1993 Chevrolet Blazer Transmission

Tiny
LANOLINININ
  • MEMBER
  • 1993 CHEVROLET BLAZER
  • 4.3L
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 75,000 MILES
My transmission will not shift unless I let off the gas pedal. I changed the transmission because the fluid smelled burnt and assumed that would fix it. The problem persist and I don't know where else to check. Need help ASAP please.
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Thursday, February 13th, 2014 AT 6:04 PM

29 Replies

Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • EXPERT
Have you checked the exhaust system for excessive back pressure?
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Thursday, February 13th, 2014 AT 7:01 PM
Tiny
LANOLINININ
  • MEMBER
No but the donut gasket on the passenger side needs to be replaced.
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Thursday, February 13th, 2014 AT 7:15 PM
Tiny
LANOLINININ
  • MEMBER
I wasn't sure if a sensor could cause the problem?
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Thursday, February 13th, 2014 AT 7:50 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • EXPERT
Have a back pressure test done on the exhaust. Do you have any codes in the computer?
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Thursday, February 13th, 2014 AT 11:14 PM
Tiny
LANOLINININ
  • MEMBER
I have not hooked it up to a tech 2 to find out but no dash lights are on at all. The blazer had been sitting for about a year and it seems it's having more electrical issues. For example I changes plugs and wires one of the two coolant temp sensors and I have a problem with the radiator cooling fan running constantly, after I changed the fan clutch and I'm thinkin that is the relay but haven't been able to check it yet, that is why I was leaning tward electrical. I did not know that exist pressure played such an important role in the trans. Oporation.
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Thursday, February 13th, 2014 AT 11:45 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • EXPERT
Yes too much back pressure will make the computer think its under a false load and not want to shift to the next gear. So what fan is running constantly it has a thermal fan clutch?
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Friday, February 14th, 2014 AT 7:17 AM
Tiny
LANOLINININ
  • MEMBER
It is the cooling fan that is connected to the water pump, I changed the fan clutch and there is no change. I changed the coolant temp. Sensor that controls the gauge in the instrument cluster but their is one that sends signals to the computer, should I change that or is there a relay I should check? And I believe you are right about the exhaust the converter is plugged I was told by a local mechanic. So thanks for that saved a lot of hassle there, and once the fan clutch runs properly the blazer will be problem free.
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Friday, February 14th, 2014 AT 9:41 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • EXPERT
Had a feeling about the plugged cat glad you found the problem. As far as the f a n goes is the fan clutch thermal or is there wires going to it.
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Friday, February 14th, 2014 AT 5:34 PM
Tiny
LANOLINININ
  • MEMBER
Ok the guy I took it to was also sure about the cat being plugged but once removed the same transmission problem persist any other ideas?
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Saturday, February 15th, 2014 AT 2:36 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • EXPERT
Check for codes and let me know if you have any codes?
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Saturday, February 15th, 2014 AT 10:42 PM
Tiny
LANOLINININ
  • MEMBER
I did a jumper wire to get the codes up and all I had was code 12 which from my understanding is a code to acknowledge that the system is working. I still have no power in acceleration and the vehicle does not want to shift unless the the gas pedal is released. Now here is everything I have done. Changed tranny and torque converter, changed throttle positioning sensor, removed catalytic converter which looked to be fairly new as far as being used, the blazer has been sitting in weathered conditions for roughly 1.5 years and was not driven much the previous 7years it has 75,000 miles on it. In idle the vehicle seems to be fine even when revved in park, but when driving it has the problem stated above, also I changed plugs and wires battery air filter oil and oil filter and fan clutch. The four wheel drive works speedo works, not sure If the odometer works afraid to blow up the tranny I put in it. I did not change the distributor cap or rotor. I believe this is everything I can think of, about and what has been done, maybe this will help, I just can't figure it out.
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Sunday, February 16th, 2014 AT 6:55 AM
Tiny
LANOLINININ
  • MEMBER
I am going to check my ignition timing and fuel pressure I'm thinking it is the ignition timing now, the lack of power when driving and it will backfire also, if you have any other suggestion please let me know.
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Sunday, February 16th, 2014 AT 11:36 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • EXPERT
Yeah for sure check the timing and let me know what you find sounds like a good plan.
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Sunday, February 16th, 2014 AT 1:20 PM
Tiny
LANOLINININ
  • MEMBER
Ok I finally made some time to try and fix this blazer cylinder compression is good engine and ignition timing is spot on and I am still having power loss and shifting problems, I got frustrated and took the heads off to inspect inside the engine and everything looks in great shape just like it should at 75000 miles. Any suggestions and could this be a brake problem possibly sticking or dragging? Everything besides the alternator, ignition module and pickup coil are new but from what I understand the pickup coil and module either work or don't and the engine idles great, everything besides the fuel pump is new in the fuel delivery system, I am not sure where to look now besides my brakes. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Friday, February 28th, 2014 AT 6:45 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • EXPERT
Have you had the battery and alternator tested yet?
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Sunday, March 2nd, 2014 AT 9:29 AM
Tiny
LANOLINININ
  • MEMBER
Battery holds a charge and alternator is outing out 14.7 volts when engine is running, I have even tried to advance the timing which gave it a better idle but still no change when driving. Also the fuel pressure is within specification. I took off the tires today to take a look at the brakes and I found the rear drums spun with little drag but the front disc brakes have little wear from what I seen without taking off the caliper but they look old and the rotor or hub assembly whichever you want to call it looks like their is carbon or some kind of build up in spots and it does not look as though the pads are contacting the rotor with the complete surface also the front have a lot of drag but equally on both sides I can spin the tires on the front with difficulty but they stop almost immediately when I remove my hand. I now know that the fuel delivery system in 100% the ignition timing is right, the exhaust is not clogged and looks fairly new, all my vacuum lines are in great shape and connected along with the wires they all are in good shape. Their are no codes still and I'm running out of things to look at. I am not sure if the ignition module in the distributed can malfunction and cause this problem or the brakes but I have to be close just about everything is new, I appreciate all the help you have been giving me and I hate to ask but is their any other suggestions?
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Sunday, March 2nd, 2014 AT 5:42 PM
Tiny
LANOLINININ
  • MEMBER
I and also my egr valve did not look to bad on the inside but I'm not sure if it operates, if the egr valve does not operate would that throw a code?
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Sunday, March 2nd, 2014 AT 6:01 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • EXPERT
Usually it will set a code 32 for the egr if there is a problem. I wish you had a scan tool that couldread live data so we could see the map sensor readings.
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Sunday, March 2nd, 2014 AT 9:27 PM
Tiny
LANOLINININ
  • MEMBER
I will check with a guy I work with he may have one that I can use and that will work for that year, the map sensor is about 60 bucks that would be cool if it was my problem. So chances are my brakes are not my issue I'm guessing?
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Monday, March 3rd, 2014 AT 5:21 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • EXPERT
That shouldnt cause the having to let up on the gas for it to shift.
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Monday, March 3rd, 2014 AT 6:48 AM

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