Engine won't start and run?

Tiny
REBABECCA
  • MEMBER
  • 1996 FORD EXPLORER
  • 290,000 MILES
I am having issues with my explorer. Once the weather starts getting warmer say over 75 degrees it will not start. I can usually go out first thing in the morning and it will start and drive it without issues. But once I turn it off I have to cross my fingers that it will start again. What I should say is that it will try to start then it coughs and dies and then I have to wait sometimes as long as 2-3 hours before it will start again. I was told it sounded like a fuel pump issue so I replaced it in August and didn't have any issues again until the end of April so I once again replaced the fuel pump, but that didn't solve the issue. So the next suggestion was replacing the fuel relay which I have done twice and again I'm having the same issue. Another suggestion was to replace all the relays in the box which I have done and I'm still having the issue. I'm hoping you can help. PLEASE. Rebabecca
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Wednesday, June 5th, 2013 AT 5:00 PM

51 Replies

Tiny
SINBAD271
  • MECHANIC
  • 169 POSTS
Have you had the vehicle checked for any engine codes, is the check engine light on. Before you have another fuel pump replace , have some one actually check the fuel pressure . It seems you may have a possible crank sensor issue but I can't tell for sure because i am unable to verify the concern. Have the vehicle checked for code . It seems like you've waisted a lot of time and money replacing thing that that are way out of the norm. Its hard to diagnose intermittent issues . I could be a bad wire that seperates when it gets hot. This issue may take time and someone very skillful with electrical and electronics see if you have any code I'm the memory program or pending program. Than have the actual fuel pressure checked while it won't start if fuel pressure is good fuel pump is good. Then have them check for injector pulse , if there is no pulse you may have a bad crank sensor. I have seen then cause this type of issue . But testing has to be done while symptom accures. When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Wednesday, June 5th, 2013 AT 7:10 PM
Tiny
JERRY RODRIGUEZ
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1996 FORD EXPLORER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 160,000 MILES
My 1996 ford explorer wont start after being driven for a while. Let it sit for a while then it starts right up
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 6:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,005 POSTS
Check the EEC relay under the hood. Switch it with another relay with the same part number to see if the vehicle shifts.

If that doesn't work, check for spark and fuel to the engine. One should be missing.
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 6:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RUDY
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1996 FORD EXPLORER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 186,000 MILES
1996 Ford Explorer, 186,000 mi, 4.0, 4x4. Runs good, sometimes after running for a while and I shut the car off it doesn't want to start. It cranks but it has a bad miss and if it does start the engine is like it's way out of time and then will die. If I wait about 30 min and try again it fires right up, no problem untill the next time. It doesn't do it all the time. Computer check when the check engine light comes on says the fuel is lean.
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 6:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,005 POSTS
Check fuel pump pressure when this happens. Also, switch the EEC relay in the power distribution box with a different relay with the same part number. One last thing, check the crank sensor if everything else checks good.
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 6:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BENANDREW
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1996 FORD EXPLORER
Electrical problem
1996 Ford Explorer V8 All Wheel Drive Automatic

engine cranks over but will not start.
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 6:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BLACKOP555
  • MECHANIC
  • 10,371 POSTS
First you need three things for the vehicle to start.

Fuel, ignition, compression.

Since I doubt its compression if the vehicle was running just fine untill you tryed to start it one day we can rule that out for now.

Next step is to check for fuel pressure and the presence of ignition at all cylinders.

You can do this by dumping some gas down the throttle body and starting it.
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 6:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ROBVILA
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 1996 FORD EXPLORER
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 110,000 MILES
About 3 weeks ago I've been having some problems with my truck. It first started on the freeway when I press the gas at highway spped, it would not accellerate, it sounded like a bogging sound. After a quick rolling ignition off and recrank, it worked. The problem got progressively worse. Finally a code came up saying that the coolent temp was too low for cold loop fuel control. Then I'd have problems starting - usually started alright, but immediately idled rough, until it died. 2 or 3 restarts were required before it would idle correctly - and even then, after a warm up, the car would still not want to accelerate when I pressed the gas. During this time - when in Netural, and tried to accelerate, the RPM's would only reach about 3500 or so before making the bogging sound. A few more restarts then all worked well. Now, the truck will not start at all. Fuel pump works, engine cranks strong, but no turn over. I am very fustrated. Anyone have any insite on this problem? Thanks in advance.
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 6:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PEAR69
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,482 POSTS
This problem can be caused by a few things. Judging from your description, I would look at the catalytic converters. Have them flow tested to see if they are clogged--sounds like they are. However a clogged cat converter is usually the result of raw--unburnt fuel getting into the exhaust system. Check the spark plugs for wear, and/or, too wide of a gap.
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 6:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ROBVILA
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Thanks for the info - I'll get it checked out and let you know.
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 6:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PEAR69
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,482 POSTS
Ok, let us know--good luck.
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 6:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ROBVILA
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
I guess I thought I heard my Fuel pump whirring when I turned the key to the start position, but now I can't - I confirmed this with my ear to the tank while my wife turned the key. Can I run a temp battery cable to the fuel pump to test if it works, also can I test the FP relay in the engine compartment? I believe it had 4 posts on the relay. Basically - how can I test if I need a new pump rather than a filter?
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 6:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TAC 96
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 1996 FORD EXPLORER
1996 Ford Explorer Four Wheel Drive Automatic 225689 miles

It has around 225689.I don't usually have a problem starting it in the mornings but I have gotten to work and needed to move it and it wouldn't start back up. I only drive it about 4 miles to work.3 of which are on the expressway.
My husband put a screwdriver to the spark plug and someone turn it over and said it wasn't getting any fire. I've had someone tell me they thought it was my control module. Well it's not sitting in the parking lot at work where I shut it off at 6:00am this morning. My husband tried to star it again a few minutes ago and it still wouldn't start and it is mow 12:35am.
It has never been this long before so I'm guessing whatever it is seems to have gone out completely. Hate to start replacing parts that don't need to be. Any suggestions on where to start and how to go about it? Help would be greatly appreciated! Thank You
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 6:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Hi TAC 96, Welcome to 2carpros and TY for the donation.

For what engine 4.0 or 5.0 liter?

No ignition spark: Inspect and test the following, coil packs, ignition control module and crankshaft position sensor
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 6:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TAC 96
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
You ask me what size engine. It is a 4.0 liter
My check engine light has been on for several years.I was told that was a sensor that went out and that it would hurt anything just pay closer attention to everything. Which I always do. Like ANY new or different type of noise. I could afford to replace it at the time and it was unfortunately kinda forgotten about.
Are those things you said to ckeck hard to get to? Do you know if auto parts store can test them or would they need to be taken to a Ford dealer?
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 6:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Try the crankshaft position sensor 1st which is located centered in lower front of engine compartment


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/12900_cps_48.jpg

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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 6:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TAC 96
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Thank you we will check it first. Will I need any special tools to remove the crankshaft sensor or the other two that you recommended checking. Do auto part stores test them for you or will I need to take it to a Ford dealer to have it tested? Sorry to be such a pain but I'm asking all these questions in case I'm left to take care of the problem on my own. Which if he has trouble getting it figured out and gets aggregated and fed up (which won't take much, he's already sick of dealing with it!) I will have to do this myself and I'm no machanic nor can I afford a machanic. These are the reason I ask so many detailed questions. I just want to be able to fix my explorer which I love. Thank you soooo very much for your time and definately for your patience with me. You are GREATLY appreciated!
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 6:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
It depends on the auto part store if they have the right testing equipment won't hurt to try. Use a digital multimeter to check/test the crankshaft position sensor voltage/resistances as for the coil and ICM you can bring it in

Testing the CPS:

https://www.2carpros.com/forum/posting.php?mode=reply&t=482055&sid=b3ada8c88fa2d9c62c4c5514168f6517
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 6:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MIAH2BZY
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
  • 1996 FORD EXPLORER
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 18,600 MILES
In the past year I have had to start putting the key into the start position and waiting to hear for the fuel pump to engage before turning the engine over. Recently, if I drive my car anywhere the engine feels hot and it won't start for about 2-3 hours after. I can drive it to someplace but have to wait a while before trying to start the car again.

I have drained the transmission fluid, do regular oil changed, fuel filter changed, oil filters, air filter, etc.
I have changed out the spark plugs and spark plug wires for new ones within the last year.
I replaced the crank shaft sensor.
I had the fuel line pressure checked and it was fine and the fuel pump was fine.
I put a new thermostat in a few days ago, check engine light went off, but it's still starting only when it wants to.
Checked the fuses and everything looked good there.
I had a small leak in my radiator and used "silver seal" in it to stop it up until I have the money for a new radiator.

Any advice on what I'm missing that could cause it to start only when it wants to?
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 6:35 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,005 POSTS
Have you checked the EEC relay?
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 6:35 PM (Merged)

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