Ignition switch? The ignition switch is loose?

Good morning,

It sounds like you need to change the key cylinder and the switch. There may be a short internally not turning off the alarm and that would cause the battery to go dead overnight.

Roy

Procedure

The tilt and standard column (4) have been designed to be serviced as an assembly; without wiring, switches, shrouds, steering wheel, etc. Most steering column components can be serviced without removing the steering column from the vehicle.

Safety goggles should be worn at all times when working on steering columns.

To service the steering wheel, switches or airbag, Refer to Restraints and follow all WARNINGS and CAUTIONS.

Warning: the airbag system is a sensitive, complex electro-mechanical unit. Before attempting to diagnose, remove or install the airbag system components you must first disconnect and isolate the battery negative (ground) cable. Then wait two minutes for the system capacitor to discharge. Failure to do so could result in accidental deployment of the airbag and possible personal injury. The fasteners, screws, and bolts, originally used for the airbag components, have special coatings and are specifically designed for the airbag system. They must never be replaced with any substitutes. Anytime a new fastener is needed, replace with the correct fasteners provided in the service package or fasteners listed in the parts books.

CAUTION: Do not hammer on steering column shaft. This may cause damage to the shaft or bearing.

CAUTION: Do not attempt to remove the pivot bolts to disassemble the tilting mechanism.

The ignition key must be in the key cylinder for cylinder removal. The key cylinder must be removed first before removing ignition switch.

1. Remove the negative (ground) cable from the battery.
2. Disable the airbag.
3. Remove the lower and upper shrouds.
4. Remove key cylinder.
5. Disconnect the lower clockspring connectors.
6. Remove the wire retainer from the tilt lever bracket

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7. Remove the tilt lever mounting screws to gain access to the ignition switch (1) mounting screws.

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8. For columns without tilt remove the bracket (2) to gain access to the ignition switch mounting screws (2).

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9. Disconnect the electrical connector at rear of ignition switch (1).
10. Remove ignition switch mounting screw (2).
11. Using a small screwdriver, push on locking tab and remove switch from steering column.

I believe the part number is---

5018702AA

As far as directions check out the guides below. Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what happens.

Sounds like the typical symptom of burned contacts inside the ignition switch. I have no idea what a "key cup" or "starter lock interrupter" are. Those sound like GM terms.

Another common problem, when the only symptom is it won't crank, is a cracked cam on the end of the lock cylinder. The dealer has an inexpensive repair kit for that.

Caradiodoc

Before you spend more money on parts, do you have a test light? If so, check for voltage on the 12 gauge red wire. That circuit feeds the switch contacts that feed:

1) the starter circuit on the 18 gauge yellow wire.

2) the radio, signals, power outlet, and wipers on the 12 gauge black / white wire, (fuses 5-8).

3) automatic shutdown relay, fuel pump relay, cruise control switches, chime module or buzzer, overhead console, and message center, (fuses 9-12).

The blower fan is on a separate circuit and switch contact. The pink / black 12 gauge wire is the feed; the black / orange 12 gauge goes to the blower.

If there's no voltage on the red wire, check fuse # 3 under the hood. It's a 40 amp cartridge.

See how far you get with this info. I used a '94 truck manual. The switch is the same as on a '96, but the wire colors could be different. I'll be back later tonight.

Caradiodoc

There are screws to remove from the bottom of the trim covers on the steering column, then the upper and lower halves unsnap and can be removed. Look straight down from the normal driving position toward the cylinder and you'll see a small silver roll pin about 3/16" in diameter. Use a punch or small screwdriver to push that roll pin in. It will go in about 1/8" to 1/4". That will let the cylinder pop out. I can't remember for sure but I think you need to have the key inserted.

Once the cylinder is out, look at the cam on the end of it. Sometimes those crack. The symptom is everything works except it will not turn the ignition switch quite far enough to crank the engine. The dealer has a repair kit for that but you don't have to worry about that if you're installing a new cylinder.

Slide the new cylinder in, insert the key, then turn it to crank the engine. Turning it all the way will push the roll pin out to lock it in place.

Removing lock cylinder
remove ignition switch
with key in switch and in lock position
depress lock cylinder retaining pin using a small screw driver
rotate to OFF position
lock should now be unseated from ignition switch
rotate cylinder counterclockwise to lock and remove key and remove lock cylinder

If you have a tilt column unscrew the tilt lever and then remove the upper and lower covers around the top of the column.

Remove 3 tamperproof torx screws and remove ignition switch from column.

With key inserted and switch in the LOCK posiiton, depress lock cylinder retaining pin with a small screwdriver. Rotate cylinder to the OFF position and this will unseat the cylinder from the switch. Rotate back to LOCK position and remove key, then separate cylinder from switch.

If it says power wagon, that is an old manual (pre 83). I learned to drive in a 78 power wagon. Dodge has come out with the PW package on the 2010 model year, but that is it.

As far as you switch, it should be located on the bottom of the steering column. If you have the trim off the steering column, there is a rod that runs from the tumbler to the switch. Follow that and it will lead you to the switch.

Let me know what you find.

Joe