Engine turns over but will not start after overhaul

Tiny
TOWERSINTHESKY
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 CHEVROLET BLAZER
  • 130,000 MILES
Replaced engine with salvaged engine ran good for 150 miles then radiator was filled with chocolate milk first thought was 3 core radiator but coolant was burping out of radiator as in blown head or intake gasket. Replaced upper gaskets and realized it was the radiator still ran good until 195 degrees then died. Pulled engine replaced all gaskets reinstalled engine timing is correct no.1 tdc rotor on the (6) on distributor which is pointing to no.1 plug wire. Engine cranks but will not start getting fuel and spark at no.1 plug but not detenating. Please help.
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Wednesday, October 5th, 2011 AT 2:22 AM

20 Replies

Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
Choc milk is an indicator of a blown head gasket. Typical of used engines.
You need to most likely remove the engine, remove the heads, have them checked for warpage and cracks, which is common and check the mains and rod bearings for coolant contamination.

Roy
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Wednesday, October 5th, 2011 AT 2:27 AM
Tiny
TOWERSINTHESKY
  • MEMBER
No sign of coolant contamination in crank case and had heads magnafluxed and checked for worpage tourqed everything to specs ran fine after first overhaul now on this overhaul not starting the cause of choc. Milk was crack in radiator between oil cooler and antifreeze cooler
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Wednesday, October 5th, 2011 AT 2:32 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
Remember, it needs at least 60 lbs of fuel pressure. Check the compression both wet and dry.
Bring number one to tdc on compression and make sure you have the rotor at number one inside the cap.

Roy
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Wednesday, October 5th, 2011 AT 2:40 AM
Tiny
TOWERSINTHESKY
  • MEMBER
Okay have told you in first description no.1 is at tdc and rotor is at no.1 new crank position sensor and crank position sensor plenty of fuel pressure and spark at no.1 plug no detination everything torqued to specs have 90lbs compression on all cyl. And holds compression can't be mechanical has to be electrical. I have addressed all the issues you are advising I check cant get it started so no trouble codes to go by yet.
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Wednesday, October 5th, 2011 AT 2:48 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
Now is the time you need a scan tool to see if the pcm is seeing a rpm signal from the crank sensor and you need to see the cam signal or timing on the distributor, now called the cam sensor. It has to be 0 degrees plus or minus 5 degrees.
I hope plenty of fuel pressure is 60 at least.

Roy
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Wednesday, October 5th, 2011 AT 3:54 AM
Tiny
TOWERSINTHESKY
  • MEMBER
No codes battery was out while repairs where being done yes fuel at 68lbs. Have auto-xray ezlink but when scan is performed no codes come up and when monitoring I can see rpm on screen throtle possition at 7% but not seing air flow rate or fuelair ratio
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Wednesday, October 5th, 2011 AT 4:02 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
Forget about any codes. The only thing left is timing. You need to re verify both chain and distributor timing.

Roy
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Wednesday, October 5th, 2011 AT 4:08 AM
Tiny
TOWERSINTHESKY
  • MEMBER
Went thru it 6 times no1 at tdc rotor at the number 6 stamped it distributor which points to no.1 plug cranks like out of time. Have beat myself up with this one new cam sensor and new crank sensor changed distributor new rotor and plug and new cap new map new mas air flow new tps new coil new pcv im at wits end
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Wednesday, October 5th, 2011 AT 4:15 AM
Tiny
TOWERSINTHESKY
  • MEMBER
Engine ran fine before removale from vehicle
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Wednesday, October 5th, 2011 AT 4:29 AM
Tiny
RIVERMIKERAT
  • MEMBER
90 PSI is extremely low for compression. Normally it should be around 120. Try pulling the distributor and reinstalling 180 degrees out from where you currently have it.
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Wednesday, October 5th, 2011 AT 5:20 AM
Tiny
TOWERSINTHESKY
  • MEMBER
Nothing changed after rotating distributor 180 and have rechecked it before only 1 revolution to get 90lbs. After 3 revolutions have 127lbs.
Now getting discouraged.
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Wednesday, October 5th, 2011 AT 7:23 PM
Tiny
RIVERMIKERAT
  • MEMBER
Compression needs to be checked with the starter turning the engine, not the engine being turned by hand.
Try this:
Pull the plugs. Insert them back into the plug wire boot. Use an insulated pair of pliers to hold the threads against a good engine ground and have someone crank the engine over. I know you said it was getting spark, but this test will ensure that the electrodes within the spark plugs aren't faulty.

Something about your first post caught my attention. The #1 plug wire should NOT be on the #6 plug tower on the distributor cap. It should be on #1. Reset the wires and distributor to make sure that #1 is on #1.
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Wednesday, October 5th, 2011 AT 8:14 PM
Tiny
TOWERSINTHESKY
  • MEMBER
No inside the distributor there are numbers stamped into the case a number 6 and a number 8 both 6 cyl and 8 cyl gm use the same distributor rotor should be pointing to the number 6 which is the number 1 post on cap anyway before reading this last post I did not change anything it started weired accourance but now when it reaches 161 degrees and thermostat opens it stalls and after a few restarts now will not start again
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Wednesday, October 5th, 2011 AT 9:07 PM
Tiny
RIVERMIKERAT
  • MEMBER
In my 30+ years of experience, the wire to #1 plug has always been on the tower labelled #1, when there has been a #1 label. Always.
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Wednesday, October 5th, 2011 AT 9:46 PM
Tiny
TOWERSINTHESKY
  • MEMBER
When you can get ahold of on look inside on the flang of the distributor on both sides of the cam position sensor inside the distributor not on the cap.
Anyways new problem after warm-up starts pumping water out of overflow, ( only when it warms up) then after thermostat opens the radiator empties as long as I replace the water as it is evacuating the engine it continues to run barely misses no oil in water no fuel smell in water no water in oil runn great until warms up
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Wednesday, October 5th, 2011 AT 10:12 PM
Tiny
RIVERMIKERAT
  • MEMBER
There are chemicals and tools you can use to check for the presence of a had gasket leaking to the cooling system. Smell isn't always going to tell you. This last problem sounds like a head gasket leaking from combustion chamber to cooling system.
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Wednesday, October 5th, 2011 AT 10:40 PM
Tiny
TOWERSINTHESKY
  • MEMBER
The weird thing is no loss of power no hesitation and very slight miss not idleing rough or trying to stall under a load

getting frustrated
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Thursday, October 6th, 2011 AT 12:05 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
Sorry but it sounds like you have a compression leak into the cooling system. From the beginning, it sounded like you had head issues but you said they were checked and passed. How about the block? Did you check the deck for level? There is something internal here and it is evident from the pushing of coolant into the overflow.
I suggest removing the plugs, insert and air tip end and use air pressure to pressure up the cylinder and see what happens with the cooling system. Look for any movement in the coolant. If there is then you have continued internal problems.

Roy
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Thursday, October 6th, 2011 AT 12:08 AM
Tiny
TOWERSINTHESKY
  • MEMBER
Okay will try tomorrow but for the mean time after reaching 195 degrees I drove it about 20 miles under a load and in 2nd gear and never over heated but upper radiator hose gets really hard when thermostat opens did well during those 20 miles.
Will post again if any problems arise and I cannot figure it out thank you guys.
( PASS IT ON )
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Thursday, October 6th, 2011 AT 12:38 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
Good luck
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Thursday, October 6th, 2011 AT 12:44 AM

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