Why does my car start/stall unless I am giving it gas after I changed my manifold?

You should forget the pinched wire theory as it is not the issue. Without us seeing what you did, it is a crap shoot for us to diag. Please listen to these guys as they are chock full of info and we always start at basics. I would start all over again, read the posts and follow our train of thought before going off on a tangent.

Roy

If 2 other people tell you that something is possible and you don't buy it. So what difference does it make if we tell you it is too? Would you accept by majority?

You don't even want to understand the basics of diagnostics so how is it possible for us to help you?

What we want to do is to get to the bottom of the prroblem and help you solve it but you must cooperate with us and give us as much information as possible. We ask questions and tell you to do specific things so that we can understand what could be the cause and rectify the problem.

If you want a staright answer as to yes otr no, ok here it is.

It is possible for a wire to be pinched. Is that what you want?

Nobody is treating you like an idiot-you just best listen and when you do, you learn like I do in here every single day dealing with attitudes and complicated car repair issues for 6yrs-You get my drift-Remember you're up against high tech professionals here-we're not backyards or partschangers we have credentials to substantiate it-Get with the program or go somewhere else and seek help-BTW there others way ahead of you that needs help too- be patient we'll get to you as time permits

Backtrack-go back and reopen the intake manifold to me it was nothing wrong with it in the very beginning-now you have created other problems- start here and keep us posted-

Let us start with the basics. I am only interested in information that would help us solve this problem.

Since there are a few problems, which are probably related to a certain extent, we have to start with something from among them.

For the low idling, check for vacuum leakage.
What was the reason for replacing the manifold?
Is the replacment manifold of the same type as previous?
Was the trrottle body rerplaced together with the maifold or was the original part reused? Was gasket replaced with the correct type and installed correctly?

Btw, which engine do you have?

Happy Father's day to all :)

No, the throttle body need not be replaced. But since it was out, you should have cleaned. While working on it, transferring it to the intake manifold, you could have dislodged some dirt which in turn would result in air restriction and this would cause idling problem.

Get a can of carb spray and open the throttle plate. Spray into the barrel and allow to soak for a while. If there are a lot of gumb, use a toothbrush to brush it clean.

Try starting to see if there are any changes. It might take some cranking time as the carb cleaner would cause some sort of flooding, too rich for combustion.

Have you checked for trouble codes?

Throttle body is the part that the accelerator cable is attached to. The barrel has a plate that closes fully when engine is idling but it would still allow a minimal amount of air past it. When the barrel gets dirty, this minimal amount of air is reduced and this would result in lower than expected idling.

It need not be removed for cleaning as carb cleaner works fine but if it can be removed, that would be ideal.

The IAC motor is mounted on top of the throttle body. It allows air to pass through and amount varies according to engine temperature and is computer controlled. Carb cleaner into the air passage would help to clean it. You must not submerge the throttle body and IAC while cleaning as it can damage the TPS and IAC motor.

What were the trouble codes you have and after replacement of the components concerned, are they still there?

What ever information that you have, you should provide it for me so that I can understand the problem better.

The carb cleaner can also be used to test for vacuum leakages

Codes DO NOT tell you to change sensors. They only identify a faulty circuit. If the fault code keeps coming back even after you have replace the component, then you need to be performing testings on the wiring circuit or the control unit.

You keep going back to the wiring issue but I am not interested in what people thinks and possibilities. What I want is information that would make me understand what could be wrong and provide a solution. I sent out test for you, did you do them?

Are you familiar with electrical testing procedures and methods?

Those things quit immediately after the repairs indicates something was not correctly installed or had been missed out and it could possibly be a pinched wire but pinched wires would blow out fuses and you said the fuses are good. They do not make sense.

Remember something, we are working blind here trying to help based on info that you are giving us. We all know what we are doing but without seeing the vehicle, we cannot for certain tell you much about what you did. The odds of those sensors failing all at once is not likley at all.

All the info from us guys is right on but your lack of understanding has it at a standstill. You are right to get a shop to look at it as they have it in front of them and can determine the failure for you.
Wish I was more help but I bet it is something simple here but a tech will have to look at it and find the issue.
Roy

If wires had not been plugged in correctly they would not work. The fans are related to the temperature gauge as the coolant sensors are also the catalyst for them. You need to start with one and continue from there. Solving one problem might get everything else working.

It is in the wiring but I need you to perform test to understand what is missing or wrong and you keep questioning my queries.

If you want us to help you solve the problem, you need to cooperate as Roy mentioned, we are working blind.

If you want possibilities, it can take a whole day to write all of them, that is the reason I don't want to go into them because it is not going to solve the problem.

If 2 ASE certified technicians are not able to come up with anything, what makes you think the shop you are sendding it to can help you?

These guys had a look and gave their opinions and not diagnostic results without even trying to do anything but you are holding them to be true. We are trying our best to find out the cause of the problem and yet you keep avoiding what we are requesting. If you are doubting our ability to help you then you are at the wrong place.

I never like to keep anything hanging and always try to get to the bottom of the problem until I come to a conclusion, which is near if you continue this way.

If there is anything that you do not understand you must ask and let us know. There is no point for us to tell you what to do and you keeping quiet. That is the cause of all this communiction problem.

We don't have the vehicle here so you are the one responsible for getting us the necessary information to carry on. We can't be dwelling on possibiloities without checking through them.

Pinched wires do not necessarily blow fuses but it would cause something to work wrong as there would be shorting and gauges etc would go out of range.

The other thing that can cause this is disconnected components, wire harnesses, broken wires and wrongly plugged in connectors.

You are confused because you are not listening. Forget everything that has occurred and we start all over from here.

I told you to test the temperature gauge which is a simple job. Find the sending unit wire and ground it. Turn ignition on and if gauge goes to max, the wiring for this circuit.

That is the first test you need to do and what we would start with.