System will not charge

Yes the wiring needs to be tested the green and red wire goes over to the voltage regulator. Here is a couple guides that will help you get the problem fixed. The voltage regulators are separate on this truck on some models.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

Here is a wiring diagram (below)

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers

OK his some more on the charging system problem. I took my meter and check all the wiring, the fuses have been removed before I bought the truck. I have load tested the charging system and still now power coming through. I took the leads of the Alternator that go to the starter rely, they should be hot all the time. I removed them and check for power no power while it was running from the alternator. I pulled the alternator and check all the wiring they have a clear path. But I check the rest of the Alternator nothing

I posted the wire diagram for the alternator there are 3 power inputs coming into the alternator from a fuseable link. See if you have those three power inputs into the alternator.

I have the same diagram as the one you have sent me. The fuss able links where all removed some time ago and the wires where routed back to the same points less the fusses. The system has worked ever scent I have owned the truck, until lately it will not charge the battery up. I cut the power lines from the Alternator and fired the truck up and check the out put no out put from any point of the Alternator. So I am figuring the Alternator is got to be the trouble. I am going to have it bench check one more time or just get a new Alternator. This getting nuts. Its a simple system almost like a two wire Alternator. Oh well.

With everything hooked up was there power going to those three wires at the alternator?If not you have to start by getting power there and adding a fuseable link also.

The two lines you see on the schismatic that come off the alternator they go to the starter rely from there one goes to the battery and one to the starter. So between the alternator and rely they our hot all the time so long ass they our still connected to the battery. But when you start the engine and load the electrical system the alternator does not go up in charge. If you remove those cables so they our not pulling from the battery there is no power on the lines, being this is the lines that charge the battery there should be power there while the alternator is running but there is no power. You pull the alternator off the truck to bench test it you get 13.8 volts on the bench test. All test our done with a full charged battery. So I am assuming there has to be a short in the alternator I will have it check one more time.I think it will have to be the alternator every thing else checks out OK. But why on a bench it shows OK? But when you connect it to the truck nothing?

Without power going into the alternator it wont charge also with the key in the run position and engine off do those three wires off the fuseable link in the wire diagram I posted have battery voltage going into the alternator?Sounds like you have no power to one or all those wires.

Yes the three wires have power. But still no generation from the alternator. Its just about like a two wire alternator it so simple thats why I figuring some tester have to be wrong.

Are the two white wires with the black strip connected together?

OK this has been one crazy ride. I figured the problem out and even the ford tec at the plant could not understand what would cause the problem. If you look at the diagram you will see dash indicator light look real close and you will see it is fussed if this fuss blows it cuts out the charging system all together. I understand that most new cars our running this same system, if you have a dash light indicator and it goes out it will not send the signal to the alternator to charge and the simple way to check it is turn on your ignition switch and if the light does not come on and the alternator does not want to charge check it it could the problem. I remember working on a Mercedes Benz truck with the same problem and the repair manuals do not say a word about it after 2 alternators and hours of hair pulling we found the problem the light in the dash indicate r was out. So remember that a lot of new cars our coming out with this set up. Thanks for your help.

I have a 1992 Ford 150 300 6cyl not charging alt. Batt. Starter relay new and have been tested, I know you not supost to unhook battery like on older trucks but when I do the engine dies I thought the alternator was bad but it tested good. Any help thanks

Start by measuring the voltages on the wires. Yellow must have 12 volts all the time. If it's missing, look for a blown 15 amp fuse. The green / red wire should have around 2.0 volts when the ignition switch is on and the engine is not running. If that one is missing AND the warning light is not on, check the wiring back to the ignition switch. The white wire will have somewhere around 6 volts when the generator is working.

If those voltages are present, double-check the voltage on the large black output wire. If it is higher than battery voltage, there is a break in that wire. Many newer vehicles use a large bolt-in fuse in that circuit.

Please reply directly to my personal e-mail if you have more questions. This site is going through changes and right now I'm not getting the automated messages telling me when you post a reply. Include the year and model of your vehicle, the problem, and your user name.

Caradiodoc@frontier. Com

Electrical problem
1992 Ford F150 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

I have a 1992 Ford F150 inline 6. The truck was running great when I stopped at a friendà à às house for a few minuets. When I went to leave the truck would not start, all I got was a click from the solenoid when I turned the key. After replacing the solenoid and the starter, the truck would start and stay running. But now the amp light is on and the truck is running off the battery power, the battery is not being charged by the alternator. Below are the things I have tried:

- Replaced starter. Old one tested bad at advance auto parts. Truck will start.
- Replace solenoid with one that was in the glove box of the truck when I bought it.
- Replaced the alternator. Original tested bad at AutoZone.
- Put original solenoid back in.
- Replaced battery terminal connections.
- Replaced battery with a DieHard from Sears. Original battery (tested bad at Sears) was 10 years old and undersized for the truck.
- Had new alternator tested again at AutoZone. Tested Good. The store gave me a new alternator that also tested good.
- Took truck in to AutoZone to have them run a diagnostic on it. Test showed that the voltage regulator was bad. Took alternator back inside it tested good.
- Belts look good.
- Inspected all wires for breaks and corrosion. All look good from what I could see.

I am all out of ideas and at my wits end. Any and all help is greatly appreciated

See my profile, Imma Jeep CJ Kinda Guy, That must, out of desperation, work on lesser quality vehicles than my JEEPS!.....Family and Friends...alot!

I do not know your rig and maybe it's "Particulars"

If CJs were suddenly removed from the face of the earth.....A Ford, would become my ride.

About a week ago, dealing with Step-Daughters Exploder (ragged previously by her brother). She had an alternator issue.

Seems that when your "Radio" system requires larger diameter wires than needed to make jumper cables to start an "Abrams Tank".......Somehow her alternator couldn't handle it..........and it would "chargey, no morey"

On that pitiful rig, the STUD on the back (w/ nut and wire) welded itself till the plastic insulator melted and the whole little assembly......sorta fell off.

This wire somehow made its way back to the battery (I had no way of knowing, for sure, since she left her CHILTON MANUAL at home) So I was just winging it, from experience.

We (I) deemed Mr. Alternator useless, and we put a BRAND NEW OUT OF THE BOX one on.

Still no CHARGEY.....Just Battery Voltage.

I tested for this in 2 places with my VOLTMETER (OFF and RUNNING)

.......POS and NEG posts at the battery

........NEG at battery and to that "STUD/ NUT/ and WIRE" on the rear of the ALTERNATOR.

This told me nothing was LEAVING the Alternator (Had it been over 13.8 to 15 Volts, I would have said there was some thing in the wiring and the alternator was good)

Since I got nothing, we pulled the BRAND NEW ONE off and took it back.......Test showed it was bad too, So we got another.

Moral of story....NEW STUFF CAN BE BAD, TOO!!!

All is good now!.....If thats not your problem, and yours is set up like hers on the back, test it there 1st.

Check your fuses---all see owner manual for "other" locations.

Fusable links could also be an issue.....A Repair Manual may show fusable link locations........Troubleshooting section in it CAN BE VERY HELPFUL!!!!

I will show you below----Jeep and Older Ford Solenoid set-ups........use it as a guideline....I know yours is more modern!............Just do the stuff that makes sense.....about the solenoid, connections, and fusable links!!!

PASTING

If the following sounds like I'm fixing somebody else...I WAS!!!

You should find what you need below....I can answer almost all of your CJ questions.

Imma slow hunt and pecker....got this to you fast as I could.

I CAN AND WILL ASSIST YOU FELLOW CJer.....I am here for your long haul!........Just "reply to question"

See my profile and other CJ 5 and CJ 7 answers I have given. The CJ 5 and CJ 7 Forums may provide you with additional info about your Jeep!

YES---You should have a reduced voltage there!

The only time you get FULL BATTERY VOLTAGE to the coil is during "CRANKING"

During cranking...Full 12V + ......will override the RESISTANCE WIRE (reduced voltage) Which begins, basically, at the "ON" position of your Key/ Ignition and travels to your coil. This Resistance Wire feeds your coil a reduced voltage all the time, after you start up.

This TEMPORARY OVERRIDE occurs because "I" terminal on your SOLENOID is "HOT" only while cranking...it dies off when you release the key.....this action gives a better "Jolt of Juice". to the coil..while the Starter is Robbing power

"I" terminal is a direct feed to the coil (full battery voltage).....only momentarily....only till you crank up.

Your Ignition system does not need "FULL JUICE" to run it....On older stuff, Such as My '46 Willys, this prolongs Points' Life.

After Mr. Jeep Starts and you release the key...He reverts back to the reduced voltage.

Your "Built In" resistance wire takes the place of a COMMON/ OLD STYLE Ceramic Resistor.

NOW, are we having issues or troubles because of this, or are you just concerned because it "Just did not make sense"?

Give me something Challanging!

I can help you with MOST ANY CJ ISSUE

Seriously, I am a member like you...I try to give answers a 1st grader can understand! I will work with you on a more personal level, and I try not to throw out Super-Technical Mumbo-Jumbo....I also can share pics and explanations of MOSTLY MECHANICAL MODIFICATIONS (I invented or made, to make my Jeeps "user friendly")

Follow POS BATT CABLE, It will end up here, at the SOLENOID, looks vary, function is the same.

If you are a CJ...Your stuff should be hooked up to the same terminals I show below....Pay attention to "S" and Battery Cable....They should be side by side

"FORD TYPE" SOLENOID SYSTEM, YOUR ACCES., MAY VARY

1) POSITIVE CABLE FROM BATTERY

2) OUT TO STARTER MOTOR

3) ON MY JEEP, THIS GOES TO THE ALTERNATOR

4) THIS FEEDS MY FUSEBOX (ALL OF MY ACCESSORIES)......THE WHOLE JEEP, LIGHTS TOO.

5) "S" WIRE IS FROM KEY, 12V ONLY WHILE YOU ARE "CRANKING"

THIS WIRE ACTIVATES THE SOLENOID'S ELECTROMAGNET, WHICH IN TURN, CONNECTS---A & B INTERNALLY (ONLY THE 2 LARGE GAUGE CABLES CAN HANDLE THE AMPERAGE THE STARTER "PULLS").

WHEN THE SOLENOID IS ACTIVATED, IT THROWS 12V TO STARTER USING THE LARGE GAUGE CABLES (1) POS FROM BATT--THRU SOLENOID INTERNAL CONNECTION--(2) TO THE STARTER, WHILE KEY IS IN "CRANKING" MODE.

THIS IS THE TOTAL REASON FOR A SOLENOID, BECAUSE IT WOULD NOT BE PRACTICAL, TO RUN THE HEAVY CABLES TO AND FROM YOUR KEY SWITCH.

6) "I" WIRE (OPTIONAL), FEEDS COIL "FULL 12V", ONLY WHILE "CRANKING", AFTER YOU RELEASE THE KEY, THE COIL REVERTS BACK TO REDUCED VOLTAGE, SUPPLIED BY YOUR KEY IN THE "RUN" POSITION.

7) "MOUNT" GROUND, UNIT MUST HAVE A GOOD GROUND (BATT. TO ENGINE, ENGINE TO FRAME, FRAME TO BODY [ALL MUST CONNECT, SOMEHOW] )

(3 & 4, ON MY JEEP) ARE FUSABLE LINKS, ALL ARE NOT MARKED, MY #3 IS, #4 IS NOT....ITS SORT OF A "WIRE" FUSE.

ON MY JEEPS, THEY START AT THE SOLENOID, TRAVEL 8 INCHES OR SO THEN CONNECT TO THE "REAL WIRE" IT PROTECTS....OTHER VEHICLES MAY HAVE FUSABLE LINKS IN DIFFERENT LOCATIONS.

IF THEY ARE GOOD, TUGGING ON THEM WILL BE JUST LIKE A WIRE, WHEN THEY ARE "BURNED UP", THEY WILL STRETCH OUT LKE A RUBBER BAND

Please respond...Read my profile...Did I misunderstand your question?

The Medic

Electrical problem
1992 Ford F150 V8 Two Wheel Drive Automatic

I had my alternator checked twice it showed good both times but it is not charging when it is on the truck. I recently replaced the solenoid. Could I have done something there to affect it. I also just replaced the starter.

Check and test the fusible links on the starter relay

Electrical problem
1993 Ford F150 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

hi I own a 1993 ford f 150 my alternator wont charge my battery it a new battery and and a new alternator im stumped any bit of help will be helpful

Check the fusible link at the starter solinoid, next to the battery. And all connections there!

Electrical problem
1993 Ford F150 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Manual 200000 miles

My truck is not charging and I have changed alternator and nothing. I have three wires going into one fusible link. Could this be the starter?

Hi if it is not chargeing it has to be in the charge system. Check plug at alt check all fuse links check voltage regulator. Check all fuses good luck feel free to write again billymac