Car shuts down while driving

Spark

Does it do it after it is warmed up? Will it cut out while idling also? If it does, do a simple test. The Air Flow Meter, or Mass Air Flow sensor (black, thin, flat device) is on the top of the aluminum throttle body near the large rubber flex hose that connects the air filter box to the throttle body (just downstream to the pass. Side) and it is held in place with 2 torx 20 security screws (they have a protrusion in the middle of it so you can't take the screws out with a regular #20 torx screwdriver) anyway with the car warmed up and idling take a screw driver or use your fingers to tap on the top of it and see if the engine will stumble or raise or lower the rpm, just by tapping on it. If it does then your AFM or MAF. Whatever they call it. Is bad. It should not change the rpm by just tapping on it.

Have replaced mass air flow, ica and cam sensor. Fuel regulator seems to be good. Any suggestions. Thanks

The check engfine light is not on, the idle is maybe a little slower than normal, the car doesn't shimmie or misfirie it just shuts off as if you turned off the key. Starts back after you shift to nutrel and turn the key

No the check engine liight is not on, it does idle slower then die. Cranks back up with the key

Hi, my 1999 buick park ave is stalling when driving. It happened before and the garage replaced crankshaft sensor, ran fine for months, then did it again and they replaced computer, ran great, now doing it again. It usually happens within 5 miles from start. I just stalls without warning. Pull over and it starts back up. No codes, nothing.I started the car yesterday and let idle for an hour and 10 minutes and it ran like new. Should I try ignition module next?
Thanks for any help
Greg

My car will stall at any given time, while
driving, while sitting at a stop or turning. It will crank back up immediately, and run for a while without any problem. I have changed all coil packs, fuel filter, cleaned top end and injectors. Battery connections are clean, battery is strong, alternator is charging. What do you suggest?

I have the same problem with my 2000 Buick Regal, and it has confounded 2 competent mechanics. The Crankshaft sensor and the Low Speed Idle Sensor were replaced, but the problem still existed.

One of the mechanics was trying to resolve an identical problem in a Buick Park Avenue. The solution was replacement of the Fuel Pressure Regulator which was leaking fuel.
He "tested" my FPR by pulling the vacuum line and sniffing. It passed the "Smell Test", indicating that no fuel had leaked.
So, while it solved the Park Avenue problem, My Buick Regal LS still stalls unpredictably when slowing down. Replacement of the FPR will cost around another $200 (part and labor). Since I have already spent almost $500 on this problem, I really don't know what to do at this point. Good luck with your problem.

1999 Buick Park Avenue mileage: 120,000. Recently my car has been stalling at all speeds, even at 60 mph. The repair shop tells me the stalling is not setting a code. Over the past three months I have replaced the mass airflow sensor, knock sensor, temperature sensor, spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, and ignition coil. The repair shop says the fuel pump and regulator are testing ok. Both the fuel pump and regulator were replaced in 1998. I even cleaned the throttlebody. Please help, this is getting expensive. Thanks Bill

Possibilities are ignition pick-up coil, ignition module, faulty ignition switch or a faulty power control module (PCM).

My wife's Park Avenue is randomly cutting out and even stalling when your driving it or even while it is idling. It won't do it until it gets to normal operating temp and then it is really not drivable because it will stall 1/2 the times that it does it. I have changed the plugs & wires, checked the fuel pressure with the key on and with it running (48lbs key on/and 44lbs running) and when it stumbles while idling the fuel pressure stays at 44lbs. I disconnected the regulator vacuum line and the pressure goes up to 48-50lbs and then goes back to 44lbs when reconnected. At this point I can't tell if it is fuel or spark/computer related. I am not getting any codes sent also. I have a Snap-On scanner and I ran the check engine light test and it will turn on when I do that so the bulb is not burned out. What would be causing this and not throwing any codes? Thanks. Oh, the dash gauge info is saying the fuel mileage is at 8 mpg and you can tell it is getting horrible mileage, we just filled it up and it's already at 5/8 tank and we've driven it only about 35 miles!

Guess you have to donate before you get a answer, LOL. Well I fixed it by putting a used air flow meter on it. When I had the scanner hooked up I could tap on top of the bad one and the grams/second would go from 5.3 or so to 1.23 and then move back up to 5 something but when it was dropping it would hesitate and try to cut out. Put the new (used) one on it and noticed that the g/sec. Had jumped to around 8-9 something and as the car warmed up was steady slightly dropping. It never did that with the old AFM. Drove it all over the place and it was working perfectly, so I cleaned it all up and traded it in for a new Hyundai Sonata:)

Engine Performance problem
1999 Buick Park Avenue 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

my check engine light is on, the codes I was given are p0102 and p0171. Both come down to recognized rich or lean code and replace maf, map, or oxygen sensor. I have replaced all of these plus the plugs, wires, fuel filter, and a fuel injector. The car still acts like it's starving for gas when I accelerate from a rolling stop. It has also hesitated at speed, and stalled out completely upon coming to a stop or making a hard turn which I need to slow way down for. What else can it be? I don't know what else the car wants.