See my profile, Imma Jeep CJ Kinda Guy, That must, out of desperation, work on lesser quality vehicles than my JEEPS!.....Family and Friends...alot!
I do not know your rig and maybe it's "Particulars"
If CJs were suddenly removed from the face of the earth.....A Ford, would become my ride.
About a week ago, dealing with Step-Daughters Exploder (ragged previously by her brother). She had an alternator issue.
Seems that when your "Radio" system requires larger diameter wires than needed to make jumper cables to start an "Abrams Tank".......Somehow her alternator couldn't handle it..........and it would "chargey, no morey"
On that pitiful rig, the STUD on the back (w/ nut and wire) welded itself till the plastic insulator melted and the whole little assembly......sorta fell off.
This wire somehow made its way back to the battery (I had no way of knowing, for sure, since she left her CHILTON MANUAL at home) So I was just winging it, from experience.
We (I) deemed Mr. Alternator useless, and we put a BRAND NEW OUT OF THE BOX one on.
Still no CHARGEY.....Just Battery Voltage.
I tested for this in 2 places with my VOLTMETER (OFF and RUNNING)
.......POS and NEG posts at the battery
........NEG at battery and to that "STUD/ NUT/ and WIRE" on the rear of the ALTERNATOR.
This told me nothing was LEAVING the Alternator (Had it been over 13.8 to 15 Volts, I would have said there was some thing in the wiring and the alternator was good)
Since I got nothing, we pulled the BRAND NEW ONE off and took it back.......Test showed it was bad too, So we got another.
Moral of story....NEW STUFF CAN BE BAD, TOO!!!
All is good now!.....If thats not your problem, and yours is set up like hers on the back, test it there 1st.
Check your fuses---all see owner manual for "other" locations.
Fusable links could also be an issue.....A Repair Manual may show fusable link locations........Troubleshooting section in it CAN BE VERY HELPFUL!!!!
I will show you below----Jeep and Older Ford Solenoid set-ups........use it as a guideline....I know yours is more modern!............Just do the stuff that makes sense.....about the solenoid, connections, and fusable links!!!
If the following sounds like I'm fixing somebody else...I WAS!!!
You should find what you need below....I can answer almost all of your CJ questions.
Imma slow hunt and pecker....got this to you fast as I could.
I CAN AND WILL ASSIST YOU FELLOW CJer.....I am here for your long haul!........Just "reply to question"
See my profile and other CJ 5 and CJ 7 answers I have given. The CJ 5 and CJ 7 Forums may provide you with additional info about your Jeep!
YES---You should have a reduced voltage there!
The only time you get FULL BATTERY VOLTAGE to the coil is during "CRANKING"
During cranking...Full 12V + ......will override the RESISTANCE WIRE (reduced voltage) Which begins, basically, at the "ON" position of your Key/ Ignition and travels to your coil. This Resistance Wire feeds your coil a reduced voltage all the time, after you start up.
This TEMPORARY OVERRIDE occurs because "I" terminal on your SOLENOID is "HOT" only while cranking...it dies off when you release the key.....this action gives a better "Jolt of Juice". to the coil..while the Starter is Robbing power
"I" terminal is a direct feed to the coil (full battery voltage).....only momentarily....only till you crank up.
Your Ignition system does not need "FULL JUICE" to run it....On older stuff, Such as My '46 Willys, this prolongs Points' Life.
After Mr. Jeep Starts and you release the key...He reverts back to the reduced voltage.
Your "Built In" resistance wire takes the place of a COMMON/ OLD STYLE Ceramic Resistor.
NOW, are we having issues or troubles because of this, or are you just concerned because it "Just did not make sense"?
Give me something Challanging!
I can help you with MOST ANY CJ ISSUE
Seriously, I am a member like you...I try to give answers a 1st grader can understand! I will work with you on a more personal level, and I try not to throw out Super-Technical Mumbo-Jumbo....I also can share pics and explanations of MOSTLY MECHANICAL MODIFICATIONS (I invented or made, to make my Jeeps "user friendly")
Follow POS BATT CABLE, It will end up here, at the SOLENOID, looks vary, function is the same.
If you are a CJ...Your stuff should be hooked up to the same terminals I show below....Pay attention to "S" and Battery Cable....They should be side by side
"FORD TYPE" SOLENOID SYSTEM, YOUR ACCES., MAY VARY
1) POSITIVE CABLE FROM BATTERY
2) OUT TO STARTER MOTOR
3) ON MY JEEP, THIS GOES TO THE ALTERNATOR
4) THIS FEEDS MY FUSEBOX (ALL OF MY ACCESSORIES)......THE WHOLE JEEP, LIGHTS TOO.
5) "S" WIRE IS FROM KEY, 12V ONLY WHILE YOU ARE "CRANKING"
THIS WIRE ACTIVATES THE SOLENOID'S ELECTROMAGNET, WHICH IN TURN, CONNECTS---A & B INTERNALLY (ONLY THE 2 LARGE GAUGE CABLES CAN HANDLE THE AMPERAGE THE STARTER "PULLS").
WHEN THE SOLENOID IS ACTIVATED, IT THROWS 12V TO STARTER USING THE LARGE GAUGE CABLES (1) POS FROM BATT--THRU SOLENOID INTERNAL CONNECTION--(2) TO THE STARTER, WHILE KEY IS IN "CRANKING" MODE.
THIS IS THE TOTAL REASON FOR A SOLENOID, BECAUSE IT WOULD NOT BE PRACTICAL, TO RUN THE HEAVY CABLES TO AND FROM YOUR KEY SWITCH.
6) "I" WIRE (OPTIONAL), FEEDS COIL "FULL 12V", ONLY WHILE "CRANKING", AFTER YOU RELEASE THE KEY, THE COIL REVERTS BACK TO REDUCED VOLTAGE, SUPPLIED BY YOUR KEY IN THE "RUN" POSITION.
7) "MOUNT" GROUND, UNIT MUST HAVE A GOOD GROUND (BATT. TO ENGINE, ENGINE TO FRAME, FRAME TO BODY [ALL MUST CONNECT, SOMEHOW] )
(3 & 4, ON MY JEEP) ARE FUSABLE LINKS, ALL ARE NOT MARKED, MY #3 IS, #4 IS NOT....ITS SORT OF A "WIRE" FUSE.
ON MY JEEPS, THEY START AT THE SOLENOID, TRAVEL 8 INCHES OR SO THEN CONNECT TO THE "REAL WIRE" IT PROTECTS....OTHER VEHICLES MAY HAVE FUSABLE LINKS IN DIFFERENT LOCATIONS.
IF THEY ARE GOOD, TUGGING ON THEM WILL BE JUST LIKE A WIRE, WHEN THEY ARE "BURNED UP", THEY WILL STRETCH OUT LKE A RUBBER BAND
Please respond...Read my profile...Did I misunderstand your question?
Saturday, September 30th, 2017 AT 9:24 PM