Passenger side tire noise/shake

Jack the front of the car up and run it in gear, then watch that wheel. You may have to block the left wheel from rotating. Be careful that what you use is wedged tightly so it doesn't come shooting out. Watch the right wheel to see if it's spinning true or wobbling side-to-side. If it's wobbling, have that one rechecked on a tire balancer, not for balance, but for being bent. They forget to look for that when new tires are installed because a protective hood comes down over the tire and they can't easily see it spin.

If there's no wobbling, suspect the inner cv joint. They will bind on worn spots when under load. When the rollers can't move freely to change length and angle as the shaft rotates, it will push on the spindle which pushes on the steering linkage. The load doesn't exist when coasting so the binding doesn't occur then.

If you see the wheel wobble on the car but not on the tire balancer, suspect a bent hub or debris stuck between the wheel and brake rotor. The bent hub can be hard to see. A dial indicator set up next to it will show the amount of "lateral runout". That is sideways movement that occurs as it rotates. It will be magnified by the wheel. A severely warped brake rotor can cause the same sensation. As long as it doesn't have thickness variation around it, you might not feel that warpage in the brake pedal.

That tire wear might or might not be related but it is not normal. First you have to look at the other tire to see if it has the same wear. If it does, the "total toe" is misadjusted. That means the fronts of the two tires are closer together than the rears and they are scrubbing going down the road. That makes the leading edge wear down. To exaggerate it for clarity, imagine the right front tire turned to the left, ... More, and more, until it is at 90 degrees to the car. It can't really turn that far, but now it's easy to visualize that the outside edge is toward the front of the car, and is the "leading edge". Now compare that to pencil eraser. Hold the pencil straight up with the eraser end down and on the table. Put a little downward pressure on the eraser, then drag the pencil sideways across the table. You'll see the leading edge scrub off and make eraser crumbs, but the trailing edge lifts off the table and no wear takes place. That's what's happening to your tires when total toe is not adjusted to specifications.

The additional clue to a toe problem is that high and low area occurs on each block of rubber tread. Each block will have a high, unworn side and a low, worn side. As you rub your hand over them one way your fingers will move smoothly even though you'll feel the unevenness, but if you rub your hand the other way, your fingers will catch on the raised spots. It's similar to running your fingers both ways along the teeth of a round saw blade. Smooth one way, sharp the other way.

If that wear is only taking place on the one tire, that's a lot easier to describe. "Camber" is a different alignment angle that has to do with the inward or outward tilt of the wheel as viewed from in front or back of the car. If the right tire has too much positive camber, it is leaning out on top. That will cause it to run on the outer edge which will wear faster. Some clues are that only affects that one tire, and camber makes a tire want to roll in the direction it's leaning so your right tire wants to pull the car to the right. You will notice that as the car going to the right when you let go of the steering wheel. Camber wear also leaves that worn part of the tire smooth, not with raised and low areas on each block of tread.

Taking the shaking and tire wear together, a sloppy wheel bearing comes to mind although if bad enough, that will usually cause the wheel to tilt in on top, not out. But being front-wheel-drive, that would also cause that tire to turn left under acceleration. That could account for the outer tire wear, and being sloppy, the entire hub and wheel would shake back and forth.

A tire and alignment specialist should have no problem finding the cause when there are so many clues to look at. Have the steering and suspension systems inspected by a different shop if the first one can't figure it out.

An alignment won't fix that problem. It might be required DUE to replacing a part that does fix the problem. The second shop is the plan if the first one gives up. Up to now, they might have just replaced worn parts they found during a previous inspection. Once that is done and the problem is still there, that's when they start to dig a little deeper and look for less common things. Normally I would expect them to observe the symptoms on a test drive and know they haven't solved the problem but maybe the symptoms didn't show up on their test drive. Give them a second chance to look deeper. If they can't identify the cause, then look for a tire and alignment specialist and have the car inspected there.

Recheck that wheel like before but with your hands at the 6 and 12 positions. The way you did it will show up looseness in the wheel bearing and tie rod ends if you use light force back and forth. If they all feel tight, doing the same thing with heavy force will show up one type of wear on a lower ball joint. With your hands at 6 and 12, only a sloppy wheel bearing will cause looseness.

You won't feel the wheel bearing that way with the tire on the ground, but if you tug in and out on the top of the tire, a badly worn strut will show up. The shaft will wobble back and forth where it comes out of the top of the body. That can let the wheel wobble but it has to be pretty bad, and there's a clunking noise associated with that wear.

I can't think of what kind of tube you're feeling. If you could post a photo of it I might be able to identify it.

It seems more likely you have brake noise from a rust spot on the rotor. You won't hear or feel anything wrong with the wheel bearing or cv joints by hand. Those noises only show up when driving. The rust spot on the rotor can make a ticking sound that can be felt in the car. If the engine was doing it you would hear it standing still.

Yup. That hose is the drain for the AC system. Humidity condenses on the cold evaporator in the dash and drips into a drain pan, then out that tube onto the ground.