiring harness and brackets.
10. Heater hoses at the lower intake manifold.
11. Upper radiator hose at the thermostat housing.
12. Distributor. Noting the housing and rotor positions as marked during disassembly.
13. Vacuum hoses to upper and lower intake manifolds.
14. Fuel lines and bracket at the rear of the lower intake manifold.
15. Throttle linkage and bracket.
16. Wiring harness connectors and brackets.
17. Air cleaner intake duct.
18. Fill and recheck the coolant level.
19. Negative battery cable.
20. Inspect for leaks:
a. Turn the ignition switch to the "ON" position for 2 seconds.
B. Turn the ignition switch to the "OFF" for 10 seconds.
C. Turn the ignition switch to the "ON" position.
D. Check for fuel leaks.

_________________________

Hope this helps.

Take care,
Joe
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Thursday, August 27th, 2020 AT 6:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CRAFTSMAN62
  • MEMBER
Thanks for the info. I got stressed out over this, so I took a step back for a bit and thought about it. First the part store order the wrong part they order the upper in stead if the lower. So I an thinking about what to do next changing out everything is a lot of work. I've done this kind of work before but it has been a while and engines have changed a lot since I have done this. Last time I done this was on a 1988 Dakota.
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Thursday, August 27th, 2020 AT 6:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

You will be okay. The Dakota didn't have an upper and lower, but it is still basically the same. Let me know what you decide or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe
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Thursday, August 27th, 2020 AT 6:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CRAFTSMAN62
  • MEMBER
I got Permatex steel and metal weld and going to put a threaded stud in the bolt hole an fill it with Permatex steel an metal weld and let it sit and dry good overnight and put some in that little hole. Maybe this will buy me some time. I will see how it goes an go from there.
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Thursday, August 27th, 2020 AT 6:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Sounds like a plan. Keep me in the loop. Hopefully that will buy you some time. However, I feel really confident you will be able to replace the manifold when you are ready.

Take care,
Joe
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Thursday, August 27th, 2020 AT 6:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TROYWILLIAMS43
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 CHEVROLET S-10
  • 4.3L
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 220,000 MILES
My truck has a low brake pedal, I have replaced the front brake calipers, rear brake shoes, and still the brake pedal goes to the floor. I have clamped off the two front lines and the rear. That gives me a good firm pedal. If I take the clamp off the rear I lose about an inch of the pedal. I remove the clamp from the left front I lose about another inch of brake pedal. And of course I take the right front off I lose everything again.
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Thursday, August 27th, 2020 AT 6:31 PM (Merged)

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