Service engine light and o/d off light blinking

Tiny
RELDVS
  • 1996 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 101,000 MILES

1996 Ford Taurus Wagon. Service engine light on. Blinking O/D off light. Replaced 3 solenoids in transmission. Was led to believe that was it. Got it back and not even half way down the road the service engine light comes on again. After taking it up to higher speeds I discover that it doesn't engage 4th gear quite right and 5th gear will not engage at all.
My question is this. First, how many solenoids are in the transmission?
would that bulletin you spoke of in another post apply to this situation? Here is that info I speak of.
There may be a technical service bulletin for the code P0760. Performace Shift solenoid C stuck closed. I have a vehicle with this code and I checked the solenoids and all 3 are fine. The bulletin states that the retainer clip for the forward clutch control valve in the valve body might be broken, causing the trans not to be able to shift into overdrive and setting the shift solenoid C stuck closed code. You will need a revised clip and check to see if the valve body is damaged. The ford part number is F8DZ-7F194-AA.
i don't want my mechanic to try to short change me by saying I need a new transmission when it could be something as simple as what you described.
I asked them to replace any parts while it is apart so I could get the check engine light off and the O/D light to stop blinking.
They claim it is normal for the O/D light to blink. I think its b.S. And they are trying to fool me cuz they really don't know why. I will try to get them to give me all the codes from the scanner so I can give them to you but I have a sneaky suspicion it is either what you said or maybe a bad computer? Problem is, where I live you have to pass smog checks and you cant do that with a service engine light on and ive already paid them 845 dollars to replace all the solenoids and they handed me back 3 and that that was it.I have read online that there are 5. Can you please help shed some light on this to start with. I cannot afford to be drained of my money as I was just in a head on collision and this was supposed to be my "new" car after my accident (which was not my fault btw).I feel like they are gonna try to take the easy way out and I can't afford to keep dumping money into this repair when they are the ones who can't seem to fix things right. Any help on this would be great, thanks in advance.

dj

Do you
have the same problem?
Yes
No
Saturday, November 13th, 2010 AT 8:40 AM

26 Replies

Tiny
FIXITMR
  • MEMBER

Trans problems with fords are nightmares! If it was me I would get a different car!

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
-1
Saturday, November 13th, 2010 AT 9:07 AM
Tiny
RELDVS
  • MEMBER

I hope I did not have to pay 5 bux for that answer cuz its too late for that. This IS the car I just bought and this IS the car I HAVE to repair. I have sunk too much money and the car is in excellent condition and running except for the problem I greatly detailed above. Again, I will update with codes on Monday but I feel like my donation should not have to go to such an unhelpful answer. Thanks anyway for the reply but I need more.

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, November 13th, 2010 AT 10:18 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
  • 42,001 POSTS

Hi reldvs,

Let me know the trouble codes, engine type and transmission model and I will see what I can come up with.

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, November 13th, 2010 AT 12:44 PM
Tiny
RELDVS
  • MEMBER

Ok, I went and got the "autozone" read code, who btw was also who I got the code read by BEFORE

CODE P0761 V6 with 3.0L trans type I have to wait till monday to get but will.

But get this. SAME code before he replaced ALL the solenoids. SAME code after I spent 845 on it to be fixed.

This is why I refer back to the tech bulletin about the "broken retainer clips" I referenced in my original post.

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, November 13th, 2010 AT 8:52 PM
Tiny
RELDVS
  • MEMBER

I FOUND THIS ON A TAURUS OWNERS FORUM AFTER HOURS AND HOURS OF SEARCHING. FOR FREE.

There's a TSB for that exact problem TSB 98-10-7 - my sister had to have it done on her car.

"TSB 98-10-7 TRANSAXLE - AX4N - NO 4TH GEAR AND DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (DTCS) P0734 AND/OR P0761 FOR 1996-98 TAURUS/SABLE AND 1995-98 CONTINENTAL, AND DTC 648 FOR 1994-95 TAURUS/SABLE TRANSAXLE - AX4N - RETAINING CLIP FOR FORWARD CLUTCH CONTROL VALVE - SERVICE TIP

Publication Date: MAY 26, 1998

FORD: 1994-1998 TAURUS
LINCOLN-MERCURY: 1994-1998 SABLE
1995-1998 CONTINENTAL

ISSUE:
No 4th gear operation (no 3-4 shift) and Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P0734 and/or P0761 or 648 may occur on some vehicles. This may be caused by a broken retaining clip in the valve body that secures the forward clutch control valve and spring in place.

ACTION:
Replace broken forward clutch control valve retaining clip with revised forward clutch control valve retaining clip. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

Inspect for a broken retaining clip by removing the valve body and then the valve body separator plate. Inspect the forward clutch control valve, spring, retaining clip, and valve body casting for damage (Figure 1).

Figure 1 - Article 98-10-7

If the clip is broken and the forward clutch control valve and/or valve body casting is damaged, replace the main control. The retaining clip has just been revised to prevent the chance of breakage. The revised Retaining Clip (F8DZ-7F194-AA) has circular cutouts on the side of the clip in place of the square cutouts on the previous design level clip (Figure 2).

Figure 2 - Article 98-10-7

Inspect the new main control (if required) before installing it and replace this retaining clip for the forward clutch control valve and spring if it's not the new design (Figure 2).
Any time service is required on any AX4N transaxle main control, inspect the retaining clip for the forward clutch control valve to be sure it is the latest design level, and replace the retaining clip if it is not. The revised clip is larger and will remain centered in the valve body casting groove.

PART NUMBER PART NAME
F8DZ-7F194-AA Forward Clutch Control Valve Retaining Clip"

What do you think now? I am getting the exact same problem? This is why I am pushing this idea so much. Others I have found have had the same issue with the same symptoms.

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, November 13th, 2010 AT 9:48 PM
Tiny
RELDVS
  • MEMBER

Im still having the SAME problems and ive seen no new replies. Is there no "EXPERTS" on here? Update, I am looking at replacing the PRNDL switch as this is what I was led to believe is the next thing on the ever growing list of things to fix.I am beginning to believe the fixitmr had it right and I should have never gotten a FORD. But it is too late, I need answers that will FIX my problems. Come on guys.I paid 5 bux and I have answered more of my questions than anyone else. Where are my PROS at?

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, November 20th, 2010 AT 2:11 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
  • 42,001 POSTS

Sorry for the delay in responding. The site has just been through an upgrade and many things are not working correctly so I was not notified of your response till today.

There are 2 different transmisison type for Taurus and you have not provided me with the model type yet.

Have you performed the checks according to the TSB?

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, November 20th, 2010 AT 12:36 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
  • 42,001 POSTS

Sorry for missing this out.

The bulletin is for AX4N so can you confirm if your transmission is this model?

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, November 20th, 2010 AT 12:39 PM
Tiny
RELDVS
  • MEMBER

Yes my model trans is the AX4N they say that its not the clip but I can't get them to try it honestly. They are claiming its the PRNDL switch and that those clips if broken would not allow me to shift at all. As it is now. My car still does the SAME thing and I am waiting on this switch to get in.
If you require any additional info, just ask me. Ill be happy to get what ever I can to help.

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, November 20th, 2010 AT 6:40 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
  • 42,001 POSTS

The bulletin specifically indicates it would not upshift to 4th, meaning 1, 2 or 3 would work. The clip would depend on which valve is faulty.

Seems the guys who did the job is not willing to go all the way and it would be a good idea to get a second opinion.

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, November 20th, 2010 AT 7:18 PM
Tiny
RELDVS
  • MEMBER

I let the guy talk me into the PRNDL switch. After that, im walking. Yes it shifts fine up to 3rd (smooth 1, 2, 3). No 4th or overdrive
Service engine lite o/d off blinking. Seems to be showing codes
P0761-- (isn't that a code for the very shift solenoid they just replaced? WTF)
p0734
p1705
and codes for EPC and TCC sole stuck or failure

He claims when car is shifting from 3rd to try 4th that it is telling it something else. He also said that a few other things he tested pointed to this PRNDL switch. Is there any possible way that this could indeed be the faulty culprit? He says so but he seems like a crook and after this repair (which I figure will not fix a thing) im done with him. After that, ill get the codes read again and see what comes up. This has to be one of the most annoying situations to be in.

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, November 20th, 2010 AT 9:45 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
  • 42,001 POSTS

The OD light blinking indicates an error has occurred and trouble codes have been stored in the PCM. We should b going after the codes to rectify the problem and not guessing what could be the problem. If the guy says the OD light blinking is normal, he knows nothing about trouble codes and is only guessing what to do.

A different opinion would be a better course to eliminate time and money wastage.

Regarding P0761, you should follow the repairs instruction as per TSB. I have uploaded the diagram as indicated in TSB.

P0741 = No 4th gear.

TRANSMISSION DRIVE CYCLE TEST
NOTE:
The transmission drive cycle test must be followed exactly. Malfunctions have to occur 4 times consecutively for codes P0731, P0732, P0733 and P0734 to be set and 5 times consecutively for continuous codes P0741 and P1741.

Test Procedure

1. Record and then erase Quick Test codes. Warm engine to normal operating temperature. Ensure transmission fluid level is correct. Shift transmission to overdrive (OD).

2. Accelerate from stop to 50 MPH. Hold speed for at least 15 seconds. While maintaining speed with transaxle in 4th gear, lightly depress brake pedal and release. Maintain speed for additional 5 seconds. Bring vehicle to stop for at least 20 seconds. Repeat steps 1 and 2 at least 5 times. Perform Quick Test and record continuous codes.

Pinpoint Test A1 is for diagnosing P0734. Follow whichever step applicable.

PINPOINT TEST A - SHIFT SOLENOID ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT
1) AX4N Electronic Diagnostics. Ensure transaxle harness connector is in acceptable condition. Repair as necessary. Ensure transaxle harness connector is fully seated. Connect NGS tester or equivalent to DLC. Perform KOEO test until Continuous Memory DTCs have been displayed. See QUICK TEST. Enter output test mode. See ADDITIONAL SYSTEM FUNCTIONS. Depress throttle to WOT and release. If vehicle enters output state, go to next step. If vehicle will not enter output state, see appropriate G - TESTS W/ CODES article in the ENGINE PERFORMANCE section:

For 3.0L models, see TESTS W/CODES - 3.0L.
For 3.4L SHO models, see TESTS W/CODES - 3.4L SHO.
For Continental Vehicles see TESTS W/CODES.

2) Check Electrical Signal Operation. Disconnect transaxle harness connector. Inspect condition of connector and repair as needed. Using DVOM (20-volt scale), connect positive lead to transaxle harness connector VPWR terminal. See Fig. 8. Connect negative lead to suspect solenoid circuit. Depress and release throttle to cycle solenoid output. If voltage changes at least.5 volts, go to step 5. If voltage is unaffected, go to next step.

3) Check Continuity Of Solenoid Signal & VPWR Harness Circuits. Ensure ignition is off. Disconnect PCM 104-pin connector, and inspect it for damaged pins, corrosion and loose wires. Repair as necessary. Install breakout box, leaving PCM disconnected. Measure and record resistance between breakout box test pin No. 1, 27 or 53 and appropriate transaxle harness connector solenoid signal terminal. See Fig. 8. Measure and record resistance between test pins No. 71 and 97 and transaxle harness connector terminals for each solenoid. If any resistance is greater than 5 ohms, repair open circuit. Connect all components. Disconnect breakout box and repeat QUICK TEST. If each resistance is 5 ohms or less, go to next step.

4) Check Solenoid Harness For Shorts To Power & Ground. Measure and record resistance between breakout box test pins No. 1, 27 or 53 and test pins No. 71 and 97. Measure and record resistance between chassis ground and test pin No. 1, 27 or 53 and between chassis ground and test pins No. 24, 51, 76, 77, 91 and 103. If any resistance is less than 10 k/ohms, repair short circuit. Connect all components. Disconnect breakout box and repeat QUICK TEST. If each resistance is 10 k/ohms or more, go to next step.

5) Solenoid Functional Test. Connect transmission tester. See Fig. 9. Perform solenoid voltage test. See tester instructions. If solenoid activates (Green LED on), go to next step. If solenoid does not activate Green LED, go to step 7.

6) Transaxle Drive Test. Connect PCM 104-pin connector. Perform tester drive test. See tester instructions. If vehicle upshifts when operated with tester, replace PCM. Connect all components. Disconnect breakout box and repeat QUICK TEST. If vehicle does not upshift when operated by tester, go to next step.

7) Check Resistance Of Solenoid. Set tester BENCH/DRIVE switch to BENCH mode. Set GEAR SELECT switch to OHMS CHECK. Connect ohmmeter negative lead to SS1 jack and positive lead to VPWR jack on tester. Measure and record resistance. Connect ohmmeter negative lead to SS2 jack and positive lead to VPWR jack on tester. Measure and record resistance. Connect ohmmeter negative lead to SS3 jack and positive lead to VPWR jack on tester. Measure and record resistance. Resistance for all solenoids should be 15-25 ohms. If resistance is within specification for all solenoids, go to next step. If resistance is not within specification for any solenoid, go to step 9.

8) Check Solenoid For Short To Ground. Check continuity between BAT(-) terminal and between SS1, SS2 and SS3. Check continuity between BAT(-) terminal and VPWR terminal. If continuity exists for any circuit, go to next step. If continuity does not exist, see TROUBLE SHOOTING in
AUTO TRANS OVERHAUL - FORD AX4N TRANSAXLE article.

9) AX4N Internal Electronic Diagnostics. Drain transaxle fluid. See TRANSMISSION SERVICING section. Remove transaxle side cover. See OIL PUMP & VALVE BODY ASSEMBLY under ON-VEHICLE SERVICE in AUTO TRANS OVERHAUL - FORD AX4N TRANSAXLE article. Inspect all internal harness connectors. Ensure all connectors are fully connected and not damaged. Repair as needed. If all connectors are okay, go to next step. Install all components in reverse order of disassembly. Fill transaxle with fluid. Erase all DTCs. Repeat QUICK TEST.

10) Check Internal Harness Continuity. Disconnect internal harness from solenoid assemblies. To test SS1, connect positive lead of ohmmeter to tester SS-1 jack and negative lead to SS1 connector Orange wire. Measure and record resistance. To test SS2, connect positive lead of ohmmeter to tester SS-2 jack and negative lead to SS2 connector Pink wire. Measure and record resistance. To test SS3, connect positive lead of ohmmeter to tester SS-3 jack and negative lead to SS3 connector Yellow wire. Measure and record resistance. To test SS1, SS2 and SS3 VPWR circuits, connect positive lead of ohmmeter to corresponding VPWR tester terminal. Connect negative lead to selected solenoid connector red wire. Measure and record resistance. If all resistances measured are 5 ohms or less, go to next step. If any resistance measured is more than 5 ohms, replace internal harness. Go to step 12.

11) Check Internal Harness For Shorts To Ground. Using transmission tester, check continuity between each solenoid lead and BAT(-) terminal of tester. If continuity does not exist in any circuit, go to next step. If continuity exists in any circuit, replace internal harness and go to next step.

12) Check Resistance Of Solenoid. Using ohmmeter, check resistance between terminals of each solenoid. Resistance should be 15-25 ohms. If resistance is within specification, go to next step. If resistance measured for any solenoid is not within specification, replace suspect solenoid. Install all components in reverse order of disassembly. Fill transaxle with fluid. Erase all DTCs. Repeat QUICK TEST.

13) Check Solenoid For Short To Ground. Using an ohmmeter, check continuity between each solenoid terminal and ground. If continuity exists, replace faulty shift solenoid. If continuity does not exist, go to TROUBLE SHOOTING in the AUTO TRANS OVERHAUL - FORD AX4N TRANSAXLE
article. Install all components in reverse order of disassembly. Fill transaxle with fluid. Erase all DTCs. Repeat QUICK TEST.

P1705 = Transmission not in park. If the PRDNL switch was replaced, it has not been correctly adjusted or the switch is bad.

PINPOINT TEST D - TRANSMISSION RANGE (TR) SENSOR
1) AX4N Electronic Diagnostics. Disconnect the TR connector, and inspect it for damaged pins, corrosion and loose wires. Repair as necessary. Reconnect the TR connector. Make sure the TR sensor is correctly adjusted. Refer to the AUTO TRANS OVERHAUL - FORD AX4N TRANSAXLE article. If sensor requires adjustment, clear DTCs after
adjustment. Repeat QUICK TEST. If sensor is correctly adjusted, go to next step.

2) Check Electrical Signal Operation. Ensure ignition is off. Disconnect TR harness connector. Turn ignition on. Measure voltage between harness connector Light Blue/Yellow wire terminal and Gray/Red wire terminal. If voltage is 4.75-5.25 volts, go to step 5). If voltage is not within specification, go to next step.

3) Check Continuity Of TR Sensor Harness Circuits. Turn ignition off. Disconnect PCM 104-pin connector, and inspect it for damaged pins, corrosion and loose wires. Repair as necessary. Install breakout box, leaving PCM disconnected. Measure and record resistance between breakout box test pin terminal No. 91 and TR harness connector Gray/Red wire terminal. Measure and record resistance between breakout box test pin terminal No. 64 and TR harness connector Light Blue/Yellow terminal. If each resistance is less than 5 ohms, go to next step. If any resistance is more than 5 ohms, repair open circuit. Remove breakout box and connect all components. Erase all DTCs. Repeat
QUICK TEST.

4) Check TR Circuit For Shorts To Power & Ground. Measure resistance between breakout box test pin No. 64 and test pins No. 24, 51, 71, 76, 77, 91, 97 and 103. Measure resistance between breakout box test pin No. 64 and ground. If each measurement is more than 10 k/ohms, go to next step. If any measurement is less than 10 k/ohms, repair short circuit. Remove breakout box and connect all components. Erase all DTCs. Repeat QUICK TEST.

5) Check TR Sensor Resistance. Install TR overlay on transmission tester. See Fig. 9. Connect tester to TR sensor. Check continuity and resistances in all positions between Gray/Red wire and Light Blue/Yellow wire. See TR SPECIFICATIONS table. If TR sensor does not operate within specification, replace sensor. Connect all components. Erase all DTCs. Repeat QUICK TEST. If sensor operates within specification, replace PCM. Connect all components. Erase all DTCs. Repeat QUICK TEST.

6) Check Park/Neutral Circuits Of TR Sensor. Using transmission tester instructions, follow procedures and test Park/Neutral circuits in all gear positions. Ensure tester light status is correct. Check resistance between Brown/Pink wire and Tan/Red wire on Taurus (4V) models and White/Pink wire and Red/Light Blue wire on all other models. In Park and Neutral positions resistance should be less than 5 ohms. In all other gear positions resistance should be more than 10 k/ohms. If light status and all resistance specifications are correct, go to next step. If light status or any measurement is not within specification, replace TR sensor and adjust. Connect all components. Erase all DTCs. Repeat QUICK TEST.

7) Check Reverse/Backup Light Circuits Of TR Sensor. Using transmission tester instructions, follow procedures and test reverse/backup circuits in all gear positions. Ensure tester light status is correct. Check resistance between Black/Pink wire and Orange wire on Taurus (4V) models and Black/Pink wire and Pink/Orange wire on all other models. In Reverse position resistance should be less than 5 ohms. In all other gear positions resistance should be more than 10K ohms. If light status and all resistance specifications are correct. If light status or any measurement is not within specification, replace TR sensor and adjust. Connect all components. Erase all DTCs. Repeat QUICK TEST.

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, November 21st, 2010 AT 6:59 AM
Tiny
RELDVS
  • MEMBER

Wow! Now that was informative. Thank you very much. I will get this printed out tomorrow and try to get someone new to try these once I have this PRNDL switch installed. I already paid for it so I might as well have it put in. Then after that, I am trying a new shop and now im also armed with new knowledge in my fight to fix this nightmare once and for all. Thank you again.

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, November 22nd, 2010 AT 6:13 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
  • 42,001 POSTS

You're welcome and hope the information is able to help you get the problem solved.

Keep updated of the outcome.

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, November 22nd, 2010 AT 8:47 AM
Tiny
RELDVS
  • MEMBER

I just spoke with the shop. They said the part is ready to be installed tomorrow. I am just waiting for him to tell me what time to come in. I told him I would be waiting this time even if it took hours. You could almost hear the fear in his voice. Lmao. Anyways, tomorrow should have a new PRNDL sensor installed and properly adjusted and we will see what, if any change that brings. Ttyl

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, November 22nd, 2010 AT 5:33 PM
Tiny
RELDVS
  • MEMBER

Just got pushed back on my repair. Again. Sun or mon now. :( This is sooooo annoying

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, November 24th, 2010 AT 12:28 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
  • 42,001 POSTS

They must be wetting their pants and trying to avoid you, lol.

Good luck.

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, November 24th, 2010 AT 1:20 PM
Tiny
RELDVS
  • MEMBER

Took car in today, waited. And waited. Eventually owner emerged with a part in his hand. Turns out the xperts got the wrong part. Apparently there are two PRNDL sensors one with 8 pin(wrong one which they got) and the one with 11pin that I need. Long story short, they put my old one back in and then inform me that I have to put my car into N now to start it! Claiming that removing the part further damaged it and now it wont even work the same as before I came in today. So now I have to put my car in Neutral to start it and im no closer to anything else but waiting on them to get the part. Btw. The NEW part they tried to install. I check it out prior to install. Was NOT new, did not look it and had writing on side of box which confirmed my suspicions. I think they just slapped the old sensor in and never recalibrated it to get me out of the shop as they were closing the doors when I was still waiting to get my car. All I know is this is HELL and I wish it would end.

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, November 29th, 2010 AT 12:29 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
  • 42,001 POSTS

You are correct about them not calibrating the switch resulting in P not able to crank engine. Too bad you have to put up with such inconveniences.

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Please consider a donation if we helped you
Monday, November 29th, 2010 AT 12:06 PM
Tiny
RELDVS
  • MEMBER

Well Mon came and went and they never called about that part. I pretty much figured that would happen. I think at this point we cut them out of the equation. I am considering ordering the part from the dealer direct and just paying them to install and adjust it correctly. Im sure it will cost much more but at this point, im already paying out the butt and I can't even get them to fix it.I think that I can get better results at the dealer at this point. Then maybe after they get that straightened out I can figure out what the REAL problem is and was from the start. Wadda u think?

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, November 30th, 2010 AT 7:34 AM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Related Check Engine Soon Light Questions

Recommended articles