Yup. 12 volts for one second at key-on, and 12 volts again during cranking.
Have you checked for stored diagnostic fault codes? Cycle the ignition switch 3 times from "off" to "run" within 5 seconds, then, on older cars you have to count the flashes of the Check Engine light. I think by '97 the codes are displayed in the digital odometer display. There should be a code if the Engine Computer detected the missing pulses from the cam or crank sensor.
Be aware too that a spacer is needed to set the air gap of the crankshaft position sensor. Original sensors use a thick paper spacer stuck to the end, then you push the sensor in as far as it will go. The spacer will slide off when the engine is started. You can get new ones from the dealer's parts department.
Some aftermarket sensors have a thin plastic rib molded on the end to set the gap. That rib partially wears away over time. To remove and reinstall that type of sensor you are supposed to cut the remaining rib off, then use the paper spacer.
In some cases, failure to use a spacer could cause the sensor to break from being hit by the ring on the torque converter.
Monday, January 3rd, 2011 AT 7:14 AM