98 fullsize Bronco

Tiny
ZACHARYWORRELL
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 FORD BRONCO
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 170,000 MILES
98 ford fullsize bronco 4x4. Seems to only work when it feels the need. Have changed filters drained and cleaned fuel line and gas tank and pump. Still not trust worthy. Likes to die at low rpms if it will start at all I also chanf the tfi/icm still no good. I need a permanent fix
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Thursday, June 23rd, 2011 AT 12:32 AM

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Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
http://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Next time it refuses to start don't wait for it to make up its mind-do below immediately to determine if its fuel or spark problem

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine atleast 3/16 away from ground-have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, Do you hear the fuel pump come On when you turn key on? If not check fuel pump fuse and fuel pump relay if okay-check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,cap and rotor,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it and keep testing

If both fuel and spark is present-check the valve and ignition timing, this will lead you to problems
with compression and valves opening and closing at the wrong time/broken or jumped timing
belt/chain.
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Thursday, June 23rd, 2011 AT 3:32 AM
Tiny
ZACHARYWORRELL
  • MEMBER
Ok I tryed that and they all fire. I replaced the water pump and and thermastat. Due to the discovery of rust in my raidiator. It runs fine intown driving but I took a 30 min dive and it all came back. I lost rpms. Could barely start it. When I got it going I had to keep the foot on the floor to keep up around 3000 rpms but would die if I let off. I had to at one point get it to about 4500 rpms to even do fifty. Like I said I changed the icm and the only aftermarket thing is a hypertech programer. I'm really at the end of my mechanic skills now. Not sure y the loss in rpms for an extended drive but normal for intown driving. Stop and go. When it starts to lose rpms it shutters like its missfiring it will idle fine in this situation but only after its cold then when in drive it barely moves and needs a ton of rpms to get going. Any thoughts?
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Tuesday, June 28th, 2011 AT 3:45 AM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Check/Test the idle air control valve, EGR valve and the throttle position and mass airflow sensors
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Tuesday, June 28th, 2011 AT 7:07 AM

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