You may have to use a vacuum bleeder, can you get one of these?
October, 19, 2013 AT 8:45 PM
Would hAve to try to rent one I guess is there any other way
October, 19, 2013 AT 9:05 PM
That should say vacuum. You can try gravity bleeding, but if conventional bleeding has not works, that may not be much help either.
October, 19, 2013 AT 9:26 PM
Will try Renting one and gofrom there Will lt you know how it turns out thanks
October, 19, 2013 AT 11:39 PM
Ok, good luck
October, 20, 2013 AT 5:58 PM
From hmac300 -
Two different types here are instructions for both.
Externally Mounted Slave Cylinder
Remove slave cylinder from transmission bellhousing. Using a 3/32" diameter punch, remove pin that holds hydraulic line in slave cylinder. Remove hydraulic line from slave cylinder.
Place hydraulic line into container for waste fluid. Hold slave cylinder so hydraulic line port is at highest point. Fill slave cylinder through hydraulic line port with DOT 3 brake fluid. Gently push on slave cylinder push rod to expel all air.
When all air has been expelled, install slave cylinder. Remove clutch master cylinder reservoir cap. While maintaining fluid level in reservoir, observe hydraulic line until all air has been expelled and a steady stream of fluid is flowing.
Install reservoir cap. Install hydraulic line and retaining pin. Top off brake fluid. With transmission in Neutral and parking brake set, start vehicle. Shift vehicle into Reverse. If gears grind, check for air in system. Repeat bleeding procedure if necessary. If no air is found and gears grind, clutch components may be defective or worn out.
Internally Mounted Slave Cylinder
Clean area around reservoir cap. Fill reservoir with DOT 3 brake fluid. Place hose on bleeder screw to prevent brake fluid from entering bellhousing. Loosen bleeder screw and maintain fluid level in reservoir.
Fluid and bubbles will flow from hose attached to slave cylinder bleeder screw. Close bleeder screw when fluid stream is free of air bubbles. Ensure fluid level is correct and install reservoir cap.
Place light pressure on clutch pedal and open bleeder screw. Maintain pressure until pedal contacts floor. Close bleeder screw while pedal is fully depressed. DO NOT allow pedal to return before bleeder screw is fully closed. Recheck fluid level.
Test system operation by starting vehicle, depressing clutch and placing gearshift in Reverse. No grinding should be heard or felt with clutch pedal within 1/2" (13 mm) of floor. If noise is heard, check for air in system. Repeat bleeding procedure if necessary.
October, 30, 2013 AT 2:47 AM
I vacume bled the clutch and only have a half clutch pedal what else can I do
November, 6, 2013 AT 3:19 PM
Like the last reply said there are two different types internal or external so you have to follow the procedures in last reply. However what you might try is to gravity bleed the system for a about 5 minutes then close the bleeder screw or nipple then bleed with either a vacuum or power bleeder in the sequence that is described above for whatever type of slave you have. It could be a bad master or slave as well though.
November, 12, 2013 AT 12:22 AM
I would first try re bleeding the master cyl, ensure that the rear seal is not leaking in the master as it may be drawing in air and if this is the case you will not get a good pedal.
November, 12, 2013 AT 7:09 PM
Put a new master cylinder for the clutch new lines all new parts still only half pedal should I put longer rod on the pedal and replace the pedal assembly that's the only thing I have not done puzzles me thanks for input