Radiator cap?

Where is it? Do you have to remove the cover panels over the radiator to access?

My car overheated, we replaced the coolant censor because the fans werent coming on, that lastest a week and it started to overheat again, so we replaced the thermostat. Still overheated. My husband seems to think there is a clog because the coolant comes out of the resovior tank. Ad when he checks the coolant there is absolutely no coolant in it. I want to replace the water pump next, but he apparently ruled the water pump out I do not know why though. I also want to do the radiator flush, but I can not find the radiator cap. I looked online and was told there is none, and when you fill the radiator to do it thru the coolant tank. Can I flush it through that also?

Its a v6 3.1 L

Does the coolant surge tank look like it has sluge inside? If so you probally have intake gaskets going out. Also look at your hoses and see if they look like they are sweating. That would mean you have oil in cooling system.

How would I know if I need a new radiator cap?

I have a haynes manual that tells me about a radiator plug wich I cannot find this has no radiator cap only a reservoir tank I wanna flush the coolant to replace the dexcool before it eats a few things !The hoses are both mid way of the radiator no upper as the older models do I need to remove the hoses and radiator to flush this puppy good? Thanks denis

I think you are correct and the car doesnt have a drain cock/plug. You will have to remove one of the radiator hoses to do a thorough flush. I would recommend getting a chemical that you add to the coolant prior to flushing. You add the chemical then drive it and the chemical is cleaning while you are driving. Then you drain out the cleaner while flushing.

I'm sorry I totally missed the mileage of the car. Having said that, 100K anitfreeze has a bad habit of getting gunky. If its the original antifreeze in the car, it is now working on 5 years old, so yes I would say a flush is in order due to time, not miles. Heater cores have very small tubes that plug up with the gunk.

There are cleaners that wont harm engines regardless of what they are made of. We constantly use BG products on all engines that come in the shop and have never yet (knock on wood), to my knowlege, had an engine repair due to any of the chemicals involved with a power flush. I'm not plugging BG products, but that is one that I am aware of that is safe.

EDIT: The previous poster is correct in that the instructions say to not drive the vehicle with the cleaner in it. In my personal car, I drive with the cleaner in for a couple hours to ensure a thorough cleaning.