1998 Renault Masters Brake pedal goes to floor

Tiny
LOLLY 3045
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 RENAULT MASTERS
  • 2.8L
  • 4 CYL
  • TURBO
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
Hello. I really need your help. We have a brake pedal that sinks to the floor ! We have tried 2 x master cylinders, new pipes, bled the brakes a million times ! Air still coming out. Tried a hydraulic brake air pressure bleeder, still no joy ! We have tried everything that the garage said it could be. Please what else could it be

Laura
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Monday, September 28th, 2015 AT 2:28 PM

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Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
MAYBE THIS COULD HELP, PAY CLOSE ATTENTION TO THE "MY" BLEEDING PROCEDURE, ESPECIALLY WHEN TO OPEN AND CLOSE THE BLEEDER SCREW.

I PASTED SOME OF THIS TOGETHER FROM OTHER POSTS I'VE ANSWERED.

This can be done on the vehicle (my preference) using two people, one pumping and one monitoring the Master Cylinder.

Www. Youtube. Com/watch?V=i3Jhbz4mVKw

(IF MY LINK DON'T WORK, COPY AND PASTE IT ON ANOTHER TAB)

I wrap string loops around the little hoses and tie a knot, as to keep the tubes from blowing off of the plastic adapters.

I take it one step further, by squeezing the little hoses with my fingers (as if I were a check valve) The VERY SLOW PUMPING OF THE PEDAL will push the fluid into the reservoir, SCOOTING BY MY PINCHING, but the pinch will not allow it TO SUCK AIR BACK, as you see in the beginning of this video. My way makes things faster, but if you did not tie the hoses to the adapters--THEY WILL BLOW LOOSE (lots of adjectives will be bust loose out of your mouth!)

This is the basic bleeding procedure I use: KEEP FLUID IN THE RESERVOIR AT ALL TIMES/ CONSTANTLY CHECKING!

START WITH FURTHEST OUT WHEEL CYLINDER, FROM THE MASTER CYLINDER, WORKING TO THE CLOSEST (RR, LR, RF, LF)

2 PEOPLE, ONE PUMPING, OTHER BLEEDING AND REFILLING

#1 man is the Bleeder

#2 man is the Pump Man

1-MAN BREAKS BLEEDER LOOSE-SNUGS IT BACK YELLS, "PUMP IT UP"

2 MAN-PUMPS 6-8 TIMES (YELLS "PUMPING") THEN HOLDS PEDAL--YELLS, "HOLDING"

1-MAN CRACKS BLEEDER. AIR/ FLUID SPURTS OUT

2-MAN YELL, "FLOOR", JUST BEFORE THE PEDAL, ACTUALLY HITS THE FLOOR

1-MAN TIGHTENS THE BLEEDER. WHILE IT IS STILL SPURTING OUT (NOT AFTER IT STOPS. OR IT WILL SUCK AIR BACK IN). THEN YELLS, "OKAY---PUMP IT UP"

PROCESS STARTS OVER UNTIL YOU ARE SATISFIED, WITH EACH WHEEL

THIS DOES NOT MATTER WHETHER THEY ARE DRUM BRAKES OR DISC.

ON DRUM BRAKES: YOU SHOULD ALREADY HAVE THE SELF-ADJUSTERS PUSHING THE SHOES CLOSE TO THE DRUMS, SHOES SLIGHTLY TOUCHING THE DRUMS, BEFORE YOU DO THE BLEEDING PROCEDURE. THIS WILL KEEP YOU PEDAL AT THE TOP AND TIGHT.

I PREFER THIS OVER USING THE ONE MAN, HOSE AND CUP, METHOD WHERE YOU SUBMERGE THE HOSE AND PUMP. TO ME THIS IS FASTER AND MUCH EZer.

IS THIS THE WAY YOU APPROACHED YOURS?
.
.

INITIAL SHOE ADJUSTMENT IS NORMALLY ALL YOU NEED TO DO.

USING A "BRAKE SPOON" AFTER THE WHEEL IS ON, FROM THE BACKSIDE IS A BIT HARDER. OVER-TIGHTENING IS EVEN WORSE, IN THAT NOW YOU HAVE TO POKE A LITTLE SCREWDRIVER IN BESIDE "THE SPOON" TO HOLD THE "KNIFE" OFF OF THE STARWHEEL, SO YOU CAN SPIN IT BACKWARDS TO LOOSEN THE SHOES

SO, 1ST REPLACE THE DRUM AND HOLD IT TIGHT AND "LEVEL"/ "FLAT" ON THE FLANGE AND TURN IT WITH YOUR HANDS. DO YOU HEAR A SCRUB?

IF NOT REMOVE THE DRUM AND DO IT AGAIN PUT THE DRUM BACK ON---SPIN---LISTEN

CONTINUE TO EXPAND THE SHOES TILL IT DOES SCRUB A LITTLE----BUT THERE IS NO DRAG OR RESISTANCE

(AFTER YOU GET EXPERIENCED AT THIS---THE FEEL OF THE DRUM GOING BACK ON---LETS YOU KNOW HOW FAR YOU CAN CLICK AWAY. USUALLY A LOT IN THE BEGINNING. THEN A FEW AT A TIME, AS THE DRUM GET HARDER TO SLIDE ON---BUT NOT SO HARD YOU POUND IT ON!)----IF IT'S RIGHT, THE DRUM WILL SLIDE RIGHT OFF WITHOUT YANKING ON THE SHOES!

BACK IT OFF. IF YOU GO TOO FAR AND FEEL RESISTANCE WHILE TURNING THE DRUM!

NOW THE SHOES ARE CLOSE TO THE DRUMS YOU ARE DONE ADJUSTING----THE SELF ADJUSTERS WILL TAKE OVER FROM HERE. DO BOTH SIDES OF THE VEHICLE!

LET ME KNOW HOW IT'S GOING. SEND A PIC OF YOUR RIG.

THE MEDIC
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Monday, September 28th, 2015 AT 4:55 PM

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