1998 HONDA CIVIC TRANSMISSION FLARE

  • Tiny
  • Rivermikerat
  • MEMBER

I couldn't tell you honestly what would happen or might happen. It might fix the issue in the short run, but it may cause other problems over time as well.

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Monday, May 28th, 2012 AT 1:36 AM
  • Tiny
  • Ihbigred
  • MEMBER

Bgorpy, I believe from my research that the linear solenoid is a variable position solenoid controlled by the PCM. My guess is that for some reason there is a bad set of voltages going to it and by me tricking the computer reading a different temperature then that solenoid is being held in a slightly different position. I have looked into building a "Black Box" that would contain the circuitry to bypass the ECT sensor when it got to a specific resistance and then if the car really got "hot" then allow the ECT to take back over, or whenever the car cooled back down the ECT would gain control again. But I have not had time to sit down and go through the circuit theory. One thing I did not like about the potentiometer is that if the car sat and cooled down it had to be removed so the car could start because of fuel/air mixture cold start purposes. Kind of became a nuisance! I wish you lived close so we could try my EX PCM out on your car. Because I continue to stick with it being a PCM issue as I have found it to be the problem on the 98-02 Accord shift problems. I agree with rivermikerat, it could cause issues later on down the line not knowing where that solenoid should be positioned, but that 150 ohms was basically right when I got the shift flaring to stop, so I personally would run it that way until I got a good computer to test out, or every time it came time to shift from 2nd to 3rd just let of the accelerator until it shifted then continue with your acceleration process.

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Monday, June 11th, 2012 AT 7:33 PM
  • Tiny
  • Rivermikerat
  • MEMBER

I'd seriously be surprised if anyone at a dealership or transmission specialty repair shop would be able to give a 100% accurate answer to the question of what other problems this "work-around" may cause in the long run. As far as electrical theory is concerned, I don't see any issues. It's when you get into the lines of programming code, hydraulics, etc where I get lost.

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Thursday, June 14th, 2012 AT 9:51 PM
  • Tiny
  • Thiang
  • MEMBER

Ihbigred, check out this site it might help.
http://www.hondasuv.com/members/showthread.php?t=57575

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Friday, July 20th, 2012 AT 1:43 AM
  • Tiny
  • Rivermikerat
  • MEMBER

Wow. This thread is STILL Active after all these months. Amazing.

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Friday, July 20th, 2012 AT 1:46 AM
  • Tiny
  • Ihbigred
  • MEMBER

Thiang,
I read over the thread you posted and I never checked the TPS for resistances that were out of wack. Not going to rule that out, but why would a car that I worked on with a non-vtec shift flare, but once I changed the PCM to a vtec PCM the flare went away. I'm assuming that was not a TPS issue.

Rivermikerat,
Usually threads stay active that usually have no answers. Looks like it still has yet to be satisfied. Still want to hear from the other people who posted as to what they've done to improve their rides

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Friday, July 20th, 2012 AT 12:06 PM
  • Tiny
  • Rivermikerat
  • MEMBER

I agree, ihbigred. I just figured that after this long, the issue would have been resolved. I also remember, vaguely, without reading through all of the latter posts, that you acquired another vehicle and somewhat gave up on this issue.

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Friday, July 20th, 2012 AT 3:47 PM
  • Tiny
  • Ihbigred
  • MEMBER

Yes, I actually sold the problem vehicle. But it was to someone I know so I have access to it if I think of another solution. I may try the TPS out next time I see the car. But, if I come across another one, I'm going to keep chasing it.

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Friday, July 20th, 2012 AT 4:26 PM
  • Tiny
  • Rivermikerat
  • MEMBER

Ok. I was hoping I was right. I'd hate to think my memory was that bad. Hope you finally figure it out. I'm at a loss now.

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Friday, July 20th, 2012 AT 4:59 PM
  • Tiny
  • Rberq
  • MEMBER

I had the same exact problem with my 98 Civic EX 4-door. If you are a purist you won't like my answer, but here's what fixed it. The TPS went bad, so I replaced it with an aftermarket (Dorman). Since the new TPS had bolts that could be loosened, unlike the factory TPS, there is a small range of adjustment on the new TPS. I rotated it slightly so it appears to the computer that the throttle is open slightly more than it really is. That resolved 99 percent of the flaring. It took me several tries to get the adjustment right, and shifts are often at higher RPMs than before, but overall I am much happier!

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Monday, September 10th, 2012 AT 6:49 PM

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