Assuming that you checked for a spark at oneof the spark plug wires, you now need to check for a spark at the coil tower. You can do this by disconnecting the coil wire from the distributor and checking for a spark at the end of that wire. If you don't get a spark there it could be a bad coil wire, so check a second time using a different coil wire [if you have or can get one].
If you still don't get a spark: use a voltmeter to probe the GRY/BLK (gray with a black stripe) wire in the ignition coil wiring harness. The meter should read 12v. If not, check for an open in the GRY/BLK wire.
(I am assuming the Auto Shutdown Relay is good since you get fuel when the engine cuts off and the Auto Shutdown Relay also sends power to the ignition coil).
If you got 12v, we have to check to see if the coil is getting a switching signal from the pcm. Use a voltmeter or testlight to probe the BLK/GRY (black with a gray stripe) wire in the ignition coil wiring harness. The BLACK terminal of the voltmeter should be used to probe the connector and the RED terminal connected to the POS of the battery. Crank the engine over as if you're trying to start it, the 12v display should flash on and off the whole time your partner is cranking the engine.
The Test Light flashed On and Off: This is means that the Power Control Module (Fuel Injection Computer) is activating the Ignition Coil and since the Ignition Coil is not Sparking. The Ignition Coil is BAD. Replace the Ignition Coil.
The Test Light DID NOT flash On and Off: The most likely cause of this missing Switching Signal is either an Open Short in the wiring between the PCM and the Ignition Coil's connector or the PCM (Powertrain Control Module = Fuel Injection Computer) is BAD (although this is a rare thing).
Thursday, June 27th, 2013 AT 4:14 PM