1998 Saturn SL1



December, 17, 2010 AT 6:07 AM

My 1998 Saturn SL1 will start fine when it is cold, (runs a little rough, but ok) but after it runs for more that 15 minutes, if I shut it off it won't start back up until it has cooled down. I have a pretty good idea that it might be a clogged fuel filter, the injectors leaking a little fuel after the car has shut off, and worst case scenario. The fuel pump. The last being the least likely, because I have no problem with acceleration whatsoever.


2 Answers



December, 17, 2010 AT 11:01 AM

Next time it refuses to start don't wait for it to make up its mind-do below immediately to determine if its fuel or spark problem

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine atleast 3/16 away from ground-have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, Do you hear the fuel pump come On when you turn key on? If not check fuel pump fuse and fuel pump relay if so, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs, coil's resistances, cap and rotor, distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it and keep testing



December, 17, 2010 AT 5:58 PM

Hey rasmataz i'm going to throw my take on this one in. It is most likely a bad crank shaft sensor very common for that symptom and this year make and model car. When it doesn't start all you have to do is take two plug wire's off the coil pack's that are side by side and have someone crank the engine over the spark should be blue and jump from tower to tower. If it doesn't then I would be checking the crank shaft sensor it's towards the passenger side just below the starter mounted straight up in the engine block. If you have a multimeter the crank sensor should read some where around 800 ohm's across the two terminal's. Usually when they test bad they will read as a open on the meter. Meaning there is a incomplete circuit. The sensor is under 20.

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